activate and unlock iPhone with 1.1.1

This tutorial assumes that your iPhone has firmware version 1.1.1. If you are unsure, here is how to check: On the emergency dial screen dial *3001#12345#* and tap Versions. Firware version should be 04.01.13_G. If it's 03.14.08_G you have v1.0.2 and need to update it to 1.1.1 first.

Bypass activation and prepare phone for software installation

1. Make sure you have a SIM-card with PIN turned off, and power on your phone (the supplied AT&T card works fine).
2. On the activation screen, slide for emergency and dial: *#301# to make the phone call itself. (If the incoming call dialog quickly disappears but it keeps ringing, just dial 0 (remove *#301# first), and it will call itself)
3. Answer the call, and tap on Hold
4. Phone will call it self again, tap Decline. You will now be returned to the normal dialer.
5. Tap on contacts, and tap the + icon to add a new. The only info you are going to add to this contact are two URL's. To add a URL, tap Add new URL. The first URL is prefs followed by a colon: prefs: and the second is i.unlock.no. Tap Save.
6. Your contact now has two "web pages" - tap on the first one (prefs:). This will take you to the settings dialog. The reason you want this, is because you need to connect to a Wi-Fi network, so tap on Wi-Fi, and get connected to a network, and make sure the icon on top of the screen is indicating that you are connected. While you are in the settings dialog, you should also set: General → Auto-Lock → Never.
7. Now, press the home button, and again, slide for emergency dial 0, Answer the call, Hold and Decline the new call so that you get to the contacts. Tap on your contact (No Name), and this time tap on the other home page, i.unlock.no
8. Safari will launch and show you a webpage. Tap on Tap here to jailbreak your iPhone
9. Phone will return to activation screen and after a few seconds the phone should restart.
10. If the phone does not restart after waiting a full minute, please make sure that you have your phone connected to the computer and try again.
11. When the phone starts again, it should no longer say slide for emergency, but rather Slide to unlock It means it was successfull! Activation is now bypassed, and phone prepared for software installation! (If you are going to use an AT&T SIM, you won't need to do the next step.)

Unlock the SIM-lock on jailbroken 1.1.1

1. Open installer, and install the update if prompted.
2. Go to sources and tap Edit and Add
3. Add this URL: http://i.unlock.no
4. Tap Done and then Refresh
5. Go to Install (at bottom) and scroll down to the Unlocking Tools category and install AnySIM
6. When installed you can press the home button, and you will find a new AnySIM icon on your home screen. Launch it and follow the instructions.
7. The unlocking process will take about 5-10 minutes, in the end it should say it was successful!
8. To clean up your phone, launch Installer and uninstall AnySIM. Then go to Settings → General → Auto-Lock and set it to a prefered value.

Congratulations, you are done!

How to jailbreak 1.1.2 or 1.1.3.

Regardless of whether you want to use 1.1.2 or 1.1.3 firmware, you must start with a jailbroken 1.1.1. Downgrade instructions are available here and Jailbreak for 1.1.1 here. When done continue reading here. Note: even if you want to use 1.1.3, you need to upgrade to and jailbreak 1.1.2 first. You should also unlock your 1.1.2 before upgrading.

Upgrading to 1.1.2

1. On a 1.1.1 phone, open Installer and install OktoPrep located in the Tweaks 1.1.1 category.
2. Download the 1.1.2 firmware file from Apple: iPhone1,1_1.1.2_3B48b_Restore.ipsw (right click link and save target)
3. Connect your phone to your computer and open iTunes on the "summary" page.
4. Hold down the SHIFT key (Windows) or Option/ALT-key (Mac) on your keyboard while clicking on the Upgrade button (not the restore button!). A file browsing dialog should appear, and you must select the firmware file you downloaded in the previous step.
5. While the phone is upgrading, download the 1.1.2 jailbreak archive and extract the files to your computer.
6. If you don't already have Java on your computer, you need to download and install Java runtime first. If you are unsure, check the jailbreak.jar file in the archive you extracted previously - it should have an icon with a coffee cup
7. When your phone is done upgrading, and shows the Slide for emergency screen, you need to launch the jailbreak java application on your computer. Windows users double click on the windows.bat file, while Mac users can double click on jailbreak.jar file.
8. An application should appear, with a "Jailbreak" button - click on it and wait while it's jailbreaking. This will take a few minutes, and your phone will restart a few times at the end.
9. Your phone should now show "Slide to unlock" instead of emergency. If it does, everything was successfull.

If are going to use TurboSIM or a similar SIM-adapter you don't need to unlock - it should work right away. If your phone did not have 1.1.2 when you bought it (old bootloader), you can unlock it to work with any sim-card. To do so, install anySIM 1.2.1u located in Utilities category. Open Settings enable Airplane Mode (very important!) (and set Auto lock to never if you haven't already) and then you can launch anySIM and follow the instructions shown.

Important: 1.1.2 has a bug that causes phone/SMS to crash when used in foreign countries. To fix this, you must Install and run iWorld found in the Tweaks (1.1.2) in Installer. Run the application and select your country. When phone has rebooted you can uninstall iWorld.

Upgrading to 1.1.3

This requires that you already have jailbroken 1.1.2. Open Installer, and Install Official 1.1.3 Upgrader found in the System category. This will download the entire 165MB firmware over Wi-Fi, patch it, and upgrade your phone automaticly. So it may take some time - normally 10-30 minutes. When done your phone should reboot directly to a jailbroken 1.1.3 firmware.

A few tweaks

• [1.1.1] If you want to enable the International menu, install Enable International menu which is found in the Unlocking Tools category. This will let you choose keyboards, and set your phone to use your prefered regional settings, like date and phone number formatting. Be alerted though - it looks like Apple haven't finished this feature completely yet (which is probably why it's deactivated) so there may be some issues. In my case Fahrenheit and Celsius is mixed up in the Weather application for instance!
• [1.1.1] By default, the EDGE settings found in Settings → General → Network → EDGE are not saved when phone is restarted. To fix this, install EDGE Settings fix which is found in the Unlocking Tools category..
• If YouTube does not work ("You must first connect to iTunes..."), try to install YouTube activation which is found in the Unlocking Tools category. Also make sure that the phone has correct date.
• If you for some reason need to deliver your phone to Apple (service etc.), i recommend that you revert the unlock first so that they (hopefully) can't see it's been unlocked. Install OneSIM which is found in the Unlocking Tools category, and tap on the new icon it creates to run it. After you are done, do a restore in iTunes.

Fix iPhone Application crashing issue

If you are having trouble with an iPhone application downloaded from the App Store where it opens up and immediately exits (crashes) every time you try to launch it then here are some solutions that you might want to try out to resolve the problem

It appears that the reason for the application crashes that many iPhone users have reported is due to a problem with Digital Rights Management (DRM) that is embedded in each iPhone app installed via the App Store.

There are some solutions that you can try to fix the problem:

Reboot iPhone

Perform a hard reboot of your iPhone, i.e turn your iPhone off completely, by pressing and holding the Sleep/Wake button (on top ) for a few seconds then slide the red slider. Turn it back on by holding the Sleep/Wake button until the Apple logo appears. This can clear potentially problematic data, preventing some type of crashes.

Delete the iPhone Application:

If the above solution does not help, try deleting the application from your iPhone and then re-sync it back to your iPhone.

To delete an application from your iPhone, simply press and hold on the application icon on your iPhone's home screen until it begins to wiggle along with other application icons (just as you would to rearrange them). A small black circle with an "x" on it should appear on the top-left corner of the icon. Tap on the "x" of the iPhone app that is giving you trouble to uninstall it.

When thats done, sync your iPhone with iTunes which should result in the application you just deleted to get synced to your iPhone again.

Few iPhone users have observed that re-downloading the deleted application directly from iPhone's App Store (rather than using iTunes on your computer) also helps in resolving the crashing problem.

Restore iPhone:

If deleting the application or full reboot does not resolve the crashing issue, try performing a restore of your iPhone. Connect it to your Mac or PC and, in iTunes, click the Restore button under the Summary tab. Please do remember restoring the phone will erase contacts, calendars, photos and other data on the phone, but will restore automatically backed-up information including text messages, notes, call history, contact favorites, sound settings, widget settings, etc.

Boost Your iPhone 3G's Signal Strength

We were assuming that Apple's iPhone 3G will automatically fall back to 2G in case there is no 3G coverage for voice and data connections.

But based on complaints from many iPhone 3G users, it appears that iPhone 3G is not quick enough in switching from 3G to 2G which could result in low or no signal. So if you are observing low signal strength on your iPhone, then there is a simple but manual trick to solve the problem.

This comment over at iPhone Atlas reader, w4rmk confirms that iPhone 3G is not quick enough in switching from 3G to 2G.

W4rmk wrote "Yesterday I tried to make a phone call (new iPhone 3G). I was standing outside in the Denver, Colorado area (which has 3G) and the display said “No Signal”. I walked around waiting for a signal to come in for about 5min with no luck. I went into settings and turned off 3G and immediately got 4 bars on the edge network. So the iPhone is failing to switch to edge when there is no 3G connection."

I am a little surprised that iPhone 3G did not switch to 2G automatically.

So in case you observe low or no signal strength on your new iPhone 3G, try turning off 3G manually, this will force iPhone to switch to 2G. It might take few seconds but you could see a boost in your iPhone's signal strength as w4rmk observed. (The assumption here is that you are in an area with good 2G coverage).

iPhone 3G not switching between 3G and 2G quickly could be some technical issue as I have observed similar behavior with other 3G phones as well, lets hope Apple finds a solution, as turning 3G off manually is quite painful.

Battery Life Tips of your iPhone

The iPhone 3G’s battery life is either terrific or terrible, depending on your
point of view. When accessing the 3G network, it gets longer battery life than
any other phone—and yet that’s only 5 hours of talk time, compared with 8
on the original iPhone.
But never mind all that; the point is that if you’re not careful, the iPhone 3G’s
battery might not even make it through a single day without needing a
recharge. So knowing how to scale back its power appetite could come in
extremely handy.
The biggest wolfers of electricity on your iPhone are its screen and its wireless
features. Therefore, you can get longer life from each charge by:
• Dimming the screen. In bright light, the screen brightens (but uses
more battery power). In dim light, it darkens.
You can use this information to your advantage. By covering up the sensor
as you unlock the phone, you force it into a low-power, dim-screen
setting (because the phone believes that it’s in a dark room). Or by holding
it up to a light as you wake it, you get full brightness. In both cases,
you’ve saved all the taps and navigation it would have taken you to find
the manual brightness slider in Settings.
• Turning off 3G. If you don’t see a 3 icon on your iPhone 3G’s status bar,
then you’re not in a 3G hot spot , and you’re not getting any
benefit from the phone’s battery-hungry 3G radio. By turning it off, you’ll
double the length of your iPhone 3G’s battery power, from 5 hours of talk
time to 10.
To do so, from the Home screen, tap SettingsÆGeneralÆNetworkÆ
Enable 3G Off. Yes, this is sort of a hassle, but if you’re anticipating a long
day and you can’t risk the battery dying halfway through, it might be
worth doing. After all, most 3G phones don’t even let you turn off their
3G circuitry.
• Turning off Wi-Fi. From the Home screen, tap SettingsÆWi-FiÆOn/Off.
If you’re not in a wireless hot spot anyway, you may as well stop the thing
from using its radio. Or, at the very least, tell the iPhone to stop searching
for Wi-Fi networks it can connect to..
• Turning off the phone, too. In Airplane mode, you shut off both Wi-Fi
and the cellular radios, saving the most power of all.
• Turning off Bluetooth. If you’re not using a Bluetooth headset, then for
heaven’s sake shut down that Bluetooth radio. In Settings, tap General,
and turn off Bluetooth.
• Turning off GPS. If you won’t be needing the iPhone to track your location,
save it the power required to operate the GPS chip and the other
location circuits. In Settings, tap General, and turn off Location Services.
• Turning off “push” data. If your email, calendar, and address book are
kept constantly synced with your Macs or PCs, then you’ve probably gotten
yourself involved with Yahoo Mail, Microsoft Exchange
or MobileMe . It’s pretty amazing to know that your iPhone is
constantly kept current with the mothership—but all that continual sniffing
of the airwaves, looking for updates, costs you battery power. If you
can do without the immediacy, visit SettingsÆFetch New Data; consider
turning off Push and letting your iPhone check for new information, say,
every 15, 30, or 60 minutes.

iPhone’s existencei

In the first year of the iPhone’s existence, Apple sold 6 million of them;
brought the thing to 70 countries; and inspired an industry of misbegotten
iPhone lookalikes from other companies. By the end of Year
One, you could type iPhone into Google and get 229 million hits.
Now there’s a new iPhone, the iPhone 3G. More importantly, there’s a new
version of the iPhone’s software, called iPhone 2.0. And then there’s the
iPhone App Store, which offers thousands of add-on programs written by
individuals, software companies, and everything in between.
This is huge. Remember how mystified everyone was when Apple called
its music player the iPod—instead of, say, iMusic or iSongs or something?
The reason was that Apple had much bigger plans for the iPod—photos,
videos, documents, and so on. Maybe they should have saved that name
for the iPhone.
Yes, the iPhone is still an iPod. And it’s still the best Internet phone you’ve
ever seen. It shows fully formatted email (with attachments, thank you)
and displays entire Web pages with fonts and design intact. It’s still tricked
out with a tilt sensor, proximity sensor, light sensor, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, and
that amazing multitouch screen.
Therefore, it’s still a calendar, address book, calculator, alarm clock, stopwatch,
stock tracker, traffic reporter, RSS reader, and weather forecaster. It
even stands in for a flashlight and, with the screen off, a pocket mirror.
But now, thanks to the App Store, the iPhone is a fast, wicked fun pocket
computer. All those free or cheap programs can turn it into a medical reference,
musical keyboard, time tracker, remote control, voice recorder, tip
calculator, e-book reader, and so on. And whoa, those games! Hundreds of
them, with smooth 3-D graphics and tilt control.
All of this sends the iPhone’s utility and power through the roof. Calling it
a phone is practically an insul

Replacing the Logic Board of your iPod

When your iPod was young, did life seem so wonderful? A
miracle? Was it beautiful? Magical? That’s because the logic
board was working perfectly. But logic boards are components
like any other, and they go bad from time to time. If yours is
making you clinical, cynical, or fanatical because it’s not so
logical or dependable (in fact, it’s a vegetable), replacing the
logic board is the cure, as we show in this chapter. The cure
to Supertramp, however, we have not yet discovered.

Check the Signs of a Bad Logic Board
The logic board is the brain of your iPod. No joke—your iPod is a miniature
computer. The logic board contains the microprocessor as well as the connections
to the various other components and systems: the battery, the hard drive or flash
memory, the display, the audio, the data ports, and so on. If something goes
wrong with your logic board, it’s not unlike massive head trauma in a human.
A bad logic board reveals itself in different ways. Your iPod might not turn on,
even when you plug it into a charger. If the iPod does turn on, it might show the
sad face or the folder icon, or it might freeze on the Apple logo.
It’s hard to diagnose a bad logic board from the symptoms alone, because
they’re the same symptoms that you get from other problems. Before you
decide that the logic board is bad, be sure to rule out other possible causes.
For instance, if the iPod doesn’t turn on, check out the battery, or if you get
the folder icon, you might want to look into the hard drive or the software.
Restoring your iPod in iTunes might do the trick.
When you’re reasonably convinced that the other components are in good
working order, the logic board looks more and more like the culprit.

To replace the logic board in a first-generation iPod:
1. Open the iPod according to the instructions .
2. Pull the battery from the back of the hard drive. There is adhesive
holding it down.
3. Unplug the battery from the logic board

4. Carefully slide the hard drive from the orange hard drive connector.
5. Pull the hard drive from the iPod .
6. Find the four T6 Torx screws in the logic board. A large piece of rubber covers one of
them. Remove this piece of rubber to expose the fourth screw .
7. With your T6 Torx screwdriver, remove all four screws

4. Carefully slide the hard drive from the orange hard drive connector.
5. Pull the hard drive from the iPod .
6. Find the four T6 Torx screws in the logic board. A large piece of rubber covers one of
them. Remove this piece of rubber to expose the fourth screw .
7. With your T6 Torx screwdriver, remove all four screws

How to use multiple iPods with one computer i

How to use multiple iPods with one computer


Summary
Do you want to use more than one iPod with the same computer? You can! In fact there are a couple of different ways you can do it.

Products Affected
iPod, iTunes 7 for Windows, iTunes 7 for Mac, Windows

Method One
If you share your computer with other people, one solution is to maintain separate user accounts on the computer for each person. This is useful especially if each user has different tastes in music; users can maintain separate, personalized iTunes music libraries and can customize their iPods accordingly.

Mac OS X users:
See "Mac OS X: How to Share a Computer with Other Users" to learn how to set up additional user accounts.

Windows users:
Look in your computer's Help documentation to learn how to set up additional user accounts. To locate this information, do the following:

Click the Start Menu, and then click Help or Help and Support.
Enter new user in the Search field.
Press Return.
If you create multiple user accounts on one computer but want the same music to be available in iTunes for all users, see "iTunes: How to share music between different accounts on a single computer."

Method Two
You may use multiple iPods on a computer without the need to create multiple user accounts. To do this, you can set iTunes to update each iPod with only certain playlists. This method allows you to put all your music on, say, your iPod and keep your iPod shuffle updated with only your workout music. Here's how to do this with iTunes 7:

Create a new iTunes playlist for each iPod that contains all the music that you want to send to that particular iPod. Learn more about how to create playlists here.
Learn how to Sync your iPod, read the iPod Tutorial Steps section.
Note: iTunes for Windows does not support having multiple iPods connected simultaneously.

Method Three
Create a separate iTunes library for each iPod Note: It is important that you make a new iTunes Library file. Do not just make a copy of your existing iTunes Library file. If iTunes is open, quit it.

Mac users: Hold down the Option key while you open iTunes.
Windows users: Hold down the Shift key while you open iTunes.
In the dialog that appears, do the following:
Click Create Library.
Name and save the alternate library file. iTunes opens with your brand new library file.
Open iTunes Preferences.
Click the Advanced tab and then click the General tab.
De-select Copy files to iTunes Music folder when adding to library checkbox if it is selected and click OK. This will prevent iTunes from creating duplicate copies of your existing media files in the new library folder.
Add the specific media files you want on your iPod to iTunes either by dragging them into iTunes or using the Add to Library option in the File menu.
Once you have the iTunes LIbrary just how you want it, connect and sync iPod.
Once the sync is complete, quit iTunes.
Mac users: Hold down the Option key while you open iTunes.
Windows users: Hold down the Shift key while you open iTunes.
Click Choose library.
Choose your original iTunes Library and click Choose (Mac Users) or Open (Windows Users). You can now switch back and forth between the different libraries for different iPods.

source : http://support.apple.com

Check for Drive Compatibility

Of all the many hard drives on the market today, only a few models are iPodcompatible,
while those that work in certain kind of iPods don’t work in others.
You can divide iPod-compatible hard drives into two categories: OEM and
non-OEM drives. OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. An OEM
hard drive, then, is one of the actual hard drives that Apple buys wholesale
and installs in the iPod at the factory. If you’re going to replace your iPod’s
hard drive, you might as well use the same components that Apple does,
maximizing compatibility and minimizing your headache. As you review your options, keep in mind
that you don’t have to put in the exact same hard drive that you take out. Any
OEM hard drive is as good as any other, just as long as it’s compatible with your
generation of iPod.
Non-OEM hard drives don’t come with any factory-made iPod, but they’re
compatible with the iPod nevertheless. What makes non-OEM hard drives


CAPACITY AND TYPE BRAND MODEL NUMBER COMPATIBILITY
4-gigabyte (GB) Microdrive Hitachi HMS360404D5CF00 First- and second-generation iPod mini
Seagate ST640211CF
6-GB Microdrive Hitachi HMS360606D5CF00 Released for the second-generation iPod mini, but also
Seagate ST660211CF works in the first-generation iPod mini
5-GB hard drive Toshiba MK5002MAL First- and second-generation iPods
10-GB hard drive Toshiba MK1003GAL First-, second-, and third-generation iPods
15-GB hard drive Toshiba MK1504GAL Released for the third-generation iPods, but also works in
the fourth-generation monochrome iPod
20-GB hard drive Toshiba MK2003GAH Second-generation iPod
Toshiba MK2004GAL Third- and fourth-generation monochrome iPods, iPod
photo (fourth-generation color iPod)
Toshiba MK2006GAL Fourth-generation monochrome iPod, iPod photo
(fourth-generation color iPod)
30-GB hard drive Toshiba MK3006GAL Released for the iPod photo (fourth-generation
color iPod), but also works in the fourth-generation
monochrome iPod
Toshiba MK3008GAL iPod video (fifth-generation iPod)
40-GB hard drive Toshiba MK4004GAH Third- and fourth-generation monochrome iPods, iPod
photo (fourth-generation color iPod)
Toshiba MK4006GAH Fourth-generation monochrome iPod, iPod photo
(fourth-generation color iPod)
60-GB hard drive Toshiba MK6006GAH Released for the iPod photo, but also works with the
fourth-generation monochrome iPod
Toshiba MK6008GAH iPod video (fifth-generation iPod)
80-GB hard drive Toshiba MK8010GAH iPod video (fifth-generation iPod)

desirable is their greater storage capacity. For instance, you can get 8 GB of
storage in an iPod mini by using a non-OEM hard drive, while you can bump
up your fifth-generation iPod to 100 GB. (The highest from-the-factory ratings
are 6 GB and 80 GB, respectively.) Some non-OEM hard drives are technically
iPod-compatible, but they require hacks before they’re usable.

Scan Your Hard Drive

Scanning your hard drive is, by far, the best way to tell if your iPod is
experiencing hard drive issues. The scan should always be step one when
you suspect that the hard drive is bad. Don’t go out and buy a replacement
drive until you’ve completed the scan. It does you no good to pop in a new
hard drive when the old one wasn’t the problem; imagine your surprise when
the iPod has the same stupid issue after you go to the trouble of replacing the
hard drive.
To scan your hard drive:
1. Put the iPod into diagnostic mode. See Chapter 2 for complete instructions.
2. Use the Forward and Reverse buttons to navigate the menu choices until you get
to HDD Scan.
3. Press the Select button to start the scan.
Make yourself comfortable, because this could take a while. A hard drive
scan sets you back 15 minutes to an hour for most models. Occasionally, it
takes longer.
When the scan finishes, your iPod returns HDD Scan Pass or HDD Scan Fail.
Failure indicates a bad hard drive, so go ahead and replace her. If the hard drive
passes, you need to look elsewhere for the source of your problems. Your iPod’s
logic board is the primary suspect now;

Check the Sign ofof a bad Hardrive of your iPod

Hard drives go bad from wear and tear. The disks, or platters, inside a hard
drive physically spin at an insane rate of speed, which is 3,600 times per minute
on the slow side. Before you’ve used your iPod for five hours, the platters might
have spun a million times. After about a year of regular use, they’ve spun a
billion times. And that’s just with the slowpokes. Faster iPod hard drives spin
4,200 times per minute, while computer hard drives can spin as fast as 7,200,
10,000, or 15,000 times per minute.
How do you know if your iPod’s hard drive is shot? If your iPod shows the sad
iPod face, there’s a good chance that a bad hard drive is the cause. You should
scan the hard drive to make sure.
Occasionally, when you’re loading music to your iPod, it slows down or stops
loading altogether. This might also indicate that your hard drive is bad, but scan
the hard drive before you arrive at that conclusion.
A less subjective way to tell if your hard drive is shot is to put your iPod up
to your ear and listen to it. A bad hard drive often makes a lot of noise, from
a rapid clicking to a kind of grinding. Sometimes this noise is really loud. If
you’ve ever heard it, you know exactly what it sounds like. Marc will never
forget that sound for as long as he lives, because it was the sound of his data
going bye-bye. You know, the data that he didn’t adequately back up.

ReplacingiPod broken screen

Obviously, the
screen on his laser video was working just fine. Hopefully, you
can say the same for the screen on your iPod, but if you can’t,
this chapter is for you. In it, we show you how to remove your
iPod’s broken liquid crystal display (LCD) and install a brandnew one.
Check the Signs of a Bad Screen
A bad screen is fairly easy to diagnose. When you turn on your iPod, you see
what looks like an inkblot in the display. Sometimes it seems to be a large crack
or a flood of ink, while other times it looks more like a little sliver.
Either way, your LCD needs to be replaced. You don’t break open the screen
itself and try to clean up the spilled ink. You just pop out the old screen and
install a new one.

Replace the Screen in
a First-Generation iPod
To replace the screen in a first-generation
iPod:
1. Open the iPod according to the instructions
2. Pull the battery from the back of the hard
drive. There is adhesive
holding it down.
3. Unplug the battery from the logic board.
4. Carefully slide the hard drive from the orange
hard drive connector.




5. Pull the hard drive from the iPod

6. Find the four T6 Torx screws in the logic board. A large piece of rubber covers one of
them; remove the rubber to expose the fourth screw



7. With your T6 Torx screwdriver, remove all four screws



8. Remove the logic board from the bottom of the iPod (see Figure 5-7).
9. The screen has four white clips: two on each side of the logic board. These clips hold
the screen in place. Disconnect them

10. Find the connector for the screen underneath the scroll wheel. Carefully unplug this
connector with your iPod-opening tool or small flat-headed screwdriver


11. Connect the new screen to the logic board.
12. Connect the four white clips, and make sure they’re holding the screen in place.
13. Screw in all four T6 Torx screws to the logic board.
14. Slide the hard drive back into the hard drive connector.
15. Plug the battery back into the logic board.
16. Put the iPod back together.

Replace Battery of Your First-Generation iPod Nano

The iPod nano is super-small, which makes replacing its battery something
of a test for the non-repair professional—not only because of the size, but also
because you need to solder the battery to the logic board (see Table 4-3). If you
don’t have access to a soldering iron, or if the idea of soldering your iPod nano
doesn’t exactly fill you with confidence, you might be better off leaving this one
to the pros.In this section, we give step-by-step instructions for replacing the battery in
your first-generation iPod nano. We don’t even touch replacing the battery in
the second-generation nano, because the steps are too hard for a non-pro,
and if you make a mistake, you can easily do permanent damage to your iPod.
Also, don’t try to use the procedure for the first-generation nano for replacing
the battery in a second-generation nano, because the steps aren’t the same.
Find yourself an iPod repair service instead.
To replace the battery in a first-generation iPod nano:
1. Open your iPod nano according to the instructions in Chapter 3.
2. Locate the battery (see Figure 4-29). It’s soldered to the logic board.
3. Carefully remove the battery from the logic board (see Figure 4-30). You will need to
pull the wires off.

4. With your soldering iron, solder the new battery onto the logic board.
5. Put the iPod nano back together.




Still No Power? Try These Fixes
Always install a new battery first to resolve any iPod power issues. If the new
battery doesn’t seem to do the trick, then you might try the following:
• Double-check all the connections for the new battery. Sometimes a wire can come
loose, or it might be pinched. If so, your iPod might not be able to power on.
• If all the connections are good, try charging your iPod overnight through the wall charger.
• If that doesn’t work, try a new charger.
• If that doesn’t work, try restoring your iPod with the latest iPod software through
iTunes.
If you’ve tried all these suggestions and you are still experiencing power
problems—your iPod isn’t holding a good charge, or your iPod isn’t powering
on even when you plug it into a charger—then most likely a bad logic board is
the culprit. See Chapter 9 for how to replace it.
If the battery icon goes away but you start getting different icons or warning message.

Increase your ipod/iphone battery life

Here's some tips to get the most out of your battery. That's assuming that you have a good battery. I

Turn It Off: Hold down the Play button for a few seconds until the iPod turns off. Then use the lock button to keep it off until you want to use it again.

Kill the Clock: Prevent the clock from running by never setting it. This is tricky because when the clock is connected to your computer it automatically sets itself. So reset the iPod just before you disconnect it from your computer. To reset, press and hold "Menu" and "Play" until the Apple logo appears (5-10 sec.).

General Battery Tips: Charging your iPod more frequently is NOT bad. The type of batteries used in the iPod, Lithium-Ion Polyme, do NOT develop what is known as "memory effect". According to Sony, the manufacturer, this battery should be charged to its fullest when new, and should be charged as often as possible during the lifetime of the battery. The problem with this new battery starts when you let its charge drain to less than half. The specs for this battery describe a guaranteed battery life of 500 cycles, but each cycle equals a 50% drain from full charge. Sony does not recommend letting this battery completely drain before recharging it.

How to rename your iPod

Want to change the name of your iPod? The first time you ran the iPod Setup Assistant, you were asked to name your iPod. But many people are so excited to use their new iPod that they blow right past this step. So what should you do if you want to change the name of your iPod?

Renaming your iPod is actually a very simple procedure (we get tons of emails every month asking us how to do this). Here's a list of step-by-step instructions on how to rename your iPod:

HOW TO RENAME YOUR iPOD

1. Turn on your computer and open the iTunes application
2. Connect your iPod to your computer. Wait until you see your iPod appear in the iTunes Source list. In this example, my 60GB Video iPod is just called "iPod". That's boring. Let's change it.

3. Double click on your iPod's name. The iPod's name should now be highlighted and editable

4. Type a new name. Press Enter. This name is still boring, but at least you get the idea right?

Skipping Music on iPod

When your music sounds bad or skips during playback, here's what to look for:

1) You may have a bad pair of headphones. I ruined a pair last year when I accidentally left my iPod on while inside my backpack. I think the volume was turned on full blast and blew out the headphones after playing until the iPod's battery ran out. After that, all my music sounded like crap. But when I hooked up a new pair of headphones, everything on my iPod sounded fine.

2) Also check under SETTINGS for the EQ function. You may have a weird setting like TREBBLE BOOST on. This would make all your music sound like AM radio. Change it here on your iPod: Settings > EQ (adjust to your liking)

3) Music glitches, pauses and skips on your iPod probably mean one thing: a fragmented hard drive. Do you have a disk utility program? Try a program like Norton Systemworks (PC) or Disk Warrior (Mac) and run it on your iPod, as if it were an external drive. You may also need to erase the music on your iPod and start fresh.

4) If you have problems with music skipping on your computer, you should run the same defrag programs mentioned above on the hard drive that contains all your iTunes music. If you are still getting music glitches in iTunes, the file may have gotten messed up during import.

When you import CDs into iTunes make sure:

• You have enough hard drive space on your computer.
• If you have a slow computer and/or not a lot or RAM, quit all other programs (besides iTunes) during the import process.

When I imported a few CDs on an old slow computer, I got lots of bad quality audio files. The skips and glitches in your songs may be your computer choking during the import.

The other reason for skipping tracks could be some form of copy protection. Read the fine print on the back of the CD cover and on the disc itself. Some additional information about copy protection issues may be provided.

5) If you defragmented your iPod and are still having issues with the audio, you can try to restore the iPod to the factory settings or erase it.

6) The iPod's skip protection works best with compressed audio files. This allows multiple songs to fit into iPod's 32 MB memory cache. If your audio files are large, or are uncompressed (such as songs in AIFF or WAV format), you may want to compress them, and use the MP3 or AAC compressors when importing new songs. Just put the original CD back in your computer and change your import settings in iTunes. Import the music. Then delete the bad music off your iPod and copy the newly imported music onto it. Also, if you are having problems with high bitrate MP3s, convert the files to AAC files at either 160 or 128.

7) Your iPod may be suffering from a bad sector issue. You can try putting your iPod into diagnostic mode and scan the hard drive for bad blocks. If you find some bad blocks, try running a a full read/write test. This will remap what bad sectors it can and erase all the data on your iPod.

8) If nothing listed here works, you may also hear a loud irregular clicking or spinning noise. That's the sad song of a bad hard drive. Your only real option now is to send it out to get fixed or replaced. Try our VIP Repair Service. Well if you do have to send it in to get fixed, you might want to upgrade the hard drive size while you are at it

Replacing Your Battery and Other Power Concern

With a little luck, your most pressing power concerns these
days are reducing your carbon shoe size and hoping that they
don’t re-form Power Station. If you’re experiencing additional
power troubles—for example, with regards to your iPod—
perhaps this chapter can be of service.
Whenever the words iPod and power come up in the
same sentence, Brandon immediately thinks of the battery.
Replacing iPod batteries is one of the most common repairs
that his company Synctogo.com makes, because, over time,
the battery is the component most likely to fail.
As far as repairs go, replacing the battery isn’t especially
technical. In fact, for most iPods, it’s probably the easiest,
Occasionally, the battery isn’t the source of your power
trouble. We conclude this chapter with suggestions and
advice for dealing wi
Check the Signs of a Bad Battery
What makes a battery go bad? A troubled home environment? Actually, it’s
not so sad a story. Your battery goes bad naturally just from regular use. It has
a lifetime of about a year to a year and a half, or about 500 full-charge cycles.
After that, it starts to show its age.
The most common sign that your battery is ready to be replaced is that it
doesn’t hold a charge for as long as it once did. You find yourself plugging in
your iPod more regularly, and the battery seems to get depleted more quickly.
Another sure sign is that the low-battery warning appears constantly on your
iPod’s liquid crystal display (LCD). Whether you get an icon or a warning
screen depends on your model of iPod..
You might also find that your iPod works fine when you plug it into a charger,
but that it dies immediately when you attempt to run it from the battery. In this
case, your battery isn’t just dying; it’s dead. Time for a replacement.th non-battery power concerns.

Open Your-Generation iPod Nano

Open a Second-Generation iPod Nano
To open a second-generation iPod nano:
1. This step is optional, so feel free to skip it. With your hair dryer or heat gun, heat the
top and bottom pieces of the iPod nano until they are fairly warm to the touch. As with
the iPod mini, you want to soften up the adhesive that holds the plastic, not deform the
plastic or melt it.
2. Carefully pry off the plastic pieces on the top and bottom of the iPod nano by wedging
your plastic tool or flat-headed screwdriver between the metal shell and the plastic pieces.
3. At the top of the iPod nano, you see two small screws, one on each side .
With your Phillips-head screwdriver, remove both screws.

4. At the bottom of the iPod nano, you see two more small screws . With
your Phillips-head screwdriver, remove those as well.

5. Pull out the audio jack, but don’t pull it all the way out, because it is attached by a
ribbon cable . Handle both the jack and the cable carefully.

6. Under the audio jack, you find another screw that was previously hidden. Take out this
screw as well
7. Take out the small metal bracket that surrounds the docking port by prying it gently
with your plastic tool or flat-headed screwdriver


8. Disconnect the audio jack from the logic board. (This step can be a little sketchy,
because you can’t completely see what you’re doing.) To do this, take your plastic
tool or flat-headed screwdriver, and carefully pull the audio-jack connector toward
the front of the iPod until the connector comes unplugged .
However, do not remove the audio jack from the iPod, as it is still connected to
the Click Wheel.

9. Very carefully take your plastic tool or flat-headed screwdriver, and push the logic
board through the casing . Note that the Click Wheel and audio jack
remain inside the casing.

open your iPod Mini

Open Your iPod Mini
To open a first- or second-generation iPod mini:
1. This step is optional, so feel free to skip it. With your hair dryer or heat gun, heat the
top and bottom pieces of the iPod mini until they are fairly warm to the touch. Your goal
here is to soften up the adhesive behind the plastic. You do not want to deform the
plastic or melt it.
2. Carefully pry off the white plastic pieces on the top and bottom of the iPod mini. To do
this, wedge your plastic tool or flat-headed screwdriver between the metal shell and
the white plastic pieces.
3. At the top of the iPod mini, you see two small screws: one on each side.
With your Phillips-head screwdriver, remove both screws.

4. At the bottom of the iPod mini, you see a small piece of metal. You need to remove
it, but don’t worry. It should come out easily enough. The piece of metal is springclipped
in place. Dislodge the two clips; a screwdriver works better here than your

plastic tool. Then pry out the piece of metal with your plastic tool or flat-headed
screwdriver

5. Behind the piece of metal, you see the button of the Click Wheel.
Gently—for the love of Janis, gently—unplug the Click Wheel
connector .
6. Carefully push from the bottom, and slide the insides of the iPod
mini out through the top as you hum “Within
You Without You” from Sgt. Pepper.

Open Your Third or Fourth Generation iPod

Open Your Third- or Fourth-Generation
iPod or Your iPod Photo
To open a third- or fourth-generation iPod or an iPod photo:
1. Turn the iPod on its side, and measure about two inches from the bottom.
2. Take your plastic tool or flat-headed screwdriver, and carefully but firmly
wedge it between the plastic front and the metal back at the position you
located in step 1.
3. Use the plastic tool or the flat-headed screwdriver as a lever to crack open
the case.
4. Carefully slide the plastic tool or the flat-headed screwdriver down the side of the
iPod to release all the clips that hold it together.
5. Begin to remove the back from the iPod, but don’t take it all the way off just yet. As
soon as you can, unplug the audio jack (see Figure 3-4). Do this before completely
taking off the back. If you don’t, you can damage your iPod. To unplug the audio jack,
try using your fingers, or pry the audio jack with your opening tool if the jack won’t
budge. The audio cable attached to the jack is delicate, so easy does it.

7. With the audio jack unplugged, take the back the rest of the way off.
Open Your iPod Video
To open your fifth-generation iPod:
1. Turn the iPod on its side, and measure about two inches from the bottom of the unit.
2. Take your plastic tool or flat-headed screwdriver, and carefully but firmly
wedge it between the plastic front and the metal back at the position you
located in step 1.
3. Use the plastic tool or the flat-headed screwdriver as a lever to crack open
the case.
4. Carefully slide the plastic tool or the flat-headed screwdriver down the side of the
iPod to release all the clips that hold it together.
5. Gently pick up the back, but don’t take it all the way off just yet. Notice that
there are two ribbon cables connecting the back to the logic board of the iPod
6. Unplug the cables from the logic
board one at a time .
The connectors are held with a clip.
Release the clip, and pull the cables
out. Be very gentle with the cables;
they can tear rather easily.
7. With the cables unplugged, take
the back the rest of the way off

Open Your iPod First Generation

Open Your iPod
Some iPods love to pop right open, while some just want to stay closed, but
patience rewards all practitioners. Keep at it, and don’t get too frustrated;
anyone can open any iPod. (The same holds true as dating advice.) We talk
about the iPod mini and the iPod nano later in this chapter.
Open Your First- or Second-Generation iPod
To open a first- or second-generation iPod:
1. Turn the iPod on its side, and measure about two inches from the bottom.
2. Take your plastic tool or flat-headed screwdriver, and carefully but firmly wedge it
between the plastic front and the metal back at the position you located in step 1.
If you have problems, you might try running your tool along the crack and gradually
working it in.
3. Use the plastic tool or the flat-headed screwdriver as a lever to crack open the case

4. Carefully slide the plastic tool or the flat-headed screwdriver down the side of the iPod
to release all the clips that hold it together

5. Carefully remove the back from the
iPod