adam's bite

How to Install ISO/CSO Games in PSP 3000 or PSP 2000 Latest Motherboard

2009-07-19T10:54:00.000-07:00

Now, a lot of people have emailed or contacted me on this when it comes to PSP 3000. So, as for beginners I will teach you guys the way to install it. The advance PSP 3000 users doesn't need to read this....

Ok, usually installing ISO/CSO Games if the PSP 3000 has already the CFW Loader Installed or the 5.03 CFW GEN-A Installed in the unit. If the they are not installed, the PSP Unit will not be able to identify or find it in the PSP 3000 Memory Stick (GAMES>MEMORY STICK). Click here for CFW Enabler Guide. Or Click Here for GEN-A CFW Loader Guide

*Note: I advise you guys to buy the games first before creating an ISO backed up games. Let's also support the developers for this.

1) Now if you have an ISO game in your PC, connect your PSP 3000 to PC first.

2) Your computer should detect your PSP Memory Stick and automatically open the Memory Stick Drive. If it doesn't you can go to "My Computer" and open your Memory Stick Drive(removable disk "example F:").

3) Once you are inside, you should see lots of folders; PSP, PICTURES, VIDEO, MUSIC, etc.

4) If you don't see any folder named "ISO" from what you are seeing now, then that means you have to create one. the example should be like this: "F:\ISO\"

5) Now, lets say you have Monster Hunter Freedom Unite ISO with you. All you have to do is copy "MHFU.iso"and paste it into "F:\ISO\". The example should be like this: "F:\ISO\MHFU.iso"

6) Now after that, just disconnect your PSP and go to GAMES>MEMORY STICK>Monster Hunter Freedom Unite. That's it!! :)

*Note: Make sure that you have 5.03 ChickHEN R2 running in your PSP 3000 along with the CFW LOADER. To make this work.

Now others may ask or search

Q: How do you uninstall the program ChickHEN R2 and the CFW Enabler or GEN-A LOADER?

A: Simple, just shutdown the psp unit completely. As in HOLD Turn Off long enough to make it shutdown. After that, switch the PSP Unit back on and the version of the PSP Unit should go back to Official Firmware 5.03.

Q: I've seen some people manage to install a Customed Theme to PSP 3000, how can i install that one?

A: You can if you want, but my suggestion to you guys is NOT TO INSTALL them. There is a chance to brick your PSP 3000.

SOurce : http://mpsp.blogspot.com

How to crack a computer password

2009-04-10T08:27:00.000-07:00

Password Cracking Goals, Techniques and Relative Merits and Cracking Times of Different Techniques

Password crackers are primarily after (root or administrative account passwords) when they crack passwords. Their tools are password cracking programs that use password dictionaries. The feature lists of common password cracking programs or tools are discussed. Also listed are the suggested standard dictionary transformations for Crack, the best known tool for cracking passwords. How long it takes to crack passwords and the primary factors affecting password cracking times are covered. Why password dictionary attacks dramatically lower brute force password cracking times is discussed.

•Goals of the Cracker
•Password Cracking Programs’ Feature List
•Password Cracking Program Examples
•How Long Does It Take to Crack Passwords?
•Table of Times to Crack Passwords
•Brute Force, Dictionary Comparison
Goals of the Cracker
The goal of the cracker is to obtain the root account password on UNIX systems and administrator accounts on Windows NT and 2000 systems. With some UNIX security setups, the passwords for users in the wheel, security, or root group may have significant value. Since the cracker presumably already has some degree of access to the target machine (cracking can only be performed when the attacker already possess the password hashes), it’s not likely that unprivileged accounts will be of much value to the intruder but the techniques for obtaining passwords are the same regardless of the target account.

The intruder is likely to need only one password for an account with suitable privileges. Additional accounts may be of some value in preserving access but not likely to make much practical difference in obtaining access to the system at the desired privilege level.

The cracking times table shows that with the computing power currently available and for the next several years, eight character passwords (the traditional length limit on UNIX systems) can be chosen that will not be cracked by brute force techniques but still most passwords are poorly chosen and fit some predictable characteristics.

Since brute force is not likely to identify any but the weakest passwords, the intruder’s best chance is to identify techniques that are computationally efficient compared to brute force techniques and have a reasonable chance of cracking some of the passwords in the collection of accounts and password hashes in their possession. By applying what is known about how users select passwords, an intruder can tremendously increase the odds in their favor of finding passwords. With the right techniques, some poor passwords can be cracked in under a second.
Cracking Tool’s Feature List

The fundamental flaw in the password system is the tendency of most people to select names and words that can be found in dictionaries as their passwords. Often such names or words are modified by applying predictable changes to them. This may be in response to system requirements to vary the kinds of characters included in a password.

The alternative to brute force is a dictionary attack. At its simplest this means treating each word in a dictionary (electronic list) as a password and encrypting it and then comparing the resulting hashes to the hashes in the password file being cracked. If the hashes match, the password is known. It’s imperative to understand that this is only the most rudimentary form of dictionary attack and that the real power of dictionary attacks come from understanding the ways in which most people vary names and dictionary words when attempting to create a password. By applying all the common transformations to every word in the electronic list and encrypting each result the number tested passwords multiplies rapidly. Every “clever” way of manipulating words to hide their origin is know to the cracking tools.

To understand what make weak and strong passwords, it’s necessary to understand what cracking tools can and can’t do. L0phtCrack is the leading Windows cracking tool. The easy to use L0phtCrack with its GUI interface is rather limited compared to Crack 5 and John the Ripper in its dictionary transformation capabilities. L0phtCrack can append a user specified number of characters to the end of the dictionary words. It works through the entire character set and appends every combination to each dictionary word; this includes all the letter sequences as well as digits and symbols. L0phtCrack takes less than a second to process the default dictionary of nearly 30,000 words and about a minute and a half to process two additional characters in conjunction with the 30,000 word list (on a PIII 500).

Both Crack 5 and John the Ripper allow the user to define rule sets that control the transformations that are applied to the input dictionaries (word lists). Below are most of the transformations that John the Ripper can perform. Crack has the same capabilities.

* Append or prepend defined characters to a word.
* Reverse a word.
* Duplicate a word.
* Mirror a word, i.e. append the reversed word.
* Rotate a word either left or right, i.e. move the first letter to the end or the last letter to the front.
* Upper case a word.
* Lower case a word.
* Make only the first letter a capital.
* Male all but the first letter a capital.
* Toggle the case of all characters.
* Toggle the case of a character at a set position.
* Minumum and maximum word lengths can be set or long words can be truncated at a set length.
* Suffixes (s, ed, ing) may be added to words.
* First, last or any specific character may be deleted.
* Characters can be replaced at a set location.
* Characters can be inserted at a set location.
* “Shift” the case, i.e. substitute the other character on the same key, e.g. ‘a’ and ‘A’ or ‘5′ and ‘%’.
* Shift the characters left or right by keyboard position (so an ’s’ becomes an ‘a’ or ‘d’).
* Replace all of one character with another.
* Replace all characters of a class (for example vowels, letters, non letters, digits) with a specific character.
* Remove all occurrences of any character from a word.
* Remove all characters of a class from a word.
* Reject a word if it contains or doesn’t contain a character, or characters from a class.
* Reject a word if the first, last or set character is or is not a specific character or from a class.
* Reject a word unless it contains at least so many of a character or characters from a class.

In the forgoing a class might be any of the following: a letter, a vowel, a consonant, an upper case letter, a lower case letter, a digit, a symbol or punctuation, a non letter (digits, symbols and punctuation), alphanumeric or one of several others. The length limits and reject options don’t increase the possibilities but allow the cracker to skip “words” where a particular type of transformation may not make much sense; this should improve the cracking tool efficiency.
Cracking Tool Examples

The words that the transformations operate on can be either from a standard dictionary (word list, one per line) or from the user name and words (or names) extracted from the /etc/passwd GECOS field. Crack appears to be limited to words from dictionaries. Rules can be combined to perform multiple transformations on the words. Below is the list of actual transformations suggested in the Crack 5 documentation:

* Lower case pure alpha words.
* Lower case and pluralize alpha words.
* Append digits and punctuation to all pure alpha words.
* Lower case and reverse pure alpha words.
* Lower case and mirror pure alpha words.
* Capitalize all alphanumeric words, i.e. first letter only.
* Capitalize all alphanumeric words and add a variety of common punctuation so ‘cats’ becomes Cats! Cats? Cats. Cats, Cats- etc.
* Upper case all alphanumeric words.
* Remove vowels from pure alpha words.
* Remove white space and punctuation from those words that have it.
* Duplicate short words.
* Perform most of the similar looking character substitutions identified in the list of dont’s.
* Lower case and prepend digits (all words).
* Capitalize then reverse alphanumeric words.
* Reverse then capitalize words.
* Upper case words adding common punctuation and swapping zero for O.
* Upper case then duplicate, reverse and mirror words.

A number of the preceding transformations had length limitations which have been omitted for simplicity.
How Long Does It Take to Crack Passwords?

Conceptually the easiest way to crack passwords is to generate character sequences working through all possible 1 character passwords, then two character, then three character, etc. This is the brute force attack previously mentioned. It could start at any specific length password. Theoretically any possible password can be found this way but generally there is not sufficient computing power available to successfully accomplish this. A number of factors deteremine how long a brute force attack will take. Some may be under a system administrators control and others are not.

One factor is the amount of computing power available to solve the problem. Computing power increases continually; Moore’s law anticipated a doubling of processing power every 18 months and this has so far been a close approximation to reality. This works out to about a 100 times increase each decade. Today a computer is likely to have approximately a million times the computing power available when the first UNIX was developed.

Password cracking lends itself well to parallel processing on multiple machines with near linear gains as more machines are applied to the problem. Someone with access to many machines during off-hours at a company or educational institution may be able to apply lots of computing power. Computers with a wide range of speeds may be available. Thus the amount of computing power available for password cracking continually rises but the amount available to a single cracker or group of crackers may vary by orders of magnitude at any specific point in time.

Another factor is the algorithm used to encrypt the password. Generally this is set by the operating system but some such as Linux and OpenBSD allow the administrator to select from different types. On OpenBSD the administrator can control loop counts for some of the options. Changing the encryption method and how many times it is applied, can greatly increase the time it takes to compute a password hash. Generally, the longer it takes to compute the hash when the password is created, the longer it will take when trying to crack the password. The standard UNIX encryption method has been changed to make it slower more than once. On the other hand, some algorithms have multiple implementations and those cracking passwords have created variants that produce the same results but run as much as 100 times faster than the version that originally encrypts the password2.

Probably the most important factor in brute force cracking of passwords is how many passwords need to be examined to cover all possible passwords. Two factors determine this. They are the length of the password and the number of characters in the character set from which the passwords are formed. The number of possible passwords is the number of characters in the character set raised to the power represented by the password length. For example, the number of possible three character passwords formed by 26 letters is 26 cubed.

The table below is calculated by assuming 100,000 encryption operations per second; this is a plausible number for a desktop PC today. In “Password Cracking Using Focused Dictionaries”1, Paul Bobby refers to 48000 “password combinations per second” on a “P2-400Mhz computer”. In “UNIX Password Security - Ten Years Later”2, Feldmeier and Karn refer to a “top speed of 1092.8 crypts per second on a Sun SPARCStation.” in 1989. Applying Moores law we should get between 100,000 and 200,000 crypts per second on a high end workstations eleven years later. Using L0phtCrack5, I’ve seen about 1.2 million “Tries/sec” using only alphanumeric characters and about nine hundred thousand “Tries/sec” using the full 95 character, printable ASCII character set, on a PIII 500. I believe the L0phtCrack number is at least in part a result of the weaker encryption used by NT as discussed on another page.

Password lengths from 3 to 12 are shown. The numbers at the top, 26 - 94, indicate the number of characters from which the passwords are formed. 26 is the number of lower case letters, 36 is letters and digits, 52 is mixed case letters, 68 is single case letters with digits, symbols and punctuation, and 94 is all the displayable ASCII characters including mixed case letters. The times shown are the times to process the entire set of passwords thus the average time to crack passwords would be one half the listed times.

26 36 52
3 0.18 seconds 0.47 seconds 1.41 seconds
4 4.57 seconds 16.8 seconds 1.22 minutes
5 1.98 minutes 10.1 minutes 1.06 hours
6 51.5 minutes 6.05 hours 13.7 days
7 22.3 hours 9.07 days 3.91 months
8 24.2 days 10.7 months 17.0 years
9 1.72 years 32.2 years 8.82 centuries
10 44.8 years 1.16 millennia 45.8 millennia
11 11.6 centuries 41.7 millennia 2,384 millennia
12 30.3 millennia 1,503 millennia 123,946 millennia

68 94
3 3.14 seconds 8.3 seconds
4 3.56 minutes 13.0 minutes
5 4.04 hours 20.4 hours
6 2.26 months 2.63 months
7 2.13 years 20.6 years
8 1.45 centuries 1.93 millennia
9 9.86 millennia 182 millennia
10 670 millennia 17,079 millennia
11 45,582 millennia 1,605,461 millennia
12 3,099,562 millennia 150,913,342 millennia

Even if a cracker has a thousand times more power available than assumed, e.g., 100,000 is significantly low and the crackers has lot of fast computers or a supercomputer, it’s very easy to find passwords that can’t easily be cracked. Eight character passwords using the entire character set will do, as it will take nearly two years to work through all possible passwords. Depending on the password and the brute force sequence, some passwords might fall quickly. For example if passwords were generated in the order of ASCII collating sequence, the poor password !!!111Aa might be found rather quickly.

The time to process a cracking dictionary is determined in the same manner. The total number of passwords to be tried, which is a product of the number of words in the dictionary times the number of transformations per word, is divided by the rate it takes to encrypt passwords. Complex rule sets may impose an additional significant overhead. On today’s computers, small dictionaries (less than 100,000) with a few transformations will complete in a few seconds. The total number of passwords with large dictionaries and many transformations or huge dictionaries will be huge and the processing time correspondingly large.
Brute Force, Dictionary Comparison

As brute force is the only alternative to dictionary based password cracking it’s worth taking a close look the table above. Look at how long it should take to crack eight character passwords drawing from the 95 typeable characters. One simple statement should put this in perspective. Not including NT systems, that have a seriously flawed password storage method
It is highly unlikely that any cracker has ever gotten even a single password, eight characters or longer, randomly created from the entire 95 printable ASCII character set.

Randomness does have it’s surprises. If numbers are randomly selected from a billion number sequence, there is a one in a billion chance that the first number will be drawn on the first try. Very unlikely but still possible. To have a 1% chance of cracking a specific random, 8 character password from the full character set takes about 20 years of computing, at 100,000 passwords per second.

An obscure word in the Afrikaans language, mirrored and all uppercased except the first letter is more likely to be used as a password than any single random character sequence of similar length. Further, where the single random sequence cannot be reliably found by existing technology today, the Afrikaans derived password surely can; it’s simply a matter of the cracker having and choosing to apply sufficient resources

Any word and all the mechanical transformations that can be described to change that word into something else is a subset of all possible combinations of the same characters. As the length of the word increases, the standard transformations become an ever smaller subset of the possible permutations. For a word of meaningful length, say more than 5 characters, the word and its transformations is an infinitesimal subset of all possible combinations of the same number of all characters. In other words, the longer the passwords to be cracked, the larger the advantage of a dictionary based attack will be compared to a brute force attack. Here “dictionary based attack” is understood to include custom programmed dictionaries as described in subsequent pages in this section.

source:from:\ Geodsoft

Reason why Windows crashes is hardware conflict

2008-10-11T05:46:00.000-07:00

Fatal error: the system has become unstable or is busy," it says. "Enter to return to Windows or press Control-Alt-Delete to restart your computer. If you do this you will lose any unsaved information in all open applications."

You have just been struck by the Blue Screen of Death. Anyone who uses Mcft Windows will be familiar with this. What can you do? More importantly, how can you prevent it happening?

1 Hardware conflict

The number one reason why Windows crashes is hardware conflict. Each hardware device communicates to other devices through an interrupt request channel (IRQ). These are supposed to be unique for each device.

For example, a printer usually connects internally on IRQ 7. The keyboard usually uses IRQ 1 and the floppy disk drive IRQ 6. Each device will try to hog a single IRQ for itself.

If there are a lot of devices, or if they are not installed properly, two of them may end up sharing the same IRQ number. When the user tries to use both devices at the same time, a crash can happen. The way to check if your computer has a hardware conflict is through the following route:

* Start-Settings-Control Panel-System-Device Manager.

Often if a device has a problem a yellow '!' appears next to its description in the Device Manager. Highlight Computer (in the Device Manager) and press Properties to see the IRQ numbers used by your computer. If the IRQ number appears twice, two devices may be using it.

Sometimes a device might share an IRQ with something described as 'IRQ holder for PCI steering'. This can be ignored. The best way to fix this problem is to remove the problem device and reinstall it.

Sometimes you may have to find more recent drivers on the internet to make the device function properly. A good resource is www.driverguide.com

. If the device is a soundcard, or a modem, it can often be fixed by moving it to a different slot on the motherboard (be careful about opening your computer, as you may void the warranty).

When working inside a computer you should switch it off, unplug the mains lead and touch an unpainted metal surface to discharge any static electricity.

To be fair to Mcft, the problem with IRQ numbers is not of its making. It is a legacy problem going back to the first PC designs using the IBM 8086 chip. Initially there were only eight IRQs. Today there are 16 IRQs in a PC. It is easy to run out of them. There are plans to increase the number of IRQs in future designs.

2 Bad Ram

Ram (random-access memory) problems might bring on the blue screen of death with a message saying Fatal Exception Error. A fatal error indicates a serious hardware problem. Sometimes it may mean a part is damaged and will need replacing.

But a fatal error caused by Ram might be caused by a mismatch of chips. For example, mixing 70-nanosecond (70ns) Ram with 60ns Ram will usually force the computer to run all the Ram at the slower speed. This will often crash the machine if the Ram is overworked.

One way around this problem is to enter the BIOS settings and increase the wait state of the Ram. This can make it more stable. Another way to troubleshoot a suspected Ram problem is to rearrange the Ram chips on the motherboard, or take some of them out. Then try to repeat the circumstances that caused the crash. When handling Ram try not to touch the gold connections, as they can be easily damaged.

Parity error messages also refer to Ram. Modern Ram chips are either parity (ECC) or non parity (non-ECC). It is best not to mix the two types, as this can be a cause of trouble.

EMM386 error messages refer to memory problems but may not be connected to bad Ram. This may be due to free memory problems often linked to old Dos-based programmes.

3 BIOS settings

Every motherboard is supplied with a range of chipset settings that are decided in the factory. A common way to access these settings is to press the F2 or delete button during the first few seconds of a boot-up.

Once inside the BIOS, great care should be taken. It is a good idea to write down on a piece of paper all the settings that appear on the screen. That way, if you change something and the computer becomes more unstable, you will know what settings to revert to.

A common BIOS error concerns the CAS latency. This refers to the Ram. Older EDO (extended data out) Ram has a CAS latency of 3. Newer SDRam has a CAS latency of 2. Setting the wrong figure can cause the Ram to lock up and freeze the computer's display.

Mcft Windows is better at allocating IRQ numbers than any BIOS. If possible set the IRQ numbers to Auto in the BIOS. This will allow Windows to allocate the IRQ numbers (make sure the BIOS setting for Plug and Play OS is switched to 'yes' to allow Windows to do this.).

4 Hard disk drives

After a few weeks, the information on a hard disk drive starts to become piecemeal or fragmented. It is a good idea to defragment the hard disk every week or so, to prevent the disk from causing a screen freeze. Go to

* Start-Programs-Accessories-System Tools-Disk Defragmenter

This will start the procedure. You will be unable to write data to the hard drive (to save it) while the disk is defragmenting, so it is a good idea to schedule the procedure for a period of inactivity using the Task Scheduler.

The Task Scheduler should be one of the small icons on the bottom right of the Windows opening page (the desktop).

Some lockups and screen freezes caused by hard disk problems can be solved by reducing the read-ahead optimisation. This can be adjusted by going to

* Start-Settings-Control Panel-System Icon-Performance-File System-Hard Disk.

Hard disks will slow down and crash if they are too full. Do some housekeeping on your hard drive every few months and free some space on it. Open the Windows folder on the C drive and find the Temporary Internet Files folder. Deleting the contents (not the folder) can free a lot of space.

Empty the Recycle Bin every week to free more space. Hard disk drives should be scanned every week for errors or bad sectors. Go to

* Start-Programs-Accessories-System Tools-ScanDisk

Otherwise assign the Task Scheduler to perform this operation at night when the computer is not in use.

5 Fatal OE exceptions and VXD errors

Fatal OE exception errors and VXD errors are often caused by video card problems.

These can often be resolved easily by reducing the resolution of the video display. Go to

* Start-Settings-Control Panel-Display-Settings

Here you should slide the screen area bar to the left. Take a look at the colour settings on the left of that window. For most desktops, high colour 16-bit depth is adequate.

If the screen freezes or you experience system lockups it might be due to the video card. Make sure it does not have a hardware conflict. Go to

* Start-Settings-Control Panel-System-Device Manager

Here, select the + beside Display Adapter. A line of text describing your video card should appear. Select it (make it blue) and press properties. Then select Resources and select each line in the window. Look for a message that says No Conflicts.

If you have video card hardware conflict, you will see it here. Be careful at this point and make a note of everything you do in case you make things worse.

The way to resolve a hardware conflict is to uncheck the Use Automatic Settings box and hit the Change Settings button. You are searching for a setting that will display a No Conflicts message.

Another useful way to resolve video problems is to go to

* Start-Settings-Control Panel-System-Performance-Graphics

Here you should move the Hardware Acceleration slider to the left. As ever, the most common cause of problems relating to graphics cards is old or faulty drivers (a driver is a small piece of software used by a computer to communicate with a device).

Look up your video card's manufacturer on the internet and search for the most recent drivers for it.

6 Viruses

Often the first sign of a virus infection is instability. Some viruses erase the boot sector of a hard drive, making it impossible to start. This is why it is a good idea to create a Windows start-up disk. Go to

Start-Settings-Control Panel-Add/Remove Programs

Here, look for the Start Up Disk tab. Virus protection requires constant vigilance.

A virus scanner requires a list of virus signatures in order to be able to identify viruses. These signatures are stored in a DAT file. DAT files should be updated weekly from the website of your antivirus software manufacturer.

7 Printers

The action of sending a document to print creates a bigger file, often called a postscript file.

Printers have only a small amount of memory, called a buffer. This can be easily overloaded. Printing a document also uses a considerable amount of CPU power. This will also slow down the computer's performance.

If the printer is trying to print unusual characters, these might not be recognised, and can crash the computer. Sometimes printers will not recover from a crash because of confusion in the buffer. A good way to clear the buffer is to unplug the printer for ten seconds. Booting up from a powerless state, also called a cold boot, will restore the printer's default settings and you may be able to carry on.

8 Software

A common cause of computer crash is faulty or badly-installed software. Often the problem can be cured by uninstalling the software and then reinstalling it. Use Norton Uninstall or Uninstall Shield to remove an application from your system properly. This will also remove references to the programme in the System Registry and leaves the way clear for a completely fresh copy.

The System Registry can be corrupted by old references to obsolete software that you thought was uninstalled. Use Reg Cleaner by Jouni Vuorio to clean up the System Registry and remove obsolete entries. It works on Windows 95, Windows 98, Windows 98 SE (Second Edition), Windows Millennium Edition (ME), NT4 and Windows 2000.

Read the instructions and use it carefully so you don't do permanent damage to the Registry. If the Registry is damaged you will have to reinstall your operating system. Reg Cleaner can be obtained from www.jv16.org

Often a Windows problem can be resolved by entering Safe Mode. This can be done during start-up. When you see the message "Starting Windows" press F4. This should take you into Safe Mode.

Safe Mode loads a minimum of drivers. It allows you to find and fix problems that prevent Windows from loading properly.

Sometimes installing Windows is difficult because of unsuitable BIOS settings. If you keep getting SUWIN error messages (Windows setup) during the Windows installation, then try entering the BIOS and disabling the CPU internal cache. Try to disable the Level 2 (L2) cache if that doesn't work.

Remember to restore all the BIOS settings back to their former settings following installation.

9 Overheating

Central processing units (CPUs) are usually equipped with fans to keep them cool. If the fan fails or if the CPU gets old it may start to overheat and generate a particular kind of error called a kernel error. This is a common problem in chips that have been overclocked to operate at higher speeds than they are supposed to.

One remedy is to get a bigger better fan and install it on top of the CPU.

CPU problems can often be fixed by disabling the CPU internal cache in the BIOS. This will make the machine run more slowly, but it should also be more stable.

10 Power supply problems

With all the new construction going on around the country the steady supply of electricity has become disrupted. A power surge or spike can crash a computer as easily as a power cut.

If this has become a nuisance for you then consider buying a uninterrupted power supply (UPS). This will give you a clean power supply when there is electricity, and it will give you a few minutes to perform a controlled shutdown in case of a power cut.

It is a good investment if your data are critical, because a power cut will cause any unsaved data to be lost.

White LED Flashlight Conversions

2008-10-03T09:48:00.000-07:00

Many flashlights can be easily converted to use white LEDs instead of regular incandescent bulbs. The flashlight can quickly be returned to its original bulb and battery configuration later if you wish. Of course this procedure will void the warranty on your flashlight, but the only permanent modification made is increasing the size of the hole in the reflector assembly. Since I live in a remote area with no streetlights and am a volunteer firefighter, flashlights are very important and are used daily by everyone in the family. I normally use Maglite® flashlights in different sizes for reliability reasons, but have been frustrated with short battery and bulb life. I normally get only 5 hours on 2xAA batteries, and have to change bulbs every 2 sets of batteries or so. Converted white LED MiniMaglites® have become my favorite flashlights! Though the LED conversions are not as bright as normal bulbs, the batteries last over 6 times as long, and I have not replaced an LED bulb yet despite running them at over their maximum current. Otherpower.com sells super-bright white LEDs that are perfect for flashlight conversions, plus LED clusters that fit normal automotive taillight bulb sockets, available at any auto parts store. We made various attempts at figuring out how to mass-produce the spacer with resistor -- and we've decided not to offer them for sale because we can't manufacture them cheaply. Much better to make your own anyway! You can check out our line of efficient lighting products in the Renewable Energy section of our web shopping cart. MiniMaglite® LED ConversionsAlkaline batteries are often the best choice for flashlights, since they retain more power when sitting unused for long periods of time. And you can expect over 6 times longer battery life when using a white LED bulb! This is important when a flashlight must sit in your truck for weeks or months without use. In this situation, NiCad or NiMh rechargables would most likely have little power left in them after sitting for months. Alkaline N-cells are inexpensive and usually locally .

 Take off the flashlight head and remove the incandescent bulb. Save the bulb for future use if you ever decide to return your flashlight to its original condition.  Trim the tabs off of the LED leads using nippers. A flat needle file or sandpaper can help smooth the lead.  Trim the LED leads off to 1/4 inch in length.  Insert the LED into the bulb socket. If does not light up, reverse the LED and it will. If not, check your batteries, and also make sure the LED leads are not touching each other.  Remove the reflector, and using a 1/4 inch drill bit carefully widen the hole for the bulb to 1/4 inch. Our LED bulbs do not need reflectors since they emit light at a set 20° angle, but the reflector assembly is needed in a MiniMaglite® for the switch to function properly. Now try your flashlight with the original AA batteries. It should light up, but somewhat dimmly. If you run it like this, the batteries will last for weeks of continous on-time. It's not very bright, but it is enough light to find the keyhole or make your way to the bathroom. To run the LED at full brightness you'll need to use 3 N cells. Next,  Install the 3 N-cell batteries.  Install a spacer (containing an internal current-limiting resistor) You'll need to build a spacer to hold the resistor and make the whole battery pack come out to the right length. Our prototype used a 3/8 inch length of 1/2 inch diameter wooden dowel (see photos below). We drilled short holes at the ends of the dowel for battery contacts made of small machine screws. We then drilled an off-center hole all the way through the spacer for the resistor, and wrapped each resistor lead around the contacts.

Emergency Light

2008-09-29T07:11:00.000-07:00

Emergency Light
The circuit of automatic emergency light presented here has the following features: 1. When the mains supply (230V AC) is available, it charges a 12V battery up to 13.5V and then the battery is disconnected from the charging section. 2. When the battery discharges up to 10.2V, it is disconnected from the load and the charging process is resumed. 3. If the mains voltage is available and there is darkness in the room, load (bulb or tube) is turned on by taking power from the mains; otherwise the battery is connected to the load. 4. When the battery discharges up to 10.2V and if the mains is not yet available, the battery is completely disconnected from the circuit to avoid its further discharge. The mains supply of 230V AC is stepped down to 18V AC (RMS) using a 230V AC primary to 0-18V AC, 2A secondary transformer (X1), generally used in 36cm B&W TVs. Diodes D1 through D4 form bridge rectifier and capacitor C5 filters the voltage, providing about 25V DC at the output. Charging section includes 33-ohm, 10-watt resistor R2 which limits the charging current to about 425 mA when battery voltage is about 10.2V, or to 325 mA when battery voltage is about 13.5V. When the battery charges to 13.5V (as set by VR2), zener diode D17 goes into breakdown region, thereby triggering triac TR1. Now, since DC is passing through the triac, it remains continuously ‘on’ even if the gate current is reduced to zero (by disconnecting the gate terminal). Once the battery is fully charged, charging section is cut-off from the battery due to energisation of relay RL2. This relay remains ‘on’ even if the power fails because of connection to the battery via diode D10. S4, a normally closed switch, is included to manually restart the charging process if required. Battery disconnect and charging restart section comprises an NE555 timer (IC2) wired in monostable mode. When the battery voltage is above 10.2V (as indicated by red LED D15), zener diode (D16) remains in the breakdown region, making the trigger pin 2 of IC2 high, thereby maintaining output pin 3 in low voltage state. Thus, relay RL3 is ‘on’ and relay RL4 is ‘off.’ But as soon as the battery voltage falls to about 10.2V (as set by preset VR1), zener diode D16 comes out of conduction, making pin 2 low and pin 3 high to turn ‘on’ relay RL4 and orange LED D13. This also switches off relay RL3 and LED D15. Now, if the mains is available, charging restarts due to de-energisation of relay RL2 because when relay RL4 is ‘on,’ it breaks the circuit of relay RL2 and triac TR1. But if the mains supply is not present, both relays RL3 and RL1 de-energise, disconnecting the battery from the remaining circuit. Thus when battery voltage falls to 10.2 volts, its further discharge is eliminated. But as soon as the mains supply resumes, it energises relay RL1, thereby connecting the battery again to the circuit. Light sensor section also makes use of a 555 timer IC in the monostable mode. As long as normal light is falling on LDR1, its resistance is comparatively low. As a result pin 2 of IC3 is held near Vcc and its output at pin 3 is at low level. In darkness, LDR resistance is very high, which causes pin 2 of IC3 to fall to near ground potential and thus trigger it. As a consequence, output pin 3 goes high during the monostable pulse period, forward biasing transistor T3 which goes into saturation, energising relay RL5. With auto/bypass switch S2 off (in auto mode), the load gets connected to supply via switch S3. If desired, the load may be switched during the day-time by flipping switch S2 to ‘on’ position (manual). Preset VR3 is the sensitivity control used for setting threshold light level at which the load is to be automatically switched on/off. Capacitors with the relays ensure that there is no chattering of the relays. When the mains is present, diode D8 couples the input voltage to regulator IC1 whereas diode D10 feeds the input voltage to it (from battery) in absense of mains supply. Diode D5 connects the load to the power supply section via resistor R5 when mains is available (diode D18 does not conduct). However, when mains power fails, the situation reverses and diode D18 conducts while diode D5 does not conduct. . The load can be any bulb of 12 volts with a maximum current rating of 2 amperes (24 watts). Resistor R5 is supposed to drop approximately 12 volts when the load current flows through it during mains availability . Hence power dissipated in it would almost be equal to the load power. It is therefore desirable to replace R5 with a bulb of similar voltage and wattage as the load so that during mains availability we have more (double) light than when the load is fed from the battery. For setting presets VR1 and VR2, just take out (desolder one end) diodes D7, D10 and D18. Connect a variable source of power supply in place of battery. Set preset VR1 so that battery-high LED D15 is just off at 10.2V of the variable source. Increase the potential of the variable source and observe the shift from LO BAT LED D13 to D15. Now make the voltage of the source 13.5V and set preset VR2 so that relay RL2 just energises. Then decrease the voltage slowly and observe that relay RL2 does not de-energise above 10.2V. At 10.2V, LED D15 should be off and relay RL2 should de-energise while LED D13 should light up. Preset VR3 can be adjusted during evening hours so that the load is ‘on’ during the desired light conditions

Download Circuit Diagram :
http://www.ziddu.com/download/2280897/3.gif.html

Car anti theft wireless alarm

2008-09-29T07:06:00.000-07:00

Car anti theft wireless alarm.
This FM radio-controlled anti- theft alarm can be used with any vehicle having 6- to 12-volt DC supply system. The mini VHF, FM transmitter is fitted in the vehicle at night when it is parked in the car porch or car park. The receiver unit with CXA1019, a single IC-based FM radio module, which is freely available in the market at reasonable rate, is kept inside. Receiver is tuned to the transmitter's frequency. When the transmitter is on and the signals are being received by FM radio receiver, no hissing noise is available at the output of receiver. Thus transistor T2 (BC548) does not conduct. This results in the relay driver transistor T3 getting its forward base bias via 10k resistor R5 and the relay gets energised. When an intruder tries to drive the car and takes it a few metres away from the car porch, the radio link between the car (transmitter) and alarm (receiver) is broken. As a result FM radio module gene-rates hissing noise. Hissing AC signals are coupled to relay switching circ- uit via audio transformer. These AC signals are rectified and filtered by diode D1 and capacitor C8, and the resulting positive DC voltage provides a forward bias to transistor T2. Thus transistor T2 conducts, and it pulls the base of relay driver transistor T3 to ground level. The relay thus gets de-activated and the alarm connected via N/C contacts of relay is switched on. If, by chance, the intruder finds out about the wireless alarm and disconnects the transmitter from battery, still remote alarm remains activated because in the absence of signal, the receiver continues to produce hissing noise at its output. So the burglar alarm is fool-proof and highly reliable

Download Circuit Diagram : http://www.ziddu.com/download/2280900/wireleddcarralarm.gif.html

PBS Switch Debouncing Circuit

2008-09-15T08:15:00.002-07:00

The 555 circuit can be re-triggered if the input is held low longer than the output pulse. To prevent this happening, I have included a further timing circuit comprised of the 1Meg resistor and 47n capacitor. Normally, the 47n capacitor is discharged via the 1 Meg resistor. When the switch is pressed the capacitor quickly charges and provides a brief negative pulse to the 555 input. When the capacitor is fully charged, the potential across the voltage divider formed by the 10k and 1Meg resistors is insufficient to retrigger the monostable. Releasing the switch quickly discharges the capacitor. The output of a 555 monostable is suitable for connecting to TTL and CMOS logic circuits.

Download Schematic Diagram and Part List :
http://www.ziddu.com/download/2175163/PBSSwitchDebouncingCircuit.pdf.html

Nicad Battery Charger

2008-09-15T08:06:00.000-07:00

This simple charger uses a single transistor as a constant current source. The voltage across the pair of 1N4148 diodes biases the base of the BD140 medium power transistor. The base - emitter voltage of the transistor and the forward voltage drop across the diodes are relatively stable. The charging current is approximately 15mA or 45mA with the switch closed. This suits most 1.5V and 9V rechargeable batteries. The transformer should have a secondary rating of 12V ac at 0.5amp, the primary should be 220/240volts for Europe or 120volts ac for North America.

Download Schematic Diagram and Part List :
http://www.ziddu.com/download/2175121/NicadBatteryCharger.pdf.html

Video Amplifier

2008-09-15T08:02:00.000-07:00

Download Schematic Diagram and PartList of Video Amplfier

http://www.ziddu.com/download/2174640/Videoamplifier.pdf.html

Traffic Light Project

2008-09-15T07:53:00.000-07:00

Traffic Light Project
This project operates red, amber and green LEDs in the
correct sequence for a single UK traffic light. The time
taken for the complete red - red & amber - green - amber
sequence can be varied from about 7s to about 2½
minutes by adjusting the 1M preset. Some amber LEDs
emit light that is almost red so you may prefer to use a
yellow LED. The 555 astable circuit provides clock
pulses for the 4017 counter which has ten outputs (Q0 to
Q9). Each output becomes high in turn as the clock
pulses are received. Appropriate outputs are combined
with diodes to supply the amber and green LEDs. The
red LED is connected to the ÷10 output which is high for
the first 5 counts (Q0-Q4 high), this saves using 5 diodes
for red and simplifies the circuit.

Download Schematic Diagram and Part List :
http://www.ziddu.com/download/2174637/trafficlight.pdf.html

Temperature Switch Project

2008-09-15T07:44:00.000-07:00

Temperature Switch Project
This project will provide you an understanding of the use of germanium diode and how it works compared to the more common silicon diode. It works on the principle that as the temperature surrounding the germanium diode increases, the back resistance decreases sharply.
At room temperature, the germanium diode D1 has a typical back resistance of 10K ohm. At this value, the base of transistor Q1 is turned ON, causing transistor Q2 to turn ON as well. When this happens, the base of transistor Q3 is kept to ground causing it to turn OFF hence the buzzer is OFF.
When the temperature of the surrounding increases, the back resistance of the germanium diode D1 decreases sharply causing the base of transistor Q1 to pull down to near ground potential. This cause the transistors Q1 and Q2 to turn OFF. Transistor Q3 is now forward bias through resistor R2 and diode D2. This caused the buzzer to turn ON indicating that the ambient temperature has risen. The sensitivity of the circuit can be adjusted by adjusting variable resistor VR1 and subjecting diode D1 to a temperature that will trigger the buzzer.

Download Schematic Diagram and Partlist :
http://www.ziddu.com/download/2174632/TemperatureSwitchProject.pdf.html

Simple Home Security Monitorin Project

2008-09-15T07:39:00.000-07:00

Simple Home Security Monitoring Project
This project is a standalone simple home security monitoring project that will trigger a buzzer when the magnetic contact is opened. Magnetic contacts are usually NC (Normally Closed) and are used on doors and windows. They consists of two parts namely a magnet and a reed switch. When the reed switch is in close proximity to the magnet, the switch will close and vice versa. Usually the magnet is fitted to the door and the reed switch is fitted to the door frame in close proximity to one another such that when the door is closed, the two parts are in close contact and hence the switch is closed. When the door is opened, the magnet will be a distance away from the reed switch and hence the switch will open.

Download Schematic Diagram and part list :

http://www.ziddu.com/download/2174628/SimpleHomeSecurityMonitoringProject.pdf.html

Simple but reliable car battery tester

2008-09-15T07:35:00.000-07:00

This circuit uses the popular and easy to find LM3914 IC. This IC is very simple to drive, needs no voltage regulators (it has a built in voltage regulator) and can be powered from almost every source. This circuit is very easy to explain: When the test button is pressed, the Car battery voltage is feed into a high impedance voltage divider. His purpose is to divide 12V to 1,25V (or lower values to lower values). This solution is better than letting the internal voltage regulator set the 12V sample voltage to be feed into the internal voltage divider simply because it cannot regulate 12V when the voltage drops lower (linear regulators only step down). Simply wiring with no adjust, the regulator provides stable 1,25V which is fed into the precision internal resistor cascade to generate sample voltages for the internal comparators. Anyway the default setting let you to measure voltages
between 8 and 12V but you can measure even from 0V to 12V setting the offset trimmer to 0 (but i think that under 9 volt your car would not start). There is a smoothing capacitor (4700uF 16V) it is used to adsorb EMF noise produced from the ignition coil if you are measuring the battery during the engine working. Diesel engines would not need it, but i'm not sure. If you like more a point graph rather than a bar graph simply disconnect pin 9 on the IC (MODE) from power. The calculations are simple (default) For the first comparator the voltage is : 0,833 V corresponding to 8 V * * * * * voltage is : 0,875 V corresponding to 8,4 V ... .. for the last comparator the voltage is : 1,25 V corresponding to 12 V Have fun, learn and don't let you car battery discharge... ;-)

Download Schematic Diagram
http://www.ziddu.com/download/2174626/Simplebutreliablecarbatterytester.pdf.html

Power Failure Alarm Project

2008-09-15T07:29:00.000-07:00

Power Failure Alarm Project
This project is a power supply monitoring device that will trigger a buzzer when the mains supply cuts off. At the same time, the light emitting diode will be turned ON. This device is helpful to inform the loss of power supply to some critical installation such as a pump in a fish tank. Once the buzzer sound, one will know that there is a loss of power supply and actions need to be taken to rectify the situation by providing alternative power supply or relocating the installation.
Circuit Description
The circuit shown below consists of a AC relay. If the mains input is 120V AC, use a 120V AC relay. If the mains input is 240V AC, use a 240V AC relay. The relay is a Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) type where the COM will be connected to NC terminal if it is not energised. Once energised, the COM terminal will be connected to the NO terminal.

Download Schematic Diagram
http://www.ziddu.com/download/2174622/PowerFailureAlarmProject.pdf.html

LED Torch

2008-09-15T07:18:00.000-07:00

LED Torch.
A common problem with small torches is the short life-span both of the batteries and the bulb. The average incandescent torch, for instance, consumes around 2 Watts. The LED Torch in Fig. 1 consumes just 24 mW, giving it more than 80 times longer service from 4 AA alkaline batteries (that is, up to one month's continuous service). Although the torchs light output is modest, it is nonetheless quite sufficient to illuminate a pathway for walking.
The LED Torch is based on a 7555 timer running in astable mode (do not use an ordinary 555). A white LED (Maplin order code NR73) produces 400 mcd light output, which, when focussed, can illuminate objects at 30 metres. Try Conrad Electronic for what appears to be a stronger white LED (order code 15 37 45-11).
A convex lens with short focal length is placed in front of the LED to focus the beam. If banding occurs at the beams perimeter, use another very short focal length lens directly in front of the LED to smooth the beam.

Download Schematic Diagram :
http://www.ziddu.com/download/2174612/LEDTorch.pdf.html

Free Hidden Electricity

2008-09-15T07:09:00.000-07:00

FREE Hidden Electricity!
This Instructable will show you how to tap into a FREE source of electricity! All you need is a phone line! All phone lines have a constant flow of voltage, around 40-70 volts (up to 100 volts when it rings!), but you can't just plug stuff into it and expect it to work. You can really mess with your phone system by doing that. I discovered how to do it the right way
What You Need...
1. Small project enclosure 2. (1) 240ohm resistor 3. (1) 510ohm resistor 4. (1) LM317L Regulator 5. (1) KBP210 Bridge Rectifier 6. (2) Phone line cables

Download Schematic Diagram :

http://www.ziddu.com/download/2174617/phoneelectricity.pdf.html

activate and unlock iPhone with 1.1.1

2008-09-14T01:10:00.000-07:00

This tutorial assumes that your iPhone has firmware version 1.1.1. If you are unsure, here is how to check: On the emergency dial screen dial *3001#12345#* and tap Versions. Firware version should be 04.01.13_G. If it's 03.14.08_G you have v1.0.2 and need to update it to 1.1.1 first.

Bypass activation and prepare phone for software installation

Make sure you have a SIM-card with PIN turned off, and power on your phone (the supplied AT&T card works fine).
On the activation screen, slide for emergency and dial: *#301# to make the phone call itself. (If the incoming call dialog quickly disappears but it keeps ringing, just dial 0 (remove *#301# first), and it will call itself)
Answer the call, and tap on Hold
Phone will call it self again, tap Decline. You will now be returned to the normal dialer.
Tap on contacts, and tap the + icon to add a new. The only info you are going to add to this contact are two URL's. To add a URL, tap Add new URL. The first URL is prefs followed by a colon: prefs: and the second is i.unlock.no. Tap Save.
Your contact now has two "web pages" - tap on the first one (prefs:). This will take you to the settings dialog. The reason you want this, is because you need to connect to a Wi-Fi network, so tap on Wi-Fi, and get connected to a network, and make sure the icon on top of the screen is indicating that you are connected. While you are in the settings dialog, you should also set: General → Auto-Lock → Never.
Now, press the home button, and again, slide for emergency dial 0, Answer the call, Hold and Decline the new call so that you get to the contacts. Tap on your contact (No Name), and this time tap on the other home page, i.unlock.no
Safari will launch and show you a webpage. Tap on Tap here to jailbreak your iPhone
Phone will return to activation screen and after a few seconds the phone should restart.
If the phone does not restart after waiting a full minute, please make sure that you have your phone connected to the computer and try again.
When the phone starts again, it should no longer say slide for emergency, but rather Slide to unlock It means it was successfull! Activation is now bypassed, and phone prepared for software installation! (If you are going to use an AT&T SIM, you won't need to do the next step.)

Unlock the SIM-lock on jailbroken 1.1.1

Open installer, and install the update if prompted.
Go to sources and tap Edit and Add
Add this URL: http://i.unlock.no
Tap Done and then Refresh
Go to Install (at bottom) and scroll down to the Unlocking Tools category and install AnySIM
When installed you can press the home button, and you will find a new AnySIM icon on your home screen. Launch it and follow the instructions.
The unlocking process will take about 5-10 minutes, in the end it should say it was successful!
To clean up your phone, launch Installer and uninstall AnySIM. Then go to Settings → General → Auto-Lock and set it to a prefered value.

Congratulations, you are done!

How to jailbreak 1.1.2 or 1.1.3.

Regardless of whether you want to use 1.1.2 or 1.1.3 firmware, you must start with a jailbroken 1.1.1. Downgrade instructions are available here and Jailbreak for 1.1.1 here. When done continue reading here. Note: even if you want to use 1.1.3, you need to upgrade to and jailbreak 1.1.2 first. You should also unlock your 1.1.2 before upgrading.

Upgrading to 1.1.2

On a 1.1.1 phone, open Installer and install OktoPrep located in the Tweaks 1.1.1 category.
Download the 1.1.2 firmware file from Apple: iPhone1,1_1.1.2_3B48b_Restore.ipsw (right click link and save target)
Connect your phone to your computer and open iTunes on the "summary" page.
Hold down the SHIFT key (Windows) or Option/ALT-key (Mac) on your keyboard while clicking on the Upgrade button (not the restore button!). A file browsing dialog should appear, and you must select the firmware file you downloaded in the previous step.
While the phone is upgrading, download the 1.1.2 jailbreak archive and extract the files to your computer.
If you don't already have Java on your computer, you need to download and install Java runtime first. If you are unsure, check the jailbreak.jar file in the archive you extracted previously - it should have an icon with a coffee cup
When your phone is done upgrading, and shows the Slide for emergency screen, you need to launch the jailbreak java application on your computer. Windows users double click on the windows.bat file, while Mac users can double click on jailbreak.jar file.
An application should appear, with a "Jailbreak" button - click on it and wait while it's jailbreaking. This will take a few minutes, and your phone will restart a few times at the end.
Your phone should now show "Slide to unlock" instead of emergency. If it does, everything was successfull.

If are going to use TurboSIM or a similar SIM-adapter you don't need to unlock - it should work right away. If your phone did not have 1.1.2 when you bought it (old bootloader), you can unlock it to work with any sim-card. To do so, install anySIM 1.2.1u located in Utilities category. Open Settings enable Airplane Mode (very important!) (and set Auto lock to never if you haven't already) and then you can launch anySIM and follow the instructions shown.

Important: 1.1.2 has a bug that causes phone/SMS to crash when used in foreign countries. To fix this, you must Install and run iWorld found in the Tweaks (1.1.2) in Installer. Run the application and select your country. When phone has rebooted you can uninstall iWorld.

Upgrading to 1.1.3

This requires that you already have jailbroken 1.1.2. Open Installer, and Install Official 1.1.3 Upgrader found in the System category. This will download the entire 165MB firmware over Wi-Fi, patch it, and upgrade your phone automaticly. So it may take some time - normally 10-30 minutes. When done your phone should reboot directly to a jailbroken 1.1.3 firmware.

[1.1.1] If you want to enable the International menu, install Enable International menu which is found in the Unlocking Tools category. This will let you choose keyboards, and set your phone to use your prefered regional settings, like date and phone number formatting. Be alerted though - it looks like Apple haven't finished this feature completely yet (which is probably why it's deactivated) so there may be some issues. In my case Fahrenheit and Celsius is mixed up in the Weather application for instance!
[1.1.1] By default, the EDGE settings found in Settings → General → Network → EDGE are not saved when phone is restarted. To fix this, install EDGE Settings fix which is found in the Unlocking Tools category..
If YouTube does not work ("You must first connect to iTunes..."), try to install YouTube activation which is found in the Unlocking Tools category. Also make sure that the phone has correct date.
If you for some reason need to deliver your phone to Apple (service etc.), i recommend that you revert the unlock first so that they (hopefully) can't see it's been unlocked. Install OneSIM which is found in the Unlocking Tools category, and tap on the new icon it creates to run it. After you are done, do a restore in iTunes.

Fix iPhone Application crashing issue

2008-09-14T01:09:00.000-07:00

If you are having trouble with an iPhone application downloaded from the App Store where it opens up and immediately exits (crashes) every time you try to launch it then here are some solutions that you might want to try out to resolve the problem

It appears that the reason for the application crashes that many iPhone users have reported is due to a problem with Digital Rights Management (DRM) that is embedded in each iPhone app installed via the App Store.

There are some solutions that you can try to fix the problem:

Reboot iPhone

Perform a hard reboot of your iPhone, i.e turn your iPhone off completely, by pressing and holding the Sleep/Wake button (on top ) for a few seconds then slide the red slider. Turn it back on by holding the Sleep/Wake button until the Apple logo appears. This can clear potentially problematic data, preventing some type of crashes.

Delete the iPhone Application:

If the above solution does not help, try deleting the application from your iPhone and then re-sync it back to your iPhone.

To delete an application from your iPhone, simply press and hold on the application icon on your iPhone's home screen until it begins to wiggle along with other application icons (just as you would to rearrange them). A small black circle with an "x" on it should appear on the top-left corner of the icon. Tap on the "x" of the iPhone app that is giving you trouble to uninstall it.

When thats done, sync your iPhone with iTunes which should result in the application you just deleted to get synced to your iPhone again.

Few iPhone users have observed that re-downloading the deleted application directly from iPhone's App Store (rather than using iTunes on your computer) also helps in resolving the crashing problem.

Restore iPhone:

If deleting the application or full reboot does not resolve the crashing issue, try performing a restore of your iPhone. Connect it to your Mac or PC and, in iTunes, click the Restore button under the Summary tab. Please do remember restoring the phone will erase contacts, calendars, photos and other data on the phone, but will restore automatically backed-up information including text messages, notes, call history, contact favorites, sound settings, widget settings, etc.

Boost Your iPhone 3G's Signal Strength

2008-09-14T01:05:00.000-07:00

We were assuming that Apple's iPhone 3G will automatically fall back to 2G in case there is no 3G coverage for voice and data connections.

But based on complaints from many iPhone 3G users, it appears that iPhone 3G is not quick enough in switching from 3G to 2G which could result in low or no signal. So if you are observing low signal strength on your iPhone, then there is a simple but manual trick to solve the problem.

This comment over at iPhone Atlas reader, w4rmk confirms that iPhone 3G is not quick enough in switching from 3G to 2G.

W4rmk wrote "Yesterday I tried to make a phone call (new iPhone 3G). I was standing outside in the Denver, Colorado area (which has 3G) and the display said “No Signal”. I walked around waiting for a signal to come in for about 5min with no luck. I went into settings and turned off 3G and immediately got 4 bars on the edge network. So the iPhone is failing to switch to edge when there is no 3G connection."

I am a little surprised that iPhone 3G did not switch to 2G automatically.

So in case you observe low or no signal strength on your new iPhone 3G, try turning off 3G manually, this will force iPhone to switch to 2G. It might take few seconds but you could see a boost in your iPhone's signal strength as w4rmk observed. (The assumption here is that you are in an area with good 2G coverage).

iPhone 3G not switching between 3G and 2G quickly could be some technical issue as I have observed similar behavior with other 3G phones as well, lets hope Apple finds a solution, as turning 3G off manually is quite painful.

Battery Life Tips of your iPhone

2008-09-14T00:37:00.000-07:00

The iPhone 3G’s battery life is either terrific or terrible, depending on your
point of view. When accessing the 3G network, it gets longer battery life than
any other phone—and yet that’s only 5 hours of talk time, compared with 8
on the original iPhone.
But never mind all that; the point is that if you’re not careful, the iPhone 3G’s
battery might not even make it through a single day without needing a
recharge. So knowing how to scale back its power appetite could come in
extremely handy.
The biggest wolfers of electricity on your iPhone are its screen and its wireless
features. Therefore, you can get longer life from each charge by:
• Dimming the screen. In bright light, the screen brightens (but uses
more battery power). In dim light, it darkens.
You can use this information to your advantage. By covering up the sensor
as you unlock the phone, you force it into a low-power, dim-screen
setting (because the phone believes that it’s in a dark room). Or by holding
it up to a light as you wake it, you get full brightness. In both cases,
you’ve saved all the taps and navigation it would have taken you to find
the manual brightness slider in Settings.
• Turning off 3G. If you don’t see a 3 icon on your iPhone 3G’s status bar,
then you’re not in a 3G hot spot , and you’re not getting any
benefit from the phone’s battery-hungry 3G radio. By turning it off, you’ll
double the length of your iPhone 3G’s battery power, from 5 hours of talk
time to 10.
To do so, from the Home screen, tap SettingsÆGeneralÆNetworkÆ
Enable 3G Off. Yes, this is sort of a hassle, but if you’re anticipating a long
day and you can’t risk the battery dying halfway through, it might be
worth doing. After all, most 3G phones don’t even let you turn off their
3G circuitry.
• Turning off Wi-Fi. From the Home screen, tap SettingsÆWi-FiÆOn/Off.
If you’re not in a wireless hot spot anyway, you may as well stop the thing
from using its radio. Or, at the very least, tell the iPhone to stop searching
for Wi-Fi networks it can connect to..
• Turning off the phone, too. In Airplane mode, you shut off both Wi-Fi
and the cellular radios, saving the most power of all.
• Turning off Bluetooth. If you’re not using a Bluetooth headset, then for
heaven’s sake shut down that Bluetooth radio. In Settings, tap General,
and turn off Bluetooth.
• Turning off GPS. If you won’t be needing the iPhone to track your location,
save it the power required to operate the GPS chip and the other
location circuits. In Settings, tap General, and turn off Location Services.
• Turning off “push” data. If your email, calendar, and address book are
kept constantly synced with your Macs or PCs, then you’ve probably gotten
yourself involved with Yahoo Mail, Microsoft Exchange
or MobileMe . It’s pretty amazing to know that your iPhone is
constantly kept current with the mothership—but all that continual sniffing
of the airwaves, looking for updates, costs you battery power. If you
can do without the immediacy, visit SettingsÆFetch New Data; consider
turning off Push and letting your iPhone check for new information, say,
every 15, 30, or 60 minutes.

iPhone’s existencei

2008-09-14T00:36:00.001-07:00

In the first year of the iPhone’s existence, Apple sold 6 million of them;
brought the thing to 70 countries; and inspired an industry of misbegotten
iPhone lookalikes from other companies. By the end of Year
One, you could type iPhone into Google and get 229 million hits.
Now there’s a new iPhone, the iPhone 3G. More importantly, there’s a new
version of the iPhone’s software, called iPhone 2.0. And then there’s the
iPhone App Store, which offers thousands of add-on programs written by
individuals, software companies, and everything in between.
This is huge. Remember how mystified everyone was when Apple called
its music player the iPod—instead of, say, iMusic or iSongs or something?
The reason was that Apple had much bigger plans for the iPod—photos,
videos, documents, and so on. Maybe they should have saved that name
for the iPhone.
Yes, the iPhone is still an iPod. And it’s still the best Internet phone you’ve
ever seen. It shows fully formatted email (with attachments, thank you)
and displays entire Web pages with fonts and design intact. It’s still tricked
out with a tilt sensor, proximity sensor, light sensor, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, and
that amazing multitouch screen.
Therefore, it’s still a calendar, address book, calculator, alarm clock, stopwatch,
stock tracker, traffic reporter, RSS reader, and weather forecaster. It
even stands in for a flashlight and, with the screen off, a pocket mirror.
But now, thanks to the App Store, the iPhone is a fast, wicked fun pocket
computer. All those free or cheap programs can turn it into a medical reference,
musical keyboard, time tracker, remote control, voice recorder, tip
calculator, e-book reader, and so on. And whoa, those games! Hundreds of
them, with smooth 3-D graphics and tilt control.
All of this sends the iPhone’s utility and power through the roof. Calling it
a phone is practically an insul

Yawcam

2008-09-12T13:51:00.000-07:00

This might be useful for home, small business, or shop owners here that use their webcam for surveillance purposes.

What is Yawcam?
Yawcam is a shortening for Yet Another WebCAM software, and that's exactly what it is ;-)
More precise Yawcam is a webcam software for windows written in java. The main ideas for Yawcam are to keep it simple and easy to use but to include all the usual features.

Yawcam is completely free to use!

Yawcam features:
.: Video streaming
.: Image snapshots
.: Built-in webserver
.: Motion detection
.: Ftp-upload
.: Text and image overlays
.: Password protection
.: Online announcements for communities
.: Scheduler for online time
.: Multi languange

Download Link : http://www.ziddu.com/download/2151226/yawcam_install.exe.html

Replacing the Logic Board of your iPod

2008-09-10T12:33:00.000-07:00

When your iPod was young, did life seem so wonderful? A
miracle? Was it beautiful? Magical? That’s because the logic
board was working perfectly. But logic boards are components
like any other, and they go bad from time to time. If yours is
making you clinical, cynical, or fanatical because it’s not so
logical or dependable (in fact, it’s a vegetable), replacing the
logic board is the cure, as we show in this chapter. The cure
to Supertramp, however, we have not yet discovered.

Check the Signs of a Bad Logic Board
The logic board is the brain of your iPod. No joke—your iPod is a miniature
computer. The logic board contains the microprocessor as well as the connections
to the various other components and systems: the battery, the hard drive or flash
memory, the display, the audio, the data ports, and so on. If something goes
wrong with your logic board, it’s not unlike massive head trauma in a human.
A bad logic board reveals itself in different ways. Your iPod might not turn on,
even when you plug it into a charger. If the iPod does turn on, it might show the
sad face or the folder icon, or it might freeze on the Apple logo.
It’s hard to diagnose a bad logic board from the symptoms alone, because
they’re the same symptoms that you get from other problems. Before you
decide that the logic board is bad, be sure to rule out other possible causes.
For instance, if the iPod doesn’t turn on, check out the battery, or if you get
the folder icon, you might want to look into the hard drive or the software.
Restoring your iPod in iTunes might do the trick.
When you’re reasonably convinced that the other components are in good
working order, the logic board looks more and more like the culprit.

To replace the logic board in a first-generation iPod:
1. Open the iPod according to the instructions .
2. Pull the battery from the back of the hard drive. There is adhesive
holding it down.
3. Unplug the battery from the logic board

4. Carefully slide the hard drive from the orange hard drive connector.
5. Pull the hard drive from the iPod .
6. Find the four T6 Torx screws in the logic board. A large piece of rubber covers one of
them. Remove this piece of rubber to expose the fourth screw .
7. With your T6 Torx screwdriver, remove all four screws

My Ferrari 4000 Series Laptop

2008-09-09T12:32:00.000-07:00

Acer goes from the brilliant red design of the Acer Ferrari 3000 to a more conservative—but just as sleek—black checkered design. It retains some of the cool-looking red streaks along the side and front edge of the notebook, and yes, the yellow prancing horse emblem still graces the center of the notebook. The cover is made from carbon fiber, which is stronger and lighter than aluminum. (Acer uses it only in its Ferrari line.) The interior of the Ferrari 4000 has a rubberized coating, perhaps emulating the look of Formula One tires. The keyboard has an ergonomic smile contour to it, which is okay for typing but takes a few minutes to get used to. The only real design complaint we have is that the mouse buttons are a bit noisy when pressed.

Though not as eye-popping as many of today's specially treated screens, such as the Editors' Choice-winning HP Pavilion dv4000's ($1429) BrightView screen, the Ferrari's 15.4-inch LCD is vivid enough for movie watching, even with the matte finish, thanks to its high resolution (1,680-by-1,050).

The 6.6-pound Ferrari 4000 comes with a good feature set, including four USB ports, a FireWire port, and a 5-in-1 card reader (MMC, MS, MS Pro, SD, XD). Video connections include both VGA and DVI-D ports. Built-in Bluetooth and Wi-Fi 802.11g are included, as is a dual-layer DVD±RW drive. The Toshiba Qosmio F25 ($1, 999) has a greater range of AV ports, including a TV tuner. The Ferrari 4000 also comes with an impressively large and fast 100GB hard drive (5,400 rpm). Many of today's notebook hard drives, like the 80GB drive (4,200 rpm) found in the HP dv4000, are smaller and slower.

With hardware like the 1.8-GHz Turion 64 ML-34 processor, double the memory (1GB DDR RAM), and a faster hard drive, the Ferrari 4000 edged out the HP dv4000 on our SYSmark 2004 tests. The Ferrari 4000's terrific graphics chipset trounced the dv4000's integrated Intel chipset and helped the system achieve impressive gaming results. Battery life reached 3 hours 43 minutes, thanks mostly to the 71-Wh battery.

The Acer Ferrari 4000 has a great new look, and new hardware under the hood makes it purr. It's only a matter of time before Jeff Gordon and Danica Patrick get their hands on one.

Acer Inc.

http://www.acer.com

Type: Gaming, General Purpose, Media
Operating System: MS Windows XP Professional
Processor Name: Mobile AMD Turion 64 ML-34
Processor Speed: 1.8 GHz
RAM: 1 GB
Weight: 6.6 lb
Screen Size: 15.4 inches
Screen Size Type: widescreen
Graphics Card: ATI Radeon x700
Storage Capacity: 100 GB
Networking Options: 802.11g
Primary Optical Drive: Dual-Layer DVD+/-RW

Keyboard shortcuts for Windows

2008-09-09T09:34:00.000-07:00

Windows system key combinations
• F1: Help
• CTRL+ESC: Open Start menu
• ALT+TAB: Switch between open programs
• ALT+F4: Quit program
• SHIFT+DELETE: Delete item permanently

Windows program key combinations
• CTRL+C: Copy
• CTRL+X: Cut
• CTRL+V: Paste
• CTRL+Z: Undo
• CTRL+B: Bold
• CTRL+U: Underline
• CTRL+I: Italic

Mouse click/keyboard modifier combinations for shell objects
• SHIFT+right click: Displays a shortcut menu containing alternative commands
• SHIFT+double click: Runs the alternate default command (the second item on the menu)
• ALT+double click: Displays properties
• SHIFT+DELETE: Deletes an item immediately without placing it in the Recycle Bin

General keyboard-only commands
• F1: Starts Windows Help
• F10: Activates menu bar options
• SHIFT+F10 Opens a shortcut menu for the selected item (this is the same as right-clicking an object
• CTRL+ESC: Opens the Start menu (use the ARROW keys to select an item)
• CTRL+ESC or ESC: Selects the Start button (press TAB to select the taskbar, or press SHIFT+F10 for a context menu)
• ALT+DOWN ARROW: Opens a drop-down list box
• ALT+TAB: Switch to another running program (hold down the ALT key and then press the TAB key to view the task-switching window)
• SHIFT: Press and hold down the SHIFT key while you insert a CD-ROM to bypass the automatic-run feature
• ALT+SPACE: Displays the main window's System menu (from the System menu, you can restore, move, resize, minimize, maximize, or close the window)
• ALT+- (ALT+hyphen): Displays the Multiple Document Interface (MDI) child window's System menu (from the MDI child window's System menu, you can restore, move, resize, minimize, maximize, or close the child window)
• CTRL+TAB: Switch to the next child window of a Multiple Document Interface (MDI) program
• ALT+underlined letter in menu: Opens the menu
• ALT+F4: Closes the current window
• CTRL+F4: Closes the current Multiple Document Interface (MDI) window
• ALT+F6: Switch between multiple windows in the same program (for example, when the Notepad Find dialog box is displayed, ALT+F6 switches between the Find dialog box and the main Notepad window)

Shell objects and general folder/Windows Explorer shortcuts
For a selected object: • F2: Rename object
• F3: Find all files
• CTRL+X: Cut
• CTRL+C: Copy
• CTRL+V: Paste
• SHIFT+DELETE: Delete selection immediately, without moving the item to the Recycle Bin
• ALT+ENTER: Open the properties for the selected object

To copy a file
Press and hold down the CTRL key while you drag the file to another folder.
To create a shortcut
Press and hold down CTRL+SHIFT while you drag a file to the desktop or a folder.
Back to the top

General folder/shortcut control
• F4: Selects the Go To A Different Folder box and moves down the entries in the box (if the toolbar is active in Windows Explorer)
• F5: Refreshes the current window.
• F6: Moves among panes in Windows Explorer
• CTRL+G: Opens the Go To Folder tool (in Windows 95 Windows Explorer only)
• CTRL+Z: Undo the last command
• CTRL+A: Select all the items in the current window
• BACKSPACE: Switch to the parent folder
• SHIFT+click+Close button: For folders, close the current folder plus all parent folders

Windows Explorer tree control
• Numeric Keypad *: Expands everything under the current selection
• Numeric Keypad +: Expands the current selection
• Numeric Keypad -: Collapses the current selection.
• RIGHT ARROW: Expands the current selection if it is not expanded, otherwise goes to the first child
• LEFT ARROW: Collapses the current selection if it is expanded, otherwise goes to the parent

Properties control
• CTRL+TAB/CTRL+SHIFT+TAB: Move through the property tabs

Accessibility shortcuts
• Press SHIFT five times: Toggles StickyKeys on and off
• Press down and hold the right SHIFT key for eight seconds: Toggles FilterKeys on and off
• Press down and hold the NUM LOCK key for five seconds: Toggles ToggleKeys on and off
• Left ALT+left SHIFT+NUM LOCK: Toggles MouseKeys on and off
• Left ALT+left SHIFT+PRINT SCREEN: Toggles high contrast on and off

Microsoft Natural Keyboard keys
• Windows Logo: Start menu
• Windows Logo+R: Run dialog box
• Windows Logo+M: Minimize all
• SHIFT+Windows Logo+M: Undo minimize all
• Windows Logo+F1: Help
• Windows Logo+E: Windows Explorer
• Windows Logo+F: Find files or folders
• Windows Logo+D: Minimizes all open windows and displays the desktop
• CTRL+Windows Logo+F: Find computer
• CTRL+Windows Logo+TAB: Moves focus from Start, to the Quick Launch toolbar, to the system tray (use RIGHT ARROW or LEFT ARROW to move focus to items on the Quick Launch toolbar and the system tray)
• Windows Logo+TAB: Cycle through taskbar buttons
• Windows Logo+Break: System Properties dialog box
• Application key: Displays a shortcut menu for the selected item

Microsoft Natural Keyboard with IntelliType software installed
• Windows Logo+L: Log off Windows
• Windows Logo+P: Starts Print Manager
• Windows Logo+C: Opens Control Panel
• Windows Logo+V: Starts Clipboard
• Windows Logo+K: Opens Keyboard Properties dialog box
• Windows Logo+I: Opens Mouse Properties dialog box
• Windows Logo+A: Starts Accessibility Options (if installed)
• Windows Logo+SPACEBAR: Displays the list of Microsoft IntelliType shortcut keys
• Windows Logo+S: Toggles CAPS LOCK on and off

Dialog box keyboard commands
• TAB: Move to the next control in the dialog box
• SHIFT+TAB: Move to the previous control in the dialog box
• SPACEBAR: If the current control is a button, this clicks the button. If the current control is a check box, this toggles the check box. If the current control is an option, this selects the option.
• ENTER: Equivalent to clicking the selected button (the button with the outline)
• ESC: Equivalent to clicking the Cancel button
• ALT+underlined letter in dialog box item: Move to the corresponding item

How to use multiple iPods with one computer i

2008-09-09T08:46:00.000-07:00

How to use multiple iPods with one computer

Summary
Do you want to use more than one iPod with the same computer? You can! In fact there are a couple of different ways you can do it.

Products Affected
iPod, iTunes 7 for Windows, iTunes 7 for Mac, Windows

Method One
If you share your computer with other people, one solution is to maintain separate user accounts on the computer for each person. This is useful especially if each user has different tastes in music; users can maintain separate, personalized iTunes music libraries and can customize their iPods accordingly.

Mac OS X users:
See "Mac OS X: How to Share a Computer with Other Users" to learn how to set up additional user accounts.

Windows users:
Look in your computer's Help documentation to learn how to set up additional user accounts. To locate this information, do the following:

Click the Start Menu, and then click Help or Help and Support.
Enter new user in the Search field.
Press Return.
If you create multiple user accounts on one computer but want the same music to be available in iTunes for all users, see "iTunes: How to share music between different accounts on a single computer."

Method Two
You may use multiple iPods on a computer without the need to create multiple user accounts. To do this, you can set iTunes to update each iPod with only certain playlists. This method allows you to put all your music on, say, your iPod and keep your iPod shuffle updated with only your workout music. Here's how to do this with iTunes 7:

Create a new iTunes playlist for each iPod that contains all the music that you want to send to that particular iPod. Learn more about how to create playlists here.
Learn how to Sync your iPod, read the iPod Tutorial Steps section.
Note: iTunes for Windows does not support having multiple iPods connected simultaneously.

Method Three
Create a separate iTunes library for each iPod Note: It is important that you make a new iTunes Library file. Do not just make a copy of your existing iTunes Library file. If iTunes is open, quit it.

Mac users: Hold down the Option key while you open iTunes.
Windows users: Hold down the Shift key while you open iTunes.
In the dialog that appears, do the following:
Click Create Library.
Name and save the alternate library file. iTunes opens with your brand new library file.
Open iTunes Preferences.
Click the Advanced tab and then click the General tab.
De-select Copy files to iTunes Music folder when adding to library checkbox if it is selected and click OK. This will prevent iTunes from creating duplicate copies of your existing media files in the new library folder.
Add the specific media files you want on your iPod to iTunes either by dragging them into iTunes or using the Add to Library option in the File menu.
Once you have the iTunes LIbrary just how you want it, connect and sync iPod.
Once the sync is complete, quit iTunes.
Mac users: Hold down the Option key while you open iTunes.
Windows users: Hold down the Shift key while you open iTunes.
Click Choose library.
Choose your original iTunes Library and click Choose (Mac Users) or Open (Windows Users). You can now switch back and forth between the different libraries for different iPods.

source : http://support.apple.com

Check for Drive Compatibility

2008-09-09T07:55:00.000-07:00

Of all the many hard drives on the market today, only a few models are iPodcompatible,
while those that work in certain kind of iPods don’t work in others.
You can divide iPod-compatible hard drives into two categories: OEM and
non-OEM drives. OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. An OEM
hard drive, then, is one of the actual hard drives that Apple buys wholesale
and installs in the iPod at the factory. If you’re going to replace your iPod’s
hard drive, you might as well use the same components that Apple does,
maximizing compatibility and minimizing your headache. As you review your options, keep in mind
that you don’t have to put in the exact same hard drive that you take out. Any
OEM hard drive is as good as any other, just as long as it’s compatible with your
generation of iPod.
Non-OEM hard drives don’t come with any factory-made iPod, but they’re
compatible with the iPod nevertheless. What makes non-OEM hard drives

CAPACITY AND TYPE BRAND MODEL NUMBER COMPATIBILITY
4-gigabyte (GB) Microdrive Hitachi HMS360404D5CF00 First- and second-generation iPod mini
Seagate ST640211CF
6-GB Microdrive Hitachi HMS360606D5CF00 Released for the second-generation iPod mini, but also
Seagate ST660211CF works in the first-generation iPod mini
5-GB hard drive Toshiba MK5002MAL First- and second-generation iPods
10-GB hard drive Toshiba MK1003GAL First-, second-, and third-generation iPods
15-GB hard drive Toshiba MK1504GAL Released for the third-generation iPods, but also works in
the fourth-generation monochrome iPod
20-GB hard drive Toshiba MK2003GAH Second-generation iPod
Toshiba MK2004GAL Third- and fourth-generation monochrome iPods, iPod
photo (fourth-generation color iPod)
Toshiba MK2006GAL Fourth-generation monochrome iPod, iPod photo
(fourth-generation color iPod)
30-GB hard drive Toshiba MK3006GAL Released for the iPod photo (fourth-generation
color iPod), but also works in the fourth-generation
monochrome iPod
Toshiba MK3008GAL iPod video (fifth-generation iPod)
40-GB hard drive Toshiba MK4004GAH Third- and fourth-generation monochrome iPods, iPod
photo (fourth-generation color iPod)
Toshiba MK4006GAH Fourth-generation monochrome iPod, iPod photo
(fourth-generation color iPod)
60-GB hard drive Toshiba MK6006GAH Released for the iPod photo, but also works with the
fourth-generation monochrome iPod
Toshiba MK6008GAH iPod video (fifth-generation iPod)
80-GB hard drive Toshiba MK8010GAH iPod video (fifth-generation iPod)

desirable is their greater storage capacity. For instance, you can get 8 GB of
storage in an iPod mini by using a non-OEM hard drive, while you can bump
up your fifth-generation iPod to 100 GB. (The highest from-the-factory ratings
are 6 GB and 80 GB, respectively.) Some non-OEM hard drives are technically
iPod-compatible, but they require hacks before they’re usable.

Scan Your Hard Drive

2008-09-09T07:52:00.000-07:00

Scanning your hard drive is, by far, the best way to tell if your iPod is
experiencing hard drive issues. The scan should always be step one when
you suspect that the hard drive is bad. Don’t go out and buy a replacement
drive until you’ve completed the scan. It does you no good to pop in a new
hard drive when the old one wasn’t the problem; imagine your surprise when
the iPod has the same stupid issue after you go to the trouble of replacing the
hard drive.
To scan your hard drive:
1. Put the iPod into diagnostic mode. See Chapter 2 for complete instructions.
2. Use the Forward and Reverse buttons to navigate the menu choices until you get
to HDD Scan.
3. Press the Select button to start the scan.
Make yourself comfortable, because this could take a while. A hard drive
scan sets you back 15 minutes to an hour for most models. Occasionally, it
takes longer.
When the scan finishes, your iPod returns HDD Scan Pass or HDD Scan Fail.
Failure indicates a bad hard drive, so go ahead and replace her. If the hard drive
passes, you need to look elsewhere for the source of your problems. Your iPod’s
logic board is the primary suspect now;

Check the Sign ofof a bad Hardrive of your iPod

2008-09-09T07:51:00.000-07:00

Hard drives go bad from wear and tear. The disks, or platters, inside a hard
drive physically spin at an insane rate of speed, which is 3,600 times per minute
on the slow side. Before you’ve used your iPod for five hours, the platters might
have spun a million times. After about a year of regular use, they’ve spun a
billion times. And that’s just with the slowpokes. Faster iPod hard drives spin
4,200 times per minute, while computer hard drives can spin as fast as 7,200,
10,000, or 15,000 times per minute.
How do you know if your iPod’s hard drive is shot? If your iPod shows the sad
iPod face, there’s a good chance that a bad hard drive is the cause. You should
scan the hard drive to make sure.
Occasionally, when you’re loading music to your iPod, it slows down or stops
loading altogether. This might also indicate that your hard drive is bad, but scan
the hard drive before you arrive at that conclusion.
A less subjective way to tell if your hard drive is shot is to put your iPod up
to your ear and listen to it. A bad hard drive often makes a lot of noise, from
a rapid clicking to a kind of grinding. Sometimes this noise is really loud. If
you’ve ever heard it, you know exactly what it sounds like. Marc will never
forget that sound for as long as he lives, because it was the sound of his data
going bye-bye. You know, the data that he didn’t adequately back up.

New iPods Coming Soon

2008-09-09T05:30:00.000-07:00

Is Digg.com founder and Diggnation star Kevin Rose abusing his Apple contacts? This past weekend Kevin blogged about some new stuff being released by Apple next month including new iPods and an iTunes update.
According to Kevin, Apple will announce the following within the next few weeks:
• the iPod nano will take on a slimmer, more rounded look
• the iPod Touch will get an update with a new 2.1 operating system
• Prices of the iPod line will drop to differentiate the product from the iPhone
• iTunes 8.0 will be a major new release with several additional features
• Further out Apple is planning to add Blu-ray support to Mac OS X

Siemens Mobile Code

2008-09-07T13:53:00.001-07:00

C25:

SP unlock *#0003*(secret code 8 digits)#

*#0606# shows you Secret Code, but only without SIM Card.

*#06# for checking the IMEI (International Mobile Equipment Identity)

Resets language to automatic selection : * # 0000 # then Green button

Pin Out (electrical connections)

1- GND
2- SB
3- POWER
4- NC
5- TX
6- RX
7- CLOCK
8- DATA
9- GND MIC
10- HF MIC
11- AUDIO
12- GND AUDIO

Languages:

*#0000#+green phone - choose automaticaly
*#0001#+green phone - English
*#0030#+green phone - Greek
*#0031#+green phone - Netherlands
*#0032#+green phone - French
*#0034#+green phone - Spanish
*#0039#+green phone - Italian
*#0049#+green phone - German
*#0090#+green phone - Turkish

How to change PIN:

**04*old PIN*new PIN*new PIN#

How to check simlock status

*#0606# and then press left soft-key, you will see strange characters, then text ("brak blokad"). If you see for example 260-02, it means the phone is locked to Era GSM. In older models you can use *#06# and see the same information after clicking on left key (you will see IMEI and software version).

S4:

Monitor Mode - how to activate:

Press left soft-key, then 9 (SET UP) 8 (Phone Status). You will see IMEI number, then press left soft-key and in order 7684666 and red phone at the end (monitor mode has been activated). To read information from Monitor Mode - press left soft-key, then 5 (GSM SERVICE) and 6 (Monitor). Monitor mode turns off when you switch off the phone. You must activate it again if you want.

How to see date of software:

Press left soft-key, then 9 (SET UP) 8 (Phone status). You will see IMEI number, then press twice left soft-key, 98, left soft-key, 7684666, red phone (activates Monitor Mode), left soft-key, 56 (turns on Monitor Mode), left soft-key, 98, left soft-key, 7684666, hang up (red phone) >abck to "normal" and then left soft-key, 56.

S6, S8:

If you add to phonebook under 'own phone number' +12022243121 with namez (for example MMI), then you will see something smile.gif

S10, E10:

In phonebook enter +12022243121 as your own phone no. You will see a picture with sun, two palms and greetings.

S15e:

Monitor Mode:

Code: *#7436267*8378# (*#SIEMENS*TEST#)
Hold red phone button until it code disapears.
Menu 3.3.4 Choose frequency.
Menu 3.3.4.1 Automaticaly.
Menu 3.3.4.2 Choose GSM-900
Menu 3.3.4.3 Choose GSM-1800

Menu 10.1 MS info
Menu 10.2 Soft date
Menu 10.2.1 Software version.
Menu 10.2.2 EEProm version.
Menu 10.3 Tst and product info.
Menu 10.3.1 Handware data.
Menu 10.3.2 Date of manufacture
Menu 10.3.3 Service date
Menu 10.3.4 Date of repair.

S25:

Enhanced Full Rate
*#3370# turns on
#3370# turns off

Haft Rate Mode
*#4720# turns on
#4720# turns off.

Languages:

*#0000#+green phone - choose automaticaly
*#0001#+green phone - English
*#0030#+green phone - Greek
*#0031#+green phone - Netherlands
*#0032#+green phone - French
*#0034#+green phone - Spanish
*#0039#+green phone - Italian
*#0049#+green phone - German
*#0090#+green phone - Turkish

How to change PIN2?

**04*old PIN2*new PIN2*new PIN2#

What is my software version?

Menu 8-8-2 press left-softkey when you see IMEI number, or *#06# and then green phone button and then press left soft-key.

How to extend battery life:

IrDA - turn on only when you need.
Turn off automatic network search (6-3)Turn off Vibration alarm.

SP unlock *#0003*(secret code 8 digits)#

*#0606# shows you Secret Code, but only without SIM Card.

*#06# for checking the IMEI (International Mobile Equipment Identity)

Resets language to automatic selection : * # 0000 # then Green button

S25, M35, S35, C35

SP unlock *#0003*(secret code 8 digits)#

*#0606# shows you Secret Code, but only without SIM Card.

*#06# for checking the IMEI (International Mobile Equipment Identity)

Resets language to automatic selection : * # 0000 # then Green button

Siemens Mobile Code

2008-09-07T13:53:00.000-07:00

8GB of Sterling Silver Flash

2008-09-07T13:49:00.000-07:00

8GBs of Sterling Silver Flash

People get attached to their USB flash sticks. They really do. If you don’t use one or have a USB stick then you probably wouldn’t understand the statement. Because of this personal attachment one has with their flash drive, we continually see high-dollar, high-end USB sticks which most deem ridiculous. We call it passion.

Sony Ericson Mobile Code

2008-09-07T13:47:00.000-07:00

T10

*#06# for checking the IMEI (International Mobile Equipment Identity)

>*<<*<* for checking the firmware revision information (software release) >*<<*<*>> n-row text strings. if pressing yes you can check the phones text programming in currently selected language.

Shortcut for Last Dialed call menu

If you for some reason don't want to enter the 'Last Dialed calls menu' by using the 'YES' key you can use the following key
stroke instead: First '0' then '#'.

Access menu without Sim card

To access to the menu in your phone without having a card inside do the following: type **04*0000*0000*0000# When display say "Wrong Pin" press NO and you have access to the all menus: Info, Access, Settings, Calculator, Clock, Keylock On?, Mail, Phone book. NOTE if you try this on your phone may stop at Keylock On? menu and you´ll have to take your battery out to turn the phone on again. And this will not care about Phone lock!

A way to (un)lock your cell phone on to the network(subset):

1. Press <**< style="font-weight: bold;">Warning: The Service Provider (SP) Lock menu is used to lock the cell phone to the SP's SIM card. Once the cell phone is locked to a specific operator, if one inserts a SIM card from a different operator the phone will refuse to accept it! The cell phone will however accept another SIM card from the same operator. To activate/deactivate this lock one needs a special secret code that is not available to the end user. Your phone can be locked to a service provider FOREVER by doing this! If an invalid code is entered all five times, the menu will exit and be deactivated! Any further attempt to activate the NCK/NSCK lock Menu will result in the response "Not allowed"! However the NCK/NSCK lock can be recover through a direct clearing in the EEPROM.

Message Report

When you writing a message, place at the start of it the code *0# and continue with your message. It's job is like nokias report. It gives you information about the sended message.

T18

*#06# for checking the IMEI (International Mobile Equipment Identity) Information you get from the IMEI:

XXXXXX XX XXXXXX X

TAC FAC SNR SP

TAC = Type approval code
FAC = Final assembly code
SNR = Serial number
SP = Spare

To access SIM-Locking menu of your phone, press: < * [CLR] < style="font-weight: bold;">Message Report

When you writing a message, place at the start of it the code *0# and continue with your message. It's job is like nokias report. It gives you information about the sended message.

T28

*#06# for checking the IMEI (International Mobile Equipment Identity)

>*<<*<* for checking the firmware revision information (software release) >*<<*<*> 1-row text strings. if pressing yes you can check the phones text programming in currently selected language.

>*<<*<*>> n-row text strings. if pressing yes you can check the phones text programming in currently selected language.

The Service Provider (SP) Lock

The Service Provider (SP) Lock menu is used to lock the cell phone to the SP's SIM card. Once the cell phone is locked to a specific operator, if one inserts a SIM card from a different operator the phone will refuse to accept it! The cell phone will however accept another SIM card from the same operator.

To activate/deactivate this lock one needs a special secret code that is not available to the end user.

Here is how to activate the menu:

<**< style="font-weight: bold;">Shortcut for Last Dialed call menu

If you for some reason don't want to enter the 'Last Dialed calls menu' by using the 'YES' key you can use the following key
stroke instead: First '0' then '#'.

Message Report

When you are writing a message, place at the start of it the code *0# and continue with your message. It's job is like nokias report. It gives you information about the sended message.

388

*#06# for checking the IMEI (International Mobile Equipment Identity)

*#0000# to reset the phones menu-language to English.

>*<<*<* for checking the firmware revision information (software release) >*<<*<*> 1-row text strings. if pressing yes you can check the phones text programming in currently selected language.(298 entries)

>*<<*<*>> n-row text strings. if pressing yes you can check the phones text programming in currently selected language.(160 entries?)

The Service Provider (SP) Lock menu is used to lock the cell phone to the SP's SIM card. Once the cell phone is locked to a specific operator, if one inserts a SIM card from a different operator the phone will refuse to accept it! The cell phone will however accept another SIM card from the same operator.

To activate/deactivate this lock one needs a special secret code that is not available to the end user. (not even to you... or is it ? in case please let me know!)

<**< style="font-weight: bold;">Shortcut for Last Dialed call menu...

If you for some reason don't want to enter the 'Last Dialed calls menu' by using the 'YES' key you can use the following key
stroke instead: First '0' then '#'.

Access menu without Sim card ...

To access to the menu in your phone without having a card inside do the following: type **04*0000*0000*0000# When display say "Wrong Pin" press NO and you have access to the all menus: Info, Access, Settings, Calculator, Clock, Keylock On?,Mail, Phone book. NOTE if you try this on the GH688 your phone may stop at Keylock On? menu and you´ll have to take your battery out to turn the phone on again.

GA628

*#06# for checking the IMEI (International Mobile Equipment Identity)

*#0000# to reset the phones menu-language to English.

*#103# then YES Time and date will be shown.

>*<<*<* for checking the firmware revision information (software release) >*<<*<*> 1-row text strings. if pressing yes you can check the phones text programming in currently selected language.(298 entries)

>*<<*<*>> n-row text strings. if pressing yes you can check the phones text programming in currently selected language.(160 entries?)

The Service Provider (SP) Lock

The Service Provider (SP) Lock menu is used to lock the cell phone to the SP's SIM card. Once the cell phone is locked to a specific operator, if one inserts a SIM card from a different operator the phone will refuse to accept it! The cell phone will however accept another SIM card from the same operator.

To activate/deactivate this lock one needs a special secret code that is not available to the end user.

Here is how to activate the menu:

<**< style="font-weight: bold;">Shortcut for Last Dialed call menu

If you for some reason don't want to enter the 'Last Dialed calls menu' by using the 'YES' key you can use the following key
stroke instead: First '0' then '#'.

Bat. level indicator when turned OFF

When the phone is turned off and the phone is not changing - the bat. level can be seen for a short period of time by pressing the 'NO' key quick once (it has to be quick!) and then wait for about 2 sec. The bat. level will now be shown in the display at its normal position.

Access menu without Sim card

To access to the menu in your phone without having a card inside do the following: type **04*0000*0000*0000# When display say "Wrong Pin" press NO and you have access to the all menus: Info, Access, Settings, Calculator, Clock, Keylock On?,Mail, Phone book. NOTE if you try this on your phone may stop at Keylock On? menu and you´ll have to take your battery out to turn the phone on again.

Alarm Clock Menu

Go to MissedCall Empty the list Press the -> key for a second or two The option Menu size turns up Choose 'yes' and go from there.

An alarm clock turned up too but it never rang. I think this was because there is no clock in the phone.

Free phone calls using the GA628

This trick has only been reported working on PREPAID GSM CARDS and in some countries and with some sw versions.
The prepaid GSM SIM CARD is a kind of "SIM card" which only has a sertant amount of credit on it (like a normal phonebox telecard)... if it can be traced? - we don't know...

Well..here's the trick you dial the no. normally and press YES. While "connecting" is shown on the screen, the following procedure should be carried out: Press CLR then 0 then # and then NO (twice) so as to switch OFF the phone. You can then still speak on the phone while it is switched off but the SIM card does not record your calls which will lead to FREE phone calls in some countries.. we hope!!

Nokia Mobile Code

2008-09-07T13:43:00.000-07:00

1610/1630
*#170602112302# (software version)

1610/1611
IMEI number: -*# 0 6 #Software version: -* # 1 7 0 6 0 2 1 1 2 3 9 2 #Simlock status: - # 9 2 7 0 2 6 8 9 #
2110
*#9999# (software version)
2110i/2110e
*#170602112302# or (depends on model)*#682371158412125# (software version)
NOKIA3110
*#06# -IMEI
*#3110# -Software version
##002# - allows to turn off voice mail.
*#7780# - restore factory settings
*#746025625#(or *#sim0clock#) - to check if clock of sim (SIM-Clock) can be stopped (SIM-Clock-stop is akind of standby mode which saces battery)
*#92702689# (or *#war0anty#) -"warranty code:"- you have to enter one of the following codes:
6232 (OK)displays month and year of production date (ie "0198")
7332 (OK) - displays date of last repair - if there is (ie. "DATE NOT SAVED")
7832 (OK) - displays date of purchase - if there is (ie. "DATE NOT SAVED")
9268 (OK) -displays serial number
37832 (OK) -sets purchase date in format MMYY (MM - month, YY - year)- attention: you can set it only once, so beware !
87267 (OK)-displays message "Confirm Transfer?" - meaning is unknown (?)
* # 9 2 7 0 2 6 8 9 # -Simlock info
*#31# (call) -sets if your phone no. will be hidden or not (works only in some networks)
*#76# (call) -sets if target phone number when you call should be displayed (works only in some networks)
*#77# (call) -(work s only in some networks)
*#33/35# (call -displays message "Service not active".
**31# (call) -your no. will not be showed to others when you make a call

3210
*#06# -IMEI
*#0000# -software version
*#92702689# (or *#war0anty#)- enters service mode.
*3370# -Turns on sound encoding system - Enhanced Full Rate.
#3370# -Turns off sound encoding system Enhanced Full Rate .
*4720# -Turns on battery save mode - saves about 30 % of energy.
#4720# -Turns off battery save mode.
xx# -Replace xx with desired phonebook entry - press # and you will see it on display.
51XX
*#06# -IMEI
*#0000# - Software version
*#92702689#( or *#war0anty#) Enter service mode.
*3370# -Turns on sound encoding system - Enhanced Full Rate.
#3370# -Turns off sound encoding system - Enhanced Full Rate.
*4720# -Turns on battery save mode - saves about 30 % of energy.
#4720# -Turns off battery save mode.
#pw+1234567890+1 -provider lock status
#pw+1234567890+2 -Network lock status
#pw+1234567890+3 -Provider lock status
#pw+1234567890+4 - SimCard lock status
NOKIA 61XX
*#06# -IMEI
*#0000# ;-*#99 99# (Nokia 6130)
*#92702689# (or *#war0anty#) Software versionEnter service mode.
*3370# -Turns on sound encoding system - Enhanced Full Rate.
#3370# -Turns off sound encoding system - Enhanced Full Rate.
*4720# -Turns on battery save mode - saves about 30 % of energy.
#4720# -Turns off battery save mode.
NOKIA8810
*#06# - IMEI
*#0000# -Software version
*#92702689# (or *#war0anty#) Enter service mode.
*3370# -Turns on sound encoding system - Enhanced Full Rate.
#3370# -Turns off sound encoding system - Enhanced Full Rate.
*4720# -Turns on battery save mode - saves about 30 % of energy
#4720# -Turns off battery save mode - saves about 30 % of energy

NOKIA99OO
*#06# -IMEI
*#682371158412125# -Software version
*#3283# -Displays week and year of manufacture, ie. 1497 means 14th week of 1997.

NOKIA 911O
*#06# IMEI
*#0000# SOFTWARE VERSION
*3370# Turns on sound encoding system - Enhanced Full Rate.
#3370# Turns off sound encoding system - Enhanced Full Rate.
*4720# Turns on battery save mode - saves about 30 % of energy.
#4720# Turns off battery save mode.

NOKIA 81XX
*#06# IMEI*#8110# Software versionxx# Replace xx with desired phonebook entry - press # and you will see it on display
*#92702689# (or *#warOanty#)
"Warranty code:" - you have to enter one of the following codes:
9268 (OK) displays IMEI (International Mobile Equipment Identification)
6232 (OK) displays date of manufacture in format MMYY (MM - month, RR - year)
7832 (OK) displays date of purchase
7332 (OK) displays date of repair or upgrade
37832 (OK) sets date of purchase in format MMYY (MM - month, RR - year) - attention: you can set it only once, so beware !!!
87267 (OK) transmits user data/move data do service PC

Motoroal Mobile Code

2008-09-07T13:41:00.000-07:00

Motorola Codes:

Motorola 920
---------------

Press menu and type one of these numbers and press OK:

11 = Status Review
13 = Available Networks
14 = Preferred Networks
22 = Select Keypad Tones
25 = Require SIM Card PIN
26 = Language Selection
32 = Repetitive Timer
33 = Single Alert Timer
34 = Set IN-Call Display
35 = Show Call Timers
36 = Show Call Charges
37 = Call Charge Settings
38 = Reset All Timers
43 = Reset All Timers
45 = Show Last Call
46 = Total For All Calls
47 = Lifetime Timer
51 = Change Unlock Code
52 = Master Reset
53 = Master Clear (Warning!! May result in deleting the Message Editor!!!)
54 = New Security Code
55 = Automatic Lock
63 = Battery Saving Mode

Free call tip

1 Enter the phone number
2 Enter OK
3 Type *#06#
4 Press Button C
5 And finally press the button for power off.

You should now be able to talk without being billed.

The 54# Tip:

Type 1#, 2#........54# on the keypad (when you're not in the menu) to get the phone number used for with this key when speed dialing.

Motorola 930
--------------

Press menu and type one of these numbers and press OK:

11 = Status Review
13 = Available Networks
14 = Preferred Networks
22 = Select Keypad Tones
25 = Require SIM Card PIN
26 = Language Selection
32 = Repetitive Timer
33 = Single Alert Timer
34 = Set IN-Call Display
35 = Show Call Timers
36 = Show Call Charges
37 = Call Charge Settings
38 = Reset All Timers
43 = Reset All Timers
45 = Show Last Call
46 = Total For All Calls
47 = Lifetime Timer
51 = Change Unlock Code
52 = Master Reset
53 = Master Clear (Warning!! May result in deleting the Message Editor!!!)
54 = New Security Code
55 = Automatic Lock
63 = Battery Saving Mode

Free call tip

1 Enter the phone number
2 Enter OK
3 Type *#06#
4 Press Button C
5 And finally press the button for power off.

You should now be able to talk without being billed.

Motorola 930

The 54# Tip:

Type 1#, 2#........54# on the keypad (when you're not in the menu) to get the phone number used for with this key when speed dialing.

Motorola 6200
--------------

(Note: pause means the * key held in until box appears)
To activate RBS type: [pause] [pause] [pause] 1 1 3
[pause] 1 [pause] [ok]
You now have to press the [MENU] and scroll to the 'Eng
Field Options' function with the keys, and enable it.

De-activate RBS

To de-activate RBS type: [pause] [pause] [pause] 1 1 3
[pause] 0 [pause] [ok]
This only works with some versions of software.

These countries has been reported working:

UK (Orange)
AU

What's the use of RBS:

Get Distance From Base Station - Place a call, when it
is answered, press [MENU] until 'Eng Field Option' is
displayed, press [OK], select 'Active Cell', press [OK],
press [MENU] until 'Time Adv xxx' appears, where xxx is
a number. Multiply this number by 550, and the result is
the distance from the RBS (Radio Base Station), in
meters.

Get Signal Quality - press [MENU] until 'Eng Field
Option' is displayed, press [OK], select 'Active Cell',
press [OK], press [MENU] until 'C1' appears. This is the
signal quality. If it becomes negative for longer than 5
seconds, a new cell is selected.

Pin Outs

Numbered left to right, keypad up, battery down

1. Audio Ground
2. V+
3. True data (TD) (input)
4. Downlink - Complimentary data (CD) (input)
5. Uplink - Return data (RD) (output)
6. GND
7. Audio Out - on/off
8. Audio In
9. Manual Test - ???
10. Battery Feedback
11. Antenna connector

Motorola 7500
-------------

(Note: pause means the * key held in until box appears)
To activate RBS type: [pause] [pause] [pause] 1 1 3
[pause] 1 [pause] [ok]
You now have to press the [MENU] and scroll to the 'Eng
Field Options' function with the keys, and enable it.

De-activate RBS

To de-activate RBS type: [pause] [pause] [pause] 1 1 3
[pause] 0 [pause] [ok]
This only works with some versions of software.

IT (model: F16 HW: 5.2 SW: 2.1)

What's the use of RBS:

Get Distance From Base Station - Place a call, when it
is answered, press [MENU] until 'Eng Field Option' is
displayed, press [OK], select 'Active Cell', press [OK],
press [MENU] until 'Time Adv xxx' appears, where xxx is
a number. Multiply this number by 550, and the result is
the distance from the RBS (Radio Base Station), in
meters.

Get Signal Quality - press [MENU] until 'Eng Field
Option' is displayed, press [OK], select 'Active Cell',
press [OK], press [MENU] until 'C1' appears. This is the
signal quality. If it becomes negative for longer than 5
seconds, a new cell is selected.

Pin Outs
Numbered right to left, keypad up, battery down looking

1. Gnd
2. Pos
3. True data (TD) (input)
4. Complimentary data (CD) (input)
5. Return data (RD) (output)
6. Audio gnd
7. Audio out
8. Audioin

Motorola 8200
--------------

(Note: pause means the * key held in until box appears)
To activate RBS type: [pause] [pause] [pause] 1 1 3
[pause] 1 [pause] [ok]
You now have to press the [MENU] and scroll to the 'Eng
Field Options' function with the keys, and enable it.

De-activate RBS

To de-activate RBS type: [pause] [pause] [pause] 1 1 3
[pause] 0 [pause] [ok]
This only works with some versions of software.

These countries has been reported working:

ES, AU, NL, BE

What's the use of RBS:

Get Distance From Base Station - Place a call, when it
is answered, press [MENU] until 'Eng Field Option' is
displayed, press [OK], select 'Active Cell', press [OK],
press [MENU] until 'Time Adv xxx' appears, where xxx is
a number. Multiply this number by 550, and the result is
the distance from the RBS (Radio Base Station), in
meters.

Get Signal Quality - press [MENU] until 'Eng Field
Option' is displayed, press [OK], select 'Active Cell',
press [OK], press [MENU] until 'C1' appears. This is the
signal quality. If it becomes negative for longer than 5
seconds, a new cell is selected.

Pin Outs

Numbered right to left, keypad up, battery down looking

1. Audio Ground
2. V+
3. True data (TD) (input)
4. Downlink - Complimentary data (CD) (input)
5. Uplink - Return data (RD) (output)
6. GND
7. Audio Out - on/off
8. Audio In
9. Manual Test - ???
10. Battery Feedback
11. Antenna connector

Motorola 8400
-------------

(Note: pause means the * key held in until box appears)
To activate RBS type: [pause] [pause] [pause] 1 1 3
[pause] 1 [pause] [ok]
You now have to press the [MENU] and scroll to the 'Eng
Field Options' function with the keys, and enable it.

De-activate RBS

To de-activate RBS type: [pause] [pause] [pause] 1 1 3
[pause] 0 [pause] [ok]
This only works with some versions of software.

These countries has been reported working:

ES, AU, NL, BE

What's the use of RBS:

Get Distance From Base Station - Place a call, when it
is answered, press [MENU] until 'Eng Field Option' is
displayed, press [OK], select 'Active Cell', press [OK],
press [MENU] until 'Time Adv xxx' appears, where xxx is
a number. Multiply this number by 550, and the result is
the distance from the RBS (Radio Base Station), in
meters.

Get Signal Quality - press [MENU] until 'Eng Field
Option' is displayed, press [OK], select 'Active Cell',
press [OK], press [MENU] until 'C1' appears. This is the
signal quality. If it becomes negative for longer than 5
seconds, a new cell is selected.

Pin Outs

Numbered right to left, keypad up, battery down looking

1. Audio Ground
2. V+
3. True data (TD) (input)
4. Downlink - Complimentary data (CD) (input)
5. Uplink - Return data (RD) (output)
6. GND
7. Audio Out - on/off
8. Audio In
9. Manual Test - ???
10. Battery Feedback
11. Antenna connector

Motorola 8700
--------------

*#06# for checking the IMEI (International Mobile Equipment Identity)

Activate RBS

(Note: pause means the * key held in until box appears)
To activate RBS type: [pause] [pause] [pause] 1 1 3
[pause] 1 [pause] [ok]
You now have to press the [MENU] and scroll to the 'Eng
Field Options' function with the keys, and enable it.

De-activate RBS

To de-activate RBS type: [pause] [pause] [pause] 1 1 3
[pause] 0 [pause] [ok]
This only works with some versions of software.

These countries has been reported working:

AU, IT, SG, DE, ES, ZA

What's the use of RBS:

Get Distance From Base Station - Place a call, when it
is answered, press [MENU] until 'Eng Field Option' is
displayed, press [OK], select 'Active Cell', press [OK],
press [MENU] until 'Time Adv xxx' appears, where xxx is
a number. Multiply this number by 550, and the result is
the distance from the RBS (Radio Base Station), in
meters.

Get Signal Quality - press [MENU] until 'Eng Field
Option' is displayed, press [OK], select 'Active Cell',
press [OK], press [MENU] until 'C1' appears. This is the
signal quality. If it becomes negative for longer than 5
seconds, a new cell is selected.

Motorola CD 160
---------------

Press menu and type one of these numbers and press OK:

11 = Status Review
13 = Available Networks
14 = Preferred Networks
22 = Select Keypad Tones
25 = Require SIM Card PIN
26 = Language Selection
32 = Repetitive Timer
33 = Single Alert Timer
34 = Set IN-Call Display
35 = Show Call Timers
36 = Show Call Charges
37 = Call Charge Settings
38 = Reset All Timers
43 = Reset All Timers
45 = Show Last Call
46 = Total For All Calls
47 = Lifetime Timer
51 = Change Unlock Code
52 = Master Reset
53 = Master Clear (Warning!! May result in deleting the Message Editor!!!)
54 = New Security Code
55 = Automatic Lock
63 = Battery Saving Mode

Free call tip

1 Enter the phone number
2 Enter OK
3 Type *#06#
4 Press Button C
5 And finally press the button for power off.

You should now be able to talk without being billed.

Motorola CD 520
----------------

Press menu and type one of these numbers and press OK:

11 = Status Review
13 = Available Networks
14 = Preferred Networks
22 = Select Keypad Tones
25 = Require SIM Card PIN
26 = Language Selection
32 = Repetitive Timer
33 = Single Alert Timer
34 = Set IN-Call Display
35 = Show Call Timers
36 = Show Call Charges
37 = Call Charge Settings
38 = Reset All Timers
43 = Reset All Timers
45 = Show Last Call
46 = Total For All Calls
47 = Lifetime Timer
51 = Change Unlock Code
52 = Master Reset
53 = Master Clear (Warning!! May result in deleting the Message Editor!!!)
54 = New Security Code
55 = Automatic Lock
63 = Battery Saving Mode

Free call tip

1 Enter the phone number
2 Enter OK
3 Type *#06#
4 Press Button C
5 And finally press the button for power off.

You should now be able to talk without being billed.

Motorola d460
--------------

#06# for checking the IMEI (International Mobile Equipment Identity)

Activate RBS

(Note: pause means the * key held in until box appears)
To activate RBS type: [pause] [pause] [pause] 1 1 3
[pause] 1 [pause] [ok]
You now have to press the [MENU] and scroll to the 'Eng
Field Options' function with the keys, and enable it.

De-activate RBS

To de-activate RBS type: [pause] [pause] [pause] 1 1 3
[pause] 0 [pause] [ok]
This only works with some versions of software.

What's the use of RBS:

Get Distance From Base Station - Place a call, when it
is answered, press [MENU] until 'Eng Field Option' is
displayed, press [OK], select 'Active Cell', press [OK],
press [MENU] until 'Time Adv xxx' appears, where xxx is
a number. Multiply this number by 550, and the result is
the distance from the RBS (Radio Base Station), in
meters.

Get Signal Quality - press [MENU] until 'Eng Field
Option' is displayed, press [OK], select 'Active Cell',
press [OK], press [MENU] until 'C1' appears. This is the
signal quality. If it becomes negative for longer than 5
seconds, a new cell is selected.

How to creat banner URL ?

2008-09-07T09:15:00.000-07:00

creat banner for web page so when people see it they can just click on it and it will take you right in your web page.

Google Chrome

2008-09-07T07:47:00.000-07:00

Google has released the beta version of a new browser, Chrome. In its comic-book pre-announcement, Google stated correctly that watching videos, chatting, and even playing Web-based games didn't exist when browsers were first invented. Google wants the browser to help users focus on the applications and pages they are viewing, rather than on browser toolbars and buttons. Google has rethought the Internet browser — some of its basic underpinnings are quite novel — but users will recognise some features as they exist in other, open-source browsers on the market today.

At the moment, only the Windows version of Chrome is available for download. Plans call for Mac OS X and Linux versions in the near future. That said, Google has released Chrome in 43 languages and in 122 countries.

Download Link : http://www.google.com/chrome

ReplacingiPod broken screen

2008-09-07T03:26:00.000-07:00

Obviously, the
screen on his laser video was working just fine. Hopefully, you
can say the same for the screen on your iPod, but if you can’t,
this chapter is for you. In it, we show you how to remove your
iPod’s broken liquid crystal display (LCD) and install a brandnew one.
Check the Signs of a Bad Screen
A bad screen is fairly easy to diagnose. When you turn on your iPod, you see
what looks like an inkblot in the display. Sometimes it seems to be a large crack
or a flood of ink, while other times it looks more like a little sliver.
Either way, your LCD needs to be replaced. You don’t break open the screen
itself and try to clean up the spilled ink. You just pop out the old screen and
install a new one.

Replace the Screen in
a First-Generation iPod
To replace the screen in a first-generation
iPod:
1. Open the iPod according to the instructions
2. Pull the battery from the back of the hard
drive. There is adhesive
holding it down.
3. Unplug the battery from the logic board.
4. Carefully slide the hard drive from the orange
hard drive connector.

5. Pull the hard drive from the iPod

6. Find the four T6 Torx screws in the logic board. A large piece of rubber covers one of
them; remove the rubber to expose the fourth screw

7. With your T6 Torx screwdriver, remove all four screws

8. Remove the logic board from the bottom of the iPod (see Figure 5-7).
9. The screen has four white clips: two on each side of the logic board. These clips hold
the screen in place. Disconnect them

10. Find the connector for the screen underneath the scroll wheel. Carefully unplug this
connector with your iPod-opening tool or small flat-headed screwdriver

11. Connect the new screen to the logic board.
12. Connect the four white clips, and make sure they’re holding the screen in place.
13. Screw in all four T6 Torx screws to the logic board.
14. Slide the hard drive back into the hard drive connector.
15. Plug the battery back into the logic board.
16. Put the iPod back together.

Replace Battery of Your First-Generation iPod Nano

2008-09-07T02:57:00.000-07:00

The iPod nano is super-small, which makes replacing its battery something
of a test for the non-repair professional—not only because of the size, but also
because you need to solder the battery to the logic board (see Table 4-3). If you
don’t have access to a soldering iron, or if the idea of soldering your iPod nano
doesn’t exactly fill you with confidence, you might be better off leaving this one
to the pros.In this section, we give step-by-step instructions for replacing the battery in
your first-generation iPod nano. We don’t even touch replacing the battery in
the second-generation nano, because the steps are too hard for a non-pro,
and if you make a mistake, you can easily do permanent damage to your iPod.
Also, don’t try to use the procedure for the first-generation nano for replacing
the battery in a second-generation nano, because the steps aren’t the same.
Find yourself an iPod repair service instead.
To replace the battery in a first-generation iPod nano:
1. Open your iPod nano according to the instructions in Chapter 3.
2. Locate the battery (see Figure 4-29). It’s soldered to the logic board.
3. Carefully remove the battery from the logic board (see Figure 4-30). You will need to
pull the wires off.

4. With your soldering iron, solder the new battery onto the logic board.
5. Put the iPod nano back together.

Still No Power? Try These Fixes
Always install a new battery first to resolve any iPod power issues. If the new
battery doesn’t seem to do the trick, then you might try the following:
• Double-check all the connections for the new battery. Sometimes a wire can come
loose, or it might be pinched. If so, your iPod might not be able to power on.
• If all the connections are good, try charging your iPod overnight through the wall charger.
• If that doesn’t work, try a new charger.
• If that doesn’t work, try restoring your iPod with the latest iPod software through
iTunes.
If you’ve tried all these suggestions and you are still experiencing power
problems—your iPod isn’t holding a good charge, or your iPod isn’t powering
on even when you plug it into a charger—then most likely a bad logic board is
the culprit. See Chapter 9 for how to replace it.
If the battery icon goes away but you start getting different icons or warning message.

Accessing Intant Messanger in Your PSP

2008-09-05T22:43:00.000-07:00

Sites Optimized for Mobile Devices
Many Web sites have versions of their content optimized for mobile devices. These optimized
pages lack the extranneous graphics and scripts and just show the images and text you need,
ideal for a device like the PSP, which doesn’t have a lot of RAM or screen real estate to display
all the images, ads, and so forth on pages. If you can find a mobile version of the site you want
to browse, use it—you’ll find browsing the site is much more responsive, and you’ll spend less
of your PSP’s processor and battery life rendering pages because you can leave the wireless
power-saving option on.
AOL Instant Messenger
Even thought America Online is not likely to release a PSP Instant Messenger version of AOL
soon, you don’t have to be without your buddy list. Using your PSP’s Web browser you can log
on to WebAIM at www.webaim.net, type your username and password, and access your
buddy list, send and receive instant messages, and more
in action in a regular PC browser).WebAIM even has a login page made especially for PSPs,
with an on-screen keyboard to save you time entering your username and password—just head
over to http://dev.webaim.net/psplogin.jsp.

WebAIM in action in Firefox

WebAIM in action on my PSP using Sony’s Web browser, which is enabled
in the Firmware 2.0 update. Of course, you can still use the Wipeout Pure Web browser hack
from Chapter 6, “The Web on Your PSP,” so you don’t have to upgrade to Firmware 2.0 and
lose the ability to program your PSP and run homebrew applications.

WebAIM in action on the PSP
WebAIM’s free servers are often pretty crowded, so getting one can take a while. I opted to pay
for their premium service, which guarantees me access any time of the day, for around $4 per
month or a scant $17 for six months.
Accessing Most of the Messenger Services for Free
Instead of using WebAIM, you can also use the free service Meebo, available
www.meebo.com. Meebo lets you access your AOL Instant Messenger (AIM), MSN
Messenger, Yahoo Messenger, and Jabber (Google Talk uses Jabber) accounts from a single
interface.Try it out on your PSP.

convert standard N70 to N70 music edition

2008-09-05T06:48:00.000-07:00

Requirements:
*USB provided with your phone
*NSShttp://www.b-phreaks.co.uk/software.htm
*Nokia Software Updaterhttp://www.nokia.co.uk/A4176089
*Latest Firmware available for ur phonehttp://www.nokia.co.uk/A4305060
NOW WE CAN BEGIN:
Install NSS
Install NSU
Connect your phone and wait for Windows to install the drivers.
Open NSS and click on “Scan for new device” on the right-upper part of the window
Click on the icon « Phone info »
Click on “Scan”
Now you can change the Std n70 code to ME code(provided below) product code (on the right of the « phone info » window of NSS). And then mark the case “Enable”.
Now press “Write”, and your phone’s product code will be changed (you might think that nothing happened, because the phone is still in normal mode, and the changing of the product code only takes a couple of seconds, but don’t worry, the product code changed !).
Close NSS and you can proceed now with the NSU flashing.
When the flashing with NSU is over, start-up your phone and you’ll have the pleasant surprise that your phone’s firmware is the latest Nokia branded firmware in date!

NOTE: I advise you to disable any antivirus and firewall on your PC during the flashing.

N70 RM-84 Music Edition:

0536418 Euro-1 / Music edition
0539211 France / Music edition
0539212 ALPS / Music edition
0539213 Euro-2 / Music edition
0539214 Turkey / Music edition
0539216 South Africa / Music edition
0539218 Scandinavia / Music edition
0539221 Baltian / Music edition
0539222 Russian / Music edition
0539224 Ukraine / Music edition
0539226 CIS, Bulgaria / Music edition
0539229 Hun, Czech, Slov / Music edition
0539232 Balkans / Music edition
0539233 Greece/Cyprus / Music edition
0539237 Lebanon / Music edition
0539240 GULF / Music edition
0539242 Israel / Music edition
0539243 Romania / Music edition

޲ 27-Mar N70 Music Edition RM-84 APAC codes
============
0539266 Apac1
0539272 Philippines
0539273 Australia
0539353 New Zealand
0539275 Indonesia
0539276 India, Vietnam
0539270 Thailand
-------------------------

N70 STANDARD RM-84 APAC codes
============

0524113 Taiwan / Stainless Silver & Black
0524114 Taiwan / Ivory Pearl and Aubergine
0524115 Hong Kong / Ivory Pearl and Aubergine
0524116 Hong Kong / Stainless Silver & Black
0524117 APAC1 / Ivory Pearl and Aubergine
0524118 APAC1 / Stainless Silver & Black
0524119 Philippines / Ivory Pearl and Aubergine
0524120 Philippines / Stainless Silver & Black
0524122 Australia, New Zealand / Stainless Silver & Black
0524123 Australia, New Zealand / Ivory Pearl and Aubergine
0524124 Thailand / Ivory Pearl and Aubergine
0524125 Thailand / Stainless Silver & Black
0524126 Indonesia / Ivory Pearl and Aubergine
0524127 Indonesia / Stainless Silver & Black
0524128 India, Vietnam / Ivory Pearl and Aubergine
0524129 India, Vietnam / Stainless Silver & Black
0534652 India, Vietnam / Black and Stainless Silver - refresh
0534654 Indonesia / Black and Stainless Silver - refresh
0534677 Thailand / Black and Stainless Silver - refresh
0534678 Philippines / Black and Stainless Silver - refresh
0534687 Apac-1 / Black and Stainless Silver - refresh
0534699 Australia, New Zealand / Black and Stainless Silver - refresh

Nokia Phone - Lock Reset

2008-09-05T06:45:00.000-07:00

THE NOKIA PHONE-LOCK RESET

Q. What is a Phone Lock?
Answer: From Nokia's webpage:
"The Phone Lock prevents your phone data from being accessed if Your phone is stolen.
"The lock code is a number that prevents unauthorized persons from Using your phone. These control codes are for your protection."

What is THE-NOKIA-UNLOCK:
The program exploits a design flaw in the nokia mobile phones to remove The Phone Lock protection. The program was tested on Nokia 6630 and Nokia 6680. The program
Should work on any other Symbian based mobile phones (including Sony Ericson and all modern nokia phones and many others). This tool does not remove the sim-lock.

How to use:
You need two mobile phones.
1) Do _not_ turn off the mobile phone!
2) Remove the Memory Card (MMC) from the locked phone and put it into a second mobile. Install FExplorer on the second mobile phone. Create the directory E:\System\Recogs and copy the-nokia-unlock.mdl into this directory.
3) Remove the Memory Card and place it into the locked phone. The THE-NOKIA-UNLOCK program should start after 120 seconds.
4) Remove the battery. Remove the MMC. Put the battery back and restart. The Phone Lock has been reset to "12345".

Why does this work?
The Phone Lock disables the key pad, Bluetooth and the USB port. This makes it impossible to access the data stored on the device without knowing the correct code. Nevertheless the MMC is not disabled. Nokia's OS has a lot of undocumented features. One of them are 'recognizer' that can be used to execute a program when the phone boots. A recognizer is loaded and executed when a drive is mounted. The MMC is mounted when it is placed into the mobile phone _even_ when the phone is locked.

THE-NOKIA-UNLOCK is a recognizer that implementes yet another undocumented feature to perform a hard reset (by software) on the phone.

Convert Standard N70 to N70 music edition

2008-09-05T06:44:00.000-07:00

Real and Working Convert Your Std n70 To Music Edition
Try it in your Own Risk!!
This tutorial will tech you to convert ur standard n70 music edition to music edition or even music edition to standard edition.
Requirements:
*USB provided with your phone
*NSShttp://www.b-phreaks.co.uk/software.htm
*Nokia Software Updaterhttp://www.nokia.co.uk/A4176089
*Latest Firmware available for ur phonehttp://www.nokia.co.uk/A4305060
NOW WE CAN BEGIN:
Install NSS
Install NSU
Connect your phone and wait for Windows to install the drivers.
Open NSS and click on “Scan for new device” on the right-upper part of the window
Click on the icon « Phone info »
Click on “Scan”
Now you can change the Std n70 code to ME code(provided below) product code (on the right of the « phone info » window of NSS). And then mark the case “Enable”.
Now press “Write”, and your phone’s product code will be changed (you might think that nothing happened, because the phone is still in normal mode, and the changing of the product code only takes a couple of seconds, but don’t worry, the product code changed !).
Close NSS and you can proceed now with the NSU flashing.
When the flashing with NSU is over, start-up your phone and you’ll have the pleasant surprise that your phone’s firmware is the latest Nokia branded firmware in date!

NOTE: I advise you to disable any antivirus and firewall on your PC during the flashing.

N70 RM-84 Music Edition:

0536418 Euro-1 / Music edition
0539211 France / Music edition
0539212 ALPS / Music edition
0539213 Euro-2 / Music edition
0539214 Turkey / Music edition
0539216 South Africa / Music edition
0539218 Scandinavia / Music edition
0539221 Baltian / Music edition
0539222 Russian / Music edition
0539224 Ukraine / Music edition
0539226 CIS, Bulgaria / Music edition
0539229 Hun, Czech, Slov / Music edition
0539232 Balkans / Music edition
0539233 Greece/Cyprus / Music edition
0539237 Lebanon / Music edition
0539240 GULF / Music edition
0539242 Israel / Music edition
0539243 Romania / Music edition

? 27-Mar N70 Music Edition RM-84 APAC codes
============
0539266 Apac1
0539272 Philippines
0539273 Australia
0539353 New Zealand
0539275 Indonesia
0539276 India, Vietnam
0539270 Thailand
-------------------------

N70 STANDARD RM-84 APAC codes
============

0524113 Taiwan / Stainless Silver & Black
0524114 Taiwan / Ivory Pearl and Aubergine
0524115 Hong Kong / Ivory Pearl and Aubergine
0524116 Hong Kong / Stainless Silver & Black
0524117 APAC1 / Ivory Pearl and Aubergine
0524118 APAC1 / Stainless Silver & Black
0524119 Philippines / Ivory Pearl and Aubergine
0524120 Philippines / Stainless Silver & Black
0524122 Australia, New Zealand / Stainless Silver & Black
0524123 Australia, New Zealand / Ivory Pearl and Aubergine
0524124 Thailand / Ivory Pearl and Aubergine
0524125 Thailand / Stainless Silver & Black
0524126 Indonesia / Ivory Pearl and Aubergine
0524127 Indonesia / Stainless Silver & Black
0524128 India, Vietnam / Ivory Pearl and Aubergine
0524129 India, Vietnam / Stainless Silver & Black
0534652 India, Vietnam / Black and Stainless Silver - refresh
0534654 Indonesia / Black and Stainless Silver - refresh
0534677 Thailand / Black and Stainless Silver - refresh
0534678 Philippines / Black and Stainless Silver - refresh
0534687 Apac-1 / Black and Stainless Silver - refresh
0534699 Australia, New Zealand / Black and Stainless Silver - refresh

Internet Over Blue tooth in Mobile

2008-09-05T06:41:00.000-07:00

Internet Over Bluetooth

Finally after lot of R&D, yesterday i could finally browse the net over my 6600 using my PC’s internet connection over bluetooth !
Two things are possible.
1. You use the GPRS of your Mobile phone and browse on your PC.
2. You use the DSL (or other high speed connection) of your PC to browse on your Mobile phone.
#1 is pretty simple, and is very easy to setup on Nokia 6600. But #2 is not that simple. After reading lot of forums, i found that Nokia has on purpose blocked this feature in 6600.
If you have already done a search on this topic, you would have definitely come across this page. But the instructions there are quite cryptic, and not very clear. So, i did lot of search on various forums, and finally got it right. What i have done is, i have basically documented the steps that i followed to make it work. Do give it a try!. It might work for you as well. If it works (or doesn’t) do comment here!
Steps…
First lets set up the PC. Things to do on PC :

1. Deactivate all the Checkboxes in mRouter (at least the ones of the Bluetooth COM ports)
2. Goto Bluetooth settings and Deactivate everything else in Local services than Bluetooth serial port, note the com port you set as bluetooth serial port
3. Goto Phone and Modem options, go to “Modems” add a new one, activate “I will select it from a list”
4. Choose “Communications cable between 2 Computers” from the list (in Standard Modem Types)
5. Select the COM port from step3
6. In the modem settings set maximum port speed to 115200
7. Goto Network Connections and create a new connection (wizard)
8. Select Set up an advanced connection -> Next
9. Accept incoming connections -> Next
10. Check the Communications cable between two computers -> Next
11. Do not allow VPN connections ->
12. select a username you want to give access to your pc over Bluetooth (that’s the username you will set on the phone later) -> Next
13. Select Internet Protocol -> Properties, select “TCI/IP address assignment” and set the IP range to something like 10.0.2.2-10.0.2.254
14. Remove Internet Connection Sharing from all interfaces
15. run cmd.exe and enter the following commands:

netsh routing ip nat install
netsh routing ip nat add interface "YOUR LAN INTERFACE NAME" full
netsh routing ip nat add interface Internal private

YOUR LAN INTERFACE NAME has to be replaced with the name of the interface connected to the internet
16. if there is a “Bluetooth Network” connection in Network Connections delete it
17. In network connections choose the incoming connection just created, and open its properties.
18. Click on the users tab, check the last checkbox which says “Always allow directly connected devices to such as palmtop computers to connect without using a password” (this step helped me!)

So, that’s the setup on the PC. Next we need to configure the 6600

1. Download gnubox6600.SIS and install it on your phone. Search Google for GnuBox
2. Create a new Access Point on the phone (Setting|Connection|Access points|New access point|Use default settings).
3. Use the following settings for it:
* Name: Bt (This name is important, the gnubox software will look for it, since its hard-coded in the code)
* Data Bearer: High speed (GSM)
* Dial-up number: e.g. 2222. It doesn’t matter what you have here as long as it’s not empty
* Username: the username you gave access to the incoming connection earlier
* Prompt password: No
* Password: Password for the user on Windows
* Authentication: Normal
* Advanced Settings: Use Login Script Yes
* Advanced Settings: Login Script

CHARMAP [windows-1252]
LOOP 10
{
SEND “CLIENT”+<0×0d>
WAIT 3
{
“SERVER” OK
}
}
EXIT KErrNoAnswer$OK:
EXIT
Be careful that you get it exactly as show here, including line breaks. You could save it to a file, send to the phone and copy-paste to the settings.
* Advanced Settings: Use PPP Compression Yes
4. Run the program you installed at step1 (gnubox)
5. Inside gnubox: Options-> 2box Direct -> Bluetooth, select your computer, leave gnubox running in background
6. Run the nokia wml browser select “Bt” as access point and connect.
7. You can also use any other internet app like Agile messenger, real player, opera, profimail etc

Mobile Code

2008-09-05T06:37:00.000-07:00

LG
2945#*# - service menu (code resetW3000 G5300 C1200 G7100...)
2945#(*)- hold (LG 500,600)
B1200 *+pwr, 6,6,8 Service Menu
B1300 *+pwr, 1,5,9 Service Menu

Security Removing Code For Lg 8110,8120.
47328545454#
Or
277634#*#

Sony-Ericsson
> * < < * < * - Service menu

< * * < - Lock menu

VK Mobile

*#79# - SW version
*#85*364# (*) - hold menu
855855# without SIM (VG107)
85558555#(*)-hold
4268#(*)-hold (VG207)

Voxtel
0124 - master code
0718#(*)- hold - menu (ST11, SC10, V100 without SIM)
4268#(*)- hold - show code (ST11, SC10 without SIM)
*789(#)- hold - menu (V50, V300, RX100 without SIM)

Motorola
(T190, T191, T205) master code

- 19980722

- 20010903

**********

P2K test menu:
*#06#, menu, menu, 048263*

Test comands:
32*116*1*0*0 - read phone code
32*118*1*0*0 - read security code
18*0 - factory reset, phone code off
18*1 - master reset
54*18*1 - full phone reset
10*0*6 - select 900/1800
32*279*1*0*8 - model
32*383*1*0*0 - flex version

Hard reset MPX200, MPX220 - blue button + power on

Nokia
*#7370925538# (valet code reset) 6230
*#746025625# [*#sim0clock#]
*#92702689# [*#war0anty#]

Fly Bird
S688 - #*301#02# send - with SIM
menu:
7 - 10 - ok,

#*8000#, #*3676# (reboot repair)

V09, S1180 - *, 3 times down, 3 times up - service menu

Enol
*#987*00# - Service menu
*#987*99# - Full reset
*#900# - SW version

Maxon
*#9922# - menu, reset (without SIM)
*#9900# - Software Version
*#9901# - Software Version (PBatch)

S60 Siries (SX1, 6600, N-Gage..)
*#7780# - factory default
*#7370# - full factory defaults (all user data reset)
SX1 formating - * + # + power on
6600 formating - 3 + * + send + power on
Sendo X1 formating - 5 + power on

Mitsubishi
*65512890 (*-hold) format FFS (Eclipse)

* 3926 - (*-hold) test mode

* 5806 - (*-hold) SW version

*(hold) 787090 - trium 320 unlock menu

Huawei (cdma)

MASTER SECURITY CODE
-309296
-3092
-9296

Pantech HX-550C (cdma)

Full reset (phone code reset)- ##03*934#9367*192#397#7412569746 PWR,
after reset - ##27732726 PWR and select "with uim"

*#0000# Displays your phones software version:

1st Line : Software Version
2nd Line : Software Release Date
3rd Line : Compression Type

*#06# For checking the International Mobile Equipment Identity (IMEI Number)
*#2640# Displays security code in use
*#0000# Display Software ver. and compresion type
*#100# Shows the phones number
*#639# Programming - min/sid
*#67705646# Removes operator logo on 3310 & 3330
*#73# Reset phone timers and game scores
*#7760# Manufactures code
*#7780# Restore factory settings
*#92702689# Displays:

1. Serial Number
2. Date Made
3. Purchase Date
4. Date of last repair (0000 for no repairs)
5. Transfer User Data. To exit this mode you need to switch your phone off then on again

*#30# Lets you see the private number
*#94870345123456789# Deactivate the PWM-Mem (not recommend)
*#746025625# Displays the Sim Clock status, if your phone supports this power saving feature "SIM Clock Stop Allowed", it means you will get the best standby time possible

**21*number# Turn on "All Calls" diverting to the phone number entered
**61*number# Turn on "No Reply" diverting to the phone number entered
**67*number# Turn on "On Busy" diverting to the phone number entered
*3001#12345# Programming / Field Test
*#21# Allows you to check the number that "All Calls" are diverted to
*#61# Allows you to check the number that "On No Reply" calls are diverted to
*#62# Allows you to check the number that "Divert If Unreachable (no service)" calls are diverted to
*#67# Allows you to check the number that "On Busy Calls" are diverted to
*#43# Allows you to check the "Call Waiting" status of your phone.
#3370# Enable Enhanced Full Rate Codec (EFR)
#4720# Disable Half Rate Codec (correct code)
*#1345# Shows credit value
*** to the P sign
**** to get the W sign
***** to get the + sign
*#147# This lets you know who called you last (Only vodofone)
*#1471# Last call (Only vodofone)
*#21# This phone code allows you to check the number that "All Calls" are diverted to
*#2640# Displays phone security code in use
*#30# Lets you see the private number
*#43# Allows you to check the "Call Waiting" status of your cell phone.
*#61# Allows you to check the number that "On No Reply" calls are diverted to
*#62# Allows you to check the number that "Divert If Unreachable (no service)" calls are diverted to
*#67# Allows you to check the number that "On Busy Calls" are diverted to
*#67705646# Phone code that removes operator logo on 3310 & 3330
*#73# Reset phone timers and game scores
*#746025625# Displays the SIM Clock status, if your phone supports this power saving feature "SIM Clock Stop Allowed", it means you will get the best standby time possible
*#7760# Manufactures code
*#7780# Restore factory settings
*#8110# Software version for the nokia 8110
*#92702689# Displays - 1.Serial Number, 2.Date Made, 3.Purchase Date, 4.Date of last repair (0000 for no repairs), 5.Transfer User Data. To exit this mode you need to switch your phone off then on again
*#94870345123456789# Deactivate the PWM-Mem
**21*number# Turn on "All Calls" diverting to the phone number entered
**61*number# Turn on "No Reply" diverting to the phone number entered
**67*number# Turn on "On Busy" diverting to the phone number entered
12345 This is the default security code
press and hold # Lets you switch between lines

Software version *#2820#
M aster reset *73738#
SP lock *#3210#
Cooprate lock *#8140#
SIM lock *#4960#
Net Lock *#7320#

E616 get the P sign

P sign will appear after the # is held pressed for 3 seconds

Temp unlock solution working on older firmwares please only try once.

To unlock using temp solution Use any 2G simcard and turn-on the phone pre feb 2004
1) #4960*xxxxxxxx# + Send
2)*4960*xxxxxxxx*xxxxxxxx# + Send
3) Turn-off the phone and turn-on again!
xxxxxxxx = any numbers make sure you keep them the same

*2767*JAVA# Java Reset and (Deletes all Java Midlets)
*2767*MEDIA# Reset Media (Deletes All Sounds and Pics)
*2767*WAP# Wap Reset
*2767*CUST# Reset Custom EEPR0M
*2767*FULL# Reset Full EEPR0M (Caution)
For example : *2767*JAVA# would be keyed in as *2767*5282#
*#06# IMEI code
*#9998*4357# Help Menu
*#9998*5282# Java menu (GRPS/CSD settings for JAVA server)
*#9999#0# Monitor Mode
*#9999# or *#9998*9999# Software Version
*#8888# or *#9998*8888# Hardware Version
*#9998*746# or *#9998*0746# or *#0746# Sim Infos
*#9998*523# or *#9998*0523# or *#0523# Display Contrast
*#9998*842# or *#9998*0842# or *#0842# Vibration On (until you push OK)
*#9998*289# or *#9998*0289# or *#0289# Buzzer On (until you push OK)
*#9998*288# or *#9998*0288# or *#0288# Battery & Field Infos
*#9998*377# or *#9998*0377# Error log
*#9998*778# or *#9998*0778# or *#0778# Sim Service table
*#9998*782# show date and alarm clock
*#8999*638# show network information
*#9998*5646# change operator logo at startup
*#9998*76# production number
*#9998*968# view melody for alarm
*#9998*585# Non-Volatile Memory (NVM)
*#3243948# Digital Audio Interference Off

Secret Games: Snake on the T68 - Go to Erix and then on the main screen press 123 and you will be taken to the game.

Secret Message - On Tetris on the main screen when the blocks are falling press 397 and a message will appear.

Service Menu: Press > * < < * < *
tells you the phone's software version (good for checking your phone's "age" before buying it); press "Yes" repeatedly to see all the software data & press ">" to see all the texts available in your phone (hundreds of them!); some phones have "Flash?" option to reset the phone (I didn't see any difference after doing that)
How to Press > * < < * < * ???
When T68 is on "Standby Mode", "Standby Mode" means when it is not receiving or making any calls,, and it is on the main page where it show your operator name, signal strengths, time and battery level.
1. push joy stick to RIGHT once
(Screen will change to the menu and cursor land on PHONE BOOK icon)
2. press *
3. push joy stick to LEFT twice
(cursor will land on CONNECT icon)
4. press *
5. push joy stick to LEFT once
(cursor will land on ORGANISER icon)
6. press *
The Service Menu will appears !
1. Service Info
a. Software Version
b. SIMlock
c. Configuration
2. Service Setting
a. Contrast
3. Service Test
a. Display
b. LED/Illumination - *This test is very cool
c. Keyboard
d. Buzzer
e. Vibrator
f. Earphone
g. Microphone
h. Real Time Clock
i. Joystick Counter*
if you just bought your T68, the Joystick moves should be at a very low count, or else bring it back to shop (apparently been used before !)

T610

A (P) will appear when the number 7 key is pressed and held.

Samsung/Philips/Pantech/Panasonic/ Code

2008-09-05T06:20:00.000-07:00

Samsung *2767*3855# - FULL E2P RESET *2767*2878# - CUSTOM E2P RESET #*7337# - UNLOCK *2767*688# - UNLOCK *#0523# - CONTRAST *#9998*523# - CONTRAST *#8999*8378# - Service Menu (X100)

Philips #20021208# ok - 630 without SIM (erase flash) *#7728*# - RSAV DONE *#3849*# - ??? reboot *#3851*# - ??? reboot Philips 568 *01763*737381# - reset

Pantech *01763*737381# - master reset (user data, user code) without SIM *01763*8371# - SW version *01763*6371# - UNLOCK
*01763*3641# - Menu

Panasonic *01763*737381# - master reset (user data, user code) A100, A101, A102,G50, G51, G70, GD55.. *369#(*) - MENU , 7,4, 6, menu, menu - lock menu *#9999# - 5 sec after power on - SW version (GD75, GD67, GD87..)

Accessing E-mail and Webmail in your PSP

2008-09-04T15:12:00.000-07:00

The number one use for the Internet is accessing e-mail. The PSP does not ship with a mail
client, and rightly so—it would have to store its messages on the Memory Stick, which is
expensive storage, and there’s no keyboard. However, the PSP is an ideal reader for many types of media, including e-mail, so all you need is a Web browser, the right Web site to retrieve your
e-mail, and a Wi-Fi connection.
If your Web mail server requires a certain port to be used, such as http://mail
.servername.com:8383, you have to enter the http:// as well as the :8383. If you don’t
enter the http://, the PSP’s Web browsers will usually time out (this is a bug in Sony’s software,
it’s not your server).
If you already have Web mail access, go ahead and use that. Most Web mail programs should
work fine with any of the PSP Web browsers (including Microsoft Exchange Webmail).
However, if you don’t already have Webmail access, you don’t have to go get your own server or
kidnap a hacker. Simply point your browser to https://mail2web.com/. Mail2Web is a
free service that enables you to enter your e-mail address and password and send and receive
mail from anywhere with just your PSP and an Internet connection.
If you want to use your cell phone with Mail2Web, go to http://mail2web.com/wap.

Accessing e-mail on the PSP with Mail2Web

Sony PSP Web Browser Tips
Here are a few tips to save you a lot of time when using the official Sony PSP Web browser
that shipped starting with PSP Firmware 2.0:
Use the Bookmark feature, which is the same as Internet Explorer’s Favorites feature. It
saves you a lot of typing.To access the bookmarks feature, press ^ to access the Web
browser menu, and then go to the picture of the heart and press x. Press x on
Bookmarks.To add a bookmark, navigate to the page you want to bookmark, and then
go to your bookmarks and select Add to Bookmarks.
If you use the bookmarks feature of Sony’s Web browser, a Memory Stick must be inserted for
the PSP to save the bookmarks file.

When you need to scroll around a page, hold downd square button then use the analog (round)
stick to scroll the page up, down, left. and right.
If you often visit the same site first, such as your Webmail, RSS feeds, search engine, and
so forth, make it your default home page.To set your default home page, press ^ to
open the Web browser menu, and then scroll over to the toolbox icon, and press x.
Select Settings and press x. Then select Home Page Settings and press x. Enter
the home page you would like to use, and then press x to save it. Now whenever you
press x on the Home icon in the PSP menu, you are taken to the Web site you just
entered.
If you have to use a proxy server on your network, press ^ to open the Web browser
menu, and then scroll over to the toolbox icon and press x . Select Settings and
press x . Then select Proxy Server Settings and press x . Enter your proxy information
and you should be able to browse the Web. Unfortunately, Sony’s Web browser
doesn’t support profiles, so if you switch networks, you will have to remove and re-enter
proxy information as needed.

Configuring your PSP for Networking

2008-09-04T14:23:00.000-07:00

The PSP is the first portable game system with built-in wireless networking
capabilities for gaming with many people (instead of just
one-to-one like many handhelds) and a full TCP stack for access to
the Internet. The PSP is the only handheld game system ever made that
enables more than two players to play a game, just like regular console systems!
Although there are no commercial Web browsers or other Internet
applications available yet, we will be going over how to get around that little
issue in Chapter 6, “The Web on Your PSP.” In this chapter, we’ll go over
how to get the wireless access configured properly and how to extend your
wireless range so you can play with friends from far away and browse the
Net from a little further down the street.

While the PSP has wireless out the wazoo with its 802.11b and
infrared transceiver, a notable missing wireless topology is
Bluetooth. Bluetooth could have enabled many wireless keyboards
and mice to work with the system, which would have
been nice. Of course, Sony could have something up its sleeve.

Configuring Wireless Internet Access
Setting up the PSP to get on the Internet via Wi-Fi is fairly easy. Let’s go
through those steps now.
Turning Wireless On and Off
To enable and disable the built-in wireless of your PSP, simply flip the
switch on its left side. Up enables wireless and down disables it. This doesn’t
turn wireless on, however. Games and applications selectively turn the wireless
feature on and off, so you can safely leave the switch up and it will only
actually be “on” when an application needs it.

You can tell if your wireless is being used when the wireless access light is flickering

The wireless access light on the PSP

Set Up a Networking Profile
The PSP’s networking capabilities are very similar to a Macintosh’s, where you can set up different
network profiles for use in different locations. This will be very helpful in Chapter 6,
“The Web on Your PSP,” which presents a profile for regular use, and then one specifically for
your “hacked” network.
To set up a network profile, go to the PSP Navigator, select Settings, and then select Network
Settings . You are given two options, both of which pertain only to wireless
networking—Ad Hoc Mode and Infrastructure Mode . If you’re not familiar
with the difference between the two, read the sidebar “Wireless Modes in Focus: Ad Hoc and
Infrastructure.” Ad Hoc Mode is generally used when playing head-to-head with multiple
PSPs in close proximity (10–20 feet), as it doesn’t require a base station. Infrastructure is useful
when there are multiple people in different rooms and you use a central base station to connect.

There are two types of connections in wireless networks: Ad Hoc and Infrastructure. In Ad Hoc
networks, there is no central access point—all devices communicate with each other directly
instead of having an access point to run all communications through. With an Ad Hoc network,
there is no guarantee that all devices can see each other, because their “vision” is limited to
whatever devices they can receive receptions for (or “hear”).
Infrastructure networks, on the other hand, are the most common type of wireless network connection.
Utilizing a central base station, called a wireless access point, all devices connect to the
access point, then relay all their interdevice communications through the single device. Each
device connects to the base station based on its SSID, or service-station ID, which is the name
you see when you try to “join” a wireless network. Most home networks have infrastructure
networks to connect out to the Internet and to communicate wirelessly with both wireless and
wired devices.
Most of the time you are involved with multiplayer games you will be using Ad Hoc networks.
However, when you’re browsing the Internet on your PSP you will usually be using an
Infrastructure connection.

The Network Settings option in the PSP Navigator

The wireless network mode selector under the PSP Network Settings option

It’s actually a good thing that most PSP games limit wireless play to eight players. As wireless
networks get more and more crowded, the devices’ transmissions adversely affect the overall
available bandwidth and you could lose data and therefore have poor gameplay. Remember,
when you’re on an 11 Mbps wireless network, you’re sharing that bandwidth with everybody
else, so the more you do on the network, the less bandwidth that’s available for others. This is
especially true if you’re trying to play a PSP game with eight people while someone’s downloading
a huge file and printing a large document over your wireless network—there’s a good possibility
of losing packets and having issues with gaming.
Let’s go through configuration of both network types. Some games may actually require one
type over another—the back of the box says “Wi-Fi Compatible (Ad Hoc/Infrastructure),” Some games may not support wireless play at all and won’t have the Wi-
Fi Compatible logo on their box at all.

Creating an Ad-Hoc Wireless Profile
If you’re just going to do some quick gaming with friends, you all need to have the same network
name, or SSID, so you can all connect with each other. Once everyone has the same profile,
you can all connect and play your games together.
The PSP doesn’t actually let you set your SSID in Ad Hoc Mode, so it just defaults to a generic
name beginning with PSP, followed by a number of different characters. This can vary depending
on the game you’re playing, too, as some games will set a different SSID to differentiate the
PSP hosting the game from the other PSPs in the vicinity (which may be hosting games, too).
Unfortunately, this means anyone with a PSP and the same game could potentially join in your
game (if your game supports uninvited joins), so feel free to be paranoid and check to see who’s
around you before you start a wireless match.
If you switch to Ad Hoc Mode, you will have to switch back to Infrastructure Mode at the
Network Setting menu before you can use your PSP in infrastructure mode again.

Follow these steps to set up an Ad Hoc network:
1. Use the PSP Navigator to select Settings and then Network Settings. Select the Ad Hoc
Mode option and press X
2. Set the channel to Automatic and press X.
3. Press X to save the settings.

Creating an Infrastructure Wireless Profile
If you’re at home and want to connect to other PSPs on your existing wireless home network
(i.e., you don’t want to set up a separate PSP network, which would be called an Ad Hoc network,
described earlier), you need to set up an Infrastructure profile.
If you switch to Infrastructure Mode, you have to switch back to Ad Hoc Mode at the Network
Settings menu before you can use your PSP in Ad Hoc Mode again.

Follow these steps to set up an Infrastructure network:
1. Use the PSP Navigator to select Settings and then Network Settings. Select the
Infrastructure Mode option and press >.
2. Select New Connection and press >.
3. Enter a name for the connection (see the PSP manual for instructions on how to enter
text), and then press >.
4. Enter the SSID of the base station you will be using (this would likely be the same one
your computers use to connect to the Internet). If you don’t know the SSID, use the arrows
to move down to Scan and press X to choose a list of available base stations from a list.

By default, many base stations broadcast the SSID so other systems can detect them and use
them. However, if you or the network administrator for the wireless network has disabled SSID
broadcasting, you will likely be forced to enter the SSID. Use a program like NetStumbler (search
on Google for it) to detect wireless networks in the area and you can get around this problem
(but you’ll have to have a wireless-enabled PC to run the application).
5. If your network has a WEP network key, move down with the arrow pad and enter your
WEP key, or leave it as None. Then press >

6. If you have a DHCP server (most wireless networks do), select Easy mode. If you want
to enter a custom IP address, gateway address, and/or DNS server address, select
Custom. Then press >.
7. Press > to save your settings.
8. You can optionally test your settings here as well. Your new connection will appear in the
list of available networks to use next time you are in a game that supports infrastructure
mode.

Speeding Up Wireless Internet Access
To save battery life, the PSP defaults to a “wireless power saving” mode, which lowers the
transmit and receive speed of the built-in wireless.To improve wireless performance, especially
for Internet access, you should turn that mode off. Of course, it will eat more battery power,
but play around with it and see what you think.
You may actually need to disable the wireless power saving mode, as some wireless access points
and devices aren’t compatible with the power saving feature of the PSP, so knowing how to do
this may help you when you can’t connect in certain places.
Follow these steps to disable wireless power saving mode:
1. Use the PSP Navigator to select Settings, and then Power Settings.
2. Select the WLAN Power Save option and press X to select it (see Figure 5-5).
3. Set the option to Off and press X again.

Disabling WLAN Power Save mode

Why Is It Called 802.11?
Many people wonder what the heck the 802.11a, b, and g stand for. The IEEE (Institute of
Electrical and Electronics Engineers), the same people who brought your IEEE-1394 (also called
FireWire, iLink, and so forth) is an established standards body that has defined many technologies
via its internal open working groups (WGs). 802.11 is named this due to its IEEE working
group being group 802.11. IEEE Project 802 is also called the LAN/MAN Standards Committee,
or LMSC, and the 802.11 working group handles wireless LANs. Tens of millions of IEEE 802.11
devices have been deployed worldwide and are interoperable.
IEEE 802.11 has many flavors. The most widespread today is 802.11b (named after IEEE 802.11
working group B), which operates in the unlicensed ISM (Industrial, Scientific, and Medical)
band at approximately 2.45 GHz, and can transmit up to 11 Mbps. Newly available 802.11
flavors include 802.11a and 802.11g. 802.11a and g support speeds up to 54 Mbps (in the
standard, proprietary solutions claim faster speeds), and operate in the ISM band, as well as
the newly unlicensed U-NII (Unlicensed National Information Infrastructure) band, at 5.2 and
5.8 GHz.
Even though 802.11 is a standard, its availability is restricted in different regions of the world
because of varying regulations. Generally, 802.11b in the United States has 13 broadcast channels
available for use (3 optimal ones because they are non-overlapping), and 802.11a in the
United States supports 140 channels, with 12 non-overlapping optimal channels. However, in
France and Spain, the various channels available to 802.11b and g users are severely limited
(1 non-overlapping channel), while there are actually more channels available in Japan
(13 channels, 3 non-overlapping). Take note: Even though 802.11a provides so many optimal
channels, the international legalization of its 5.2 GHz frequency use has not been standardized,
so outside-U.S. deployments may run into broadcast legal issues. Another note: The 5.2 GHz
U-NII spectrum is also used by microwave landing systems to help planes land in bad weather.

Opening Up Your PSP and Removing Parts

2008-09-04T13:35:00.000-07:00

The following tells you, step-by-step, how to open up and remove the main parts of your
PSP.To put your PSP back together, just perform these steps in reverse order.

Step 1: Prepare the PSP
Be very careful working with your PSP. Just like a medical operation, you need to take precautions.
The first step is to place the PSP face down on the electrostatic mat or white towel (only
if there’s no static), and to put on your static wrist strap and ground it appropriately. Using the
mat or towel prevents scratches to the PSP’s plastic screen cover.

Remove any Memory Stick and UMD game cartridge you have loaded, and remove the battery
from your PSP.
below is a diagram of the locations of the screws on the backplane and battery compartment.
Print this diagram and when you remove a screw, place it on the diagram on a flat surface
far enough from where you’re working (and away from pets) so you don’t bump into it.
Using a little bit of two-sided tape can help as well, keeping the screws in place, but that’s generally
overkill as long as you’re careful.

Step 2: Remove the Back Plane
The PSP’s back plane (the side with the word PSP in a circle) is your doorway to the insides of
your PSP. You’re going to need to remove the battery cover to complete this step. Note that
some of the screws are covered by a sticker, which you will have to move out of the way or
remove altogether to access. However, removing that sticker likely voids your warranty, so be
prepared.
You need to remove eight screws with your Philips head screwdriver. The screw holes have a
very narrow radius, so this is where the thin shaft of the screwdriver and the magnetic tip come
into play. Make sure you don’t strip the screw heads.

Once you’ve removed all the screws (don’t leave them loose in their sockets), gently separate the
backplane from the cover. At this point the clear Left and Right triggers (marked as L and R)
may come out— that’s okay, because they rely on the case being together to stay where they
are. You can safely leave them off and just slide them back into place when you put your PSP
back together (you’ll see the grooves they slide into).
Put the faceplate away in a safe location, face-up, so you don’t scratch the plastic, and put the
PSP face-up in front of you. You should now see the guts of your PSP,
including the screen, the bottom button bar, what that slick analog stick looks like underneath,
and your arrow and shape button contacts.
If you have to put the L and R buttons back in when putting your PSP back together, make sure
they move like they did before. When they are properly in place, they will move like they’re supposed
to (like triggers). You know you’ve got it wrong if they don’t have any spring action when
you press them—in that case, just reseat them and make sure they’re in the proper grooves
on your PSP.

The last screw hides under a warranty-voiding sticker

The first layer of PSP guts

Step 3: Remove the Metal Button Bar
Now that you’ve removed the faceplate and can see the guts of your system, it’s time to remove
the screen. In order to do this you’re first going to have to remove the metal button bar on the
bottom of the device

To remove the metal button bar, simply pry a little on the metal catch to left of the bar and
very gently lift it out at an angle. It is connected to the PSP’s mainboard by a circuit strip connector.
You need to very carefully move the circuit strip connector up with the flat-blade screwdriver
so you can pull the circuit strip out of its holder (the tan tab). Remember which side was
up when you pull the circuit strip out or the button bar won’t work when you put it back in.

Step 4: Remove the Screen
Now that you’ve removed the button bar, you can remove the screen. This part’s a little tricky
because you don’t want to crack the screen or bend any metal. Patience and gentleness are
virtues during this entire process—your PSP is at stake here!
On the bottom-left corner of the screen is a metal piece in between the analog stick controller
board and the display, making up part of the metal border of the screen.Wedge the thin flatblade
screwdriver into that crevice and the metal wedge should pop up and out a little bit. Do
the same on the top-left, and now you should be able to carefully wiggle the screen out. Be very
careful; do not bend the display or pry too hard or you may crack the LCD panel or irreparably
bend the metal—hence the reason for the very thin precision flat-blade screwdriver.

To remove the screen completely, you have to remove more circuit strips (and pay attention to
which angle you had to open their catches and which way the circuit strip goes in). The long
connector on the left lifts from the bottom, while the shorter one on the right lifts from the top

Once you have removed the screen, place it face-down on a towel to prevent scratching.
Preferably, you should put it somewhere it won’t fall onto a hard surface.

Step 5: Remove the Metal Screen Holder
Now that you removed the display, you need to remove the metal display holder so you can
access the PSP’s mainboard.To do this, you need to remove the nine remaining screws with the
precision Philips-head screwdriver. After you have removed each screw, place it in the appropriate
position on your copy of the screw location diagram. In addition to the screws, the metal
screen holder is held in place by the release switch for the UMD drive. Gently slide it to the
right to release its grip on the metal, then all you have to do is gently lift out the display holder

The metal screen holder with the nine screws removed

Step 6: Carefully Remove the Circuit Strips
Now that you’ve removed the screen holder, you need to get to the mainboard. You need to
remove the circuit strip connecting the UMD drive to the mainboard. Be very careful, as the first time I did this the solder was weak the circuit strip holder
actually came off the mainboard! Then remove the power plug at the top left, but not the small
ones on the bottom of the board, while continuing to be careful not to break any wires or
solder.

Once you disconnect the cables, you may still have one more step to complete depending on
how your PSP was made. You may see the black wireless antenna cable running alongside the
top of your PSP . Gently remove this from the groove it runs through on the
top left of the mainboard so you can successfully remove the mainboard.

The PSP’s wireless antenna

Step 7: Remove the Mainboard
Now that the cables are out of the way, gently lift up the mainboard and put it aside. If you take a look at the mainboard, you’ll see the ARM-based processor Sony
uses, their graphics chip and USB controller, as well as many other items.

The mainboard successfully removed

All this work and you’re still not at the Wi-Fi interface yet! (I sure wish Sony had made this
easier.) To get to the final piece, the Wi-Fi card, you need to remove the shielding plate by
using your precision Philips-head to remove the three remaining screens holding it in place

The screws holding the Wi-Fi card in place

Step 9: Remove the Wi-Fi + Memory Stick Board
Now here’s the final piece: the Wi-Fi communications board, which also houses the Memory
Stick interface, as shown in Figure 4-16. You can remove this piece if you like and see an
entirely gutted PSP, or just start putting things back together (good thing you have those screw
diagrams!) or fidgeting around. Note that the Wi-Fi board has a socket connector, making
upgrading or replacing the antenna fairly easy (well, besides the PSP disassembly step), . Appendix A has a link to an online project to add an external wireless
antenna. If you’ve come so far that you’re at the Wi-Fi + Memory Stick board, feel free to
try that project. I did not discuss it in detail in this book because most people may not take
apart their PSP so fully (there’s usually no reason other than for exploratory purposes).

The PSP’s Wi-Fi board, Memory Stick interface, and antenna socket connector

Knowing
how the PSP ticks on the inside is important for any hardware hacks you may want to attempt,
including fixing your PSP yourself when sending it to Sony is not an option.

Saving Xbox to your PSP

2008-09-04T12:37:00.000-07:00

This is a funny hack, considering how Sony and Microsoft are bitter rivals in the game console
market. Using the PSP’s USB connectivity, and the Xbox’s ability to recognize USB storage
devices, you can use the Memory Stick in your PSP as a game-saving tool.
Don’t worry; even though this hack formats your Memory Stick, it won’t affect your PSP’s
internals at all. You’re not risking your PSP by plugging it into an Xbox.
Here’s what you need:
Microsoft Phantasy Star Online Keyboard Adapter or Xbox Controller USB Adapter

The Phantasy Star Online Keyboard Adapter

The Xbox Controller USB Adapter

A Memory Stick you don’t care about, like the 32MB one that shipped with the PSP
Value Pack (it will be erased by this operation, but you can still use it again by formatting
it on the PSP)
An appropriate USB cable (mini-USB to full-size USB)
An Xbox and games you want to save data for
You may also need a USB gender-bender, taking the PSP connector from male to female,
which is shown in Figure 3-16. This depends on what the adapter’s USB connection looks like.
Most likely you won’t need it, but if you do you can pick it up at any CompUSA, Fry’s, Best
Buy, or other computer store.
The Phantasy Star Online Keyboard Adapter has been discontinued by Microsoft. However, if
you cannot find one online, you can still get a USB adapter that plugs into the front of your
Xbox. The only drawback to this is you have to sacrifice a controller port, so no 4-player games
if you want to save on the PSP. The Phantasy Star Online Keyboard Adapter, on the other hand,
plugs into any Xbox controller. You’re likely not saving 4-player games on your PSP, of course, so
this shouldn’t be a problem. When you’re done with the save, simply unplug the PSP. When you
need it again, just plug it back in.

A USB gender-bender

Using the PSP as an Xbox game saving device makes the Memory Stick unusable in the PSP. To
use the Memory Stick in your PSP again, you have to format it with the PSP’s format utility.

Step 1: Get to the Save Game Point in an Xbox Game
The first step is to find an Xbox game and get to the point where it will let you save a game. I
chose Halo, but you can choose whatever you want. You actually don’t have to have a game in
there—you can just use the Xbox’s configuration menu’s storage devices

Step 2: Plug Your PSP into the Xbox USB Adapter
Now that you’re ready to save your game, plug your PSP into the Xbox USB adapter using the
adapter and the USB cable.
Microsoft’s Xbox runs a modified version of the Windows 2000 operating system, and the
Xbox’s controller ports are all USB-based, so that’s why this hack works.

Connecting the Xbox adapter

Step 3: Put Your PSP in USB Connection Mode
Place your PSP in USB Connection Mode by using the PSP Navigator to open Settings, then
USB Connection. Your Xbox should detect the PSP as a memory card and display an error
message, as shown below.

The Xbox informing you it has formatted your Memory Stick for use

Step 4: Save
Press A on your Xbox controller to continue and you see your hard disk and the new Memory
Stick, ready for game saving action! below shows you what this should look like. Now,
simply save your game and you’re all set. This is quite convenient if you want to take game
saves between your friends’ houses and don’t want to plunk down the money for the Xbox
Memory Units.

The PSP shows up as a storage device on the Xbox

Changing the PSP’s Background Color

2008-09-04T12:34:00.000-07:00

You know that background color for Navigator screens that seems to magically change every
once in a while? Well, the truth is it’s keyed on the PSP’s date settings.To change your background
color, simply change the date on your PSP, like this:
1. Go to Settings.
2. Go to Date and Time Settings.
3. Change the month in the date (see Table 3-2 for a list of colors).

Table 3-2 Month colors on the PSP
Month - Background color
January - Silver
February - Light Gold
March - Lime Green
April - Pink
May - Green
June - Periwinkle Blue
July - Sky Blue
August - Pure Blue + Sky Blue (it’s mixed)
September - Purple
October - Gold
November - Bronze
December - Red

New Background Features in Firmware 2.0

With Firmware 2.0 (a.k.a. System Update 2.0), Sony introduced the ability to change the
background color to any of the colors mentioned in Table 3-2, although it’s possible that future
firmware versions may let you choose any color. You can even set a photo to be your background,
or wallpaper, image if you have images on your Memory Stick.
To change your background color, open the PSP Navigator and select Settings, then Theme
Settings, then Theme, and set your background color by pressing X on the color of your choice.
If you change the setting back to Original, it will go back to the monthly color changing
scheme.

Changing Your Wallpaper

To set your wallpaper image, open the PSP Navigator, select Photo, and then select the image
you want as your wallpaper (background image) by pressing X on the selected image.When
the image is displayed, press TRIANGLE, and select the icon for “Set as Wallpaper” and press
X. Select Yes when your PSP asks you if you want it to set the image as the wallpaper. Then
press O when it says “Save completed” and your wallpaper is set.
To disable your wallpaper, open the PSP Navigator and select Settings, then Theme Settings,
and then Wallpaper. Change the option from Use to Do Not Use to turn off your wallpaper.
You can set it to Use to turn it back on again. After turning off your wallpaper, your background
color reappears.

Syncing the PSP with Your Computer

2008-09-04T12:29:00.000-07:00

A number of utilities have emerged that automatically sync your PSP’s saved game data, music,
music, photos, movies, and even Web site bookmarks. These products include iPSP, PSPWare,
PSP Sync, PSP Video 9, Browser 2 PSP (I wrote that one), and a number of others. iPSP and
PSPWare are the most popular “all around syncing” utilities, while PSP Video 9 is the most
popular video conversion and sync product (plus it’s free). I cover these products in detail in
Chapter 10, “Video Hacks,” and Chapter 23, “Synchronization and Utility Software.”
You don’t have to use a program to move data from your PC to your PSP or vice versa. Using
the PSP’s built-in USB connection capability, you can back up your games, transfer music,
images, and video back and forth, and even transfer your Web bookmarks. Of course, it’s a little
more difficult because you have to do all the manual work, and the utilities I discuss do a lot of
the work for you automatically, but it’s fairly simple if you don’t want to install additional software
on your machine.

PSP Media location

Media type Location
Video MP_ROOT \ 100MNV01
Audio PSP \ MUSIC
Photos PSP \ PHOTO
Games PSP \ GAME
Saved games PSP \ SAVEDATA
Browser data PSP \ SYSTEM \ BROWSER
Shared data (usually the default PSP \ SHARED
location for Web browser downloads)

The PSP as a Storage Device

2008-09-04T12:22:00.000-07:00

With a Memory Stick and a PSP with an appropriate USB cable, the PSP can be used
to save any sort of data file, ultimately becoming a very large “thumb” drive. The PSP ships
with USB 2.0, so transferring your movies will happen at speeds (up to) 440 Mbps (megabits
per second), and your capacity is only limited by the Memory Stick you have. If you don’t want
to carry a bunch of thumb drives, just take your PSP with you and a decent size Memory Stick
Duo and you can play games and transfer files, without carrying any extra equipment.
Here’s what you need:
A Memory Stick in your PSP’s Memory Stick slot
A USB to mini-USB cable
A computer (Mac, PC, and Linux should work fine; no drivers required)

Follow these steps to turn on the USB data transfer function:
1. Plug the mini-USB end of your USB cable into your PSP and the
other end into your computer.

2. Go to Settings in Navigator.
3. Select USB Connection and press .
Your drive appears on your computer desktop.

Don’t delete any of the folders that exist on your memory card that you didn’t create yourself.
Removing those can erase your saved game data, among other settings the PSP needs on that
Memory Stick.

Sony PSP UMD, the “Universal” Media Disc

2008-09-04T12:16:00.000-07:00

UMD, or Universal Media Disc, is the official distributed media format for the PSP. You can
use Memory Stick Duo media (and standard Memory Sticks as well, which is discussed in the
next chapter); however, most PSP games utilize UMD discs, which for the time being cannot
be copied (although it is possible to “dump” their contents to the Memory Stick using certain
utilities this book does not discuss).
UMDs are optical discs that can hold up to 1.8GB of any type of data, just like a DVD or CD.
The “official” UMD formats are UMD Game, UMD Music, and UMD Video. In addition to
game distribution houses, Sony has licensed a number of movie studios (such as Universal,
Paramount, and New Line Home Cinema) to release UMD Video titles. Sony has also discussed
submitting the format for standardization, but this seems unlikely for the near future, as
control over the recorders would become an issue due to piracy.

Piracy is likely the reason for the proprietary UMD format, plus the fact that it appears to be
based on the HiMD MiniDisc media format, a product Sony failed to bring to successful
mass-market penetration many years ago. Hackers have already figured out a way to dump the
data from a UMD to a CD or DVD, but Sony attempted to stop this type of copyright
infringement in firmware update 1.51.
Here are the specifications for the UMD media format (source:Wikipedia, http://
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Media_Disc):
ECMA (an international standards body) standard number ECMA-365: Data
Interchange on 60 mm Read-Only ODC (optical disc cartridge). More information on
the standard can be found at http://www.ecma-international.org/
publications/standards/Ecma-365.htm.
Capacity: 1.8 GB (UMD)
Dimensions: Approx. 65 mm (W) × 64 mm (D) × 4.2 mm (H)
Diameter: 60 mm
Maximum capacity: 1.80GB (single-sided, dual layer)
Laser wavelength: 660 nm (red laser)
Encryption: AES 128-bit (decryption of which is built into the PSP’s hardware)
Conforms to ISO-9660 file format, the same as CDs and DVDs.
A good site to discuss the UMD format is UMD Talk, http://www.umdtalk
.co.uk.

Sony PSP Strategy

2008-09-04T12:08:00.000-07:00

With the PSP, Sony is not just going for the wanna-play-all-the-timegimme-
awesome-graphics gamer. Instead, their focus is on a great gaming
device that can do “everything else” and attracts the young, the teens, the
twenty-somethings, and older audiences. Younger audiences will want the
games and movies, while older audiences, through a brilliant “buy UMD
movies everywhere and play media anywhere” strategy, will buy the unit as a
portable movie player and media device.When the Playstation 3 comes out,
Sony will integrate the media capabilities of the PSP with Playstation 3’s
media center focus and extend the “media anywhere” gaming and media
solution. Coupled with the wireless Internet capabilities, Sony could potentially
deliver home media stored on a Playstation 3 (or other Sony devices)
to the PSP anywhere you can get Wi-Fi access. Pretty cool, huh?

Full Technical Specifications of PSP

Here are the fairly official technical specifications of Sony’s flagship handheld:
Size: 170 mm (6.7 in) in length, 74 mm (2.9 in) in width, and 23
mm (0.9 in) in depth, weighs 280g / .62 lbs (Source:Wikipedia)
Processor: 32-bit MIPS “R4000” 4KE or 24KE, dual-core. Primary
core is for standard system functions, including hardware-based data
decryption. Second core, called the “Virtual Mobile Engine,” is for
graphics processing, including native H.264 decoding.
■ Speed: 1-333 MHz (although Sony has made mention to a cap of
222 MHz to conserve battery life)
Programmers can get around the 222 MHz barrier in code.
■ Runs on 0.8 to 1.2 volts
■ Designed using a 90-nanometer process

Graphics: Runs at 166 MHz, reconfigurable to handle particular processing tasks.
■ 2 megabytes video memory
■ Supports a maximum of 33 million polygons/second, although the effective polygon
performance is likely much lower (many critics don’t like the “max” polygons
rating because it excludes the use of effects like lighting, fog, and so forth)
■ 664 million pixels/second maximum fill rate
■ 512-bit interface
■ Supports 16-bit and 32-bit color modes (32,768 colors and 16.77 million colors)
Audio: Supports Stereo sound, Dolby Headphone sound. Supports playback of WAV,
ATRAC and MP3 (MPEG-1 Audio Layer 3) audio in Firmware 1.0 and 1.5, and adds
AAC (MPEG-4) audio in Firmware 2.0.
Display: 4.3" (diagonal) 480 × 272 Widescreen display, 16:9 aspect ratio, just like
widescreen DVDs and HDTV
RAM: 32MB of RAM. 4MB of DRAM; half (2MB) is connected to the main core, and
the other 2MB is for media processing functions.
Storage:The PSP has the following storage capabilities:
■ Sony Memory Stick Duo slot takes only Memory Stick Duo media (although
Chapter 3, “Quickies,” covers using standard Memory Stick media, which is usually
cheaper).
■ UMD discs support up to 1.8GBeach and basically any type of data. Official formats
include UMD-Game, UMD-Video, and UMD-Music. This appears to be
based on Sony’s MiniDisc format.
■ USB 2.0 port supports data transfers up to 480 megabits/second.
■ Supports sharing of files on inserted Memory Stick with a USB-capable computer.
Power: Includes 1800 mAh Lithium Ion (LIon) battery, provides 4–6 hours of battery
life (Sony offers an official 220 mAh battery as well, and third parties such as Datel have
batteries providing 3600 mAh).
■ A/C charger included with package yields 2000 mAh
■ Capable of charging using power provided via a computer’s USB 2.0 port
Networking: Built-in 802.11b (11 megabits/second max throughput) wireless supports
both ad hoc (computer-to-computer) and infrastructure (device-to-access point) modes.
■ IrDA (Infrared Data Association) line-of-sight communications
■ IR Remote (SIRCS compliant), although no “official” remote control software was
available at the time this book went to press
■ Potential to use USB port for other networking devices, should they ever be
released
Navigation system: Uses Sony’s XMB, or Cross Media Bar, interface, used in some Sony
TVs and their PSX product. (I call this the “PSP Navigator” in this book.)
Region coding: Supports region coding of games, music, movies, and photos on UMD
discs, similar to how DVDs do the same thing to prevent media use in other regions of
the world.

Video Capabilities

Everything considered, the PSP’s graphic capabilities are roughly the equivalent of the PS2. But
how can that be? Well, the PSP’s 480 × 272 maximum resolution is quite a bit less than a PS2’s
1280 × 1024, but its rendering capabilities for the 480 × 272 resolution match what the PS2 can
do at 1280 × 1024. So what does this mean to you? It means PS2 games should easily be ported
to the PSP, and the graphics should be similar if not identical.

Battery Life

Compared to other portable gaming systems, the PSP is not only more powerful, it’s also more
power hungry. Indeed, with a 333 MHz processor, ultra-bright widescreen color display, wireless
networking, and an optical UMD drive to run, the battery is working overtime to make
sure you stay entertained for hours on end. Thankfully, Sony has included a rechargeable 1800
mAh Lithium Ion battery to help out—normal alkaline batteries wouldn’t survive the load for
long and would be darn expensive to replace all the time.
On a full charge, you will get (and independent organizations have confirmed this) up to six
hours of battery life when playing video games, and up to four hours for movies. This is assuming
you’re running the screen at half intensity and half volume with wireless off. I tend to run
with the brightness and volume all the way up, so take about 10 percent off that figure if you
play the same way.

Network Capabilities

Excluding games on PDAs and cell phones, the PSP is the only mass-market game system ever
shipped with robust networking capabilities: 802.11b wireless, IrDA, and a Web browser (in
firmware 2.0 and above). The PSP can also update itself over the Internet, making it the first
mass-market handheld product with a network update function, similar to Microsoft’s
Windows Update feature and Apple’s Software Update function.

PSP Firmware Versions and Why They Matter

The PSP has a “flashable” firmware, meaning it can be updated with bug fixes, and upgraded
with new capabilities. This enables Sony to support new technologies as they emerge, address
vulnerabilities in the PSP software (such as Web browser and buffer overrun vulnerabilities),
and keep the product competitive as the market evolves. Unfortunately for us hackers, Sony
removed the ability to program the PSP on our own starting with the 1.51 “update,” which featured
“security updates”—just another way of saying “we don’t want software developers.” Of
course, you don’t have to update to run most games on your 1.0 or 1.5 firmware PSP, and there
are utilities, such as the WAB Version Changer (available from the official Hacking the PSP
Web site) to get around such issues. Chapter 16, “Reverting from a 2.0 PSP to a 1.5 PSP,” discusses
how to downgrade a firmware 2.0 PSP (not 2.01 or higher) back to version 1.5.
If you are not going to program the PSP, the upgrades from Sony can be quite a boon.With
firmware update 2.0, officially named System Software 2.0, Sony added a Web browser,
enhanced wireless network access (supporting additional encryption technologies such as WPA
and PSK), and support for MPEG-4, or AAC, audio files. These new features greatly
enhanced the PSP’s already impressive media capabilities.

My PSP

2008-09-04T12:02:00.000-07:00

In the PSP, Sony has engineered a true marvel of technology. Combining amazingly powerful
data and media processing capabilities with a slim, long-life, portable form factor, Sony has literally
started the next generation of media on-the-go. Competitors such as Apple, Creative,
iRiver and many others are sure to latch onto the ability to have any type of media, anywhere
you go. Add into the equation the power of built-in wireless Internet access, and any number of
productivity and media applications, coupled with the high-resolution screen, and the PSP
truly becomes a one-stop device.
Unfortunately, Sony has limited the capabilities of the PSP by letting only humongous game
companies write applications for it, and letting it play only limited (yet omnipresent) music and
media formats with no chance for the grass roots developers, now called “hackers,” to write
powerful applications and build an industry around the PSP. Many companies have done this
before, and hackers have always found a way around it. In this book we’ll make the PSP do a
lot of the stuff we know it can do.

What you need to hack

For the majority of these hacks, any PSP will do. There have been many firmware revisions
(also called “system software” revisions) for the PSP. The first PSP, released only in Japan, was
version 1.0. The U.S. PSP launched with version 1.5. Updates have been released—versions
1.51, 1.52, and 2.0, among others.
The only sections that are truly affected by firmware versions are the programming chapters,
and the ability to run “homebrew” applications that you download from the Internet. There
have been hundreds, if not thousands of homebrew applications released, ranging from simple
console applications to neat games to PDA-like applications to old game system and Linux
emulators.
PSP firmware 1.0 allowed you to run these homebrew applications without any modification. PSP
firmware 1.5 attempted to lock out homebrew applications (apparently, Sony doesn’t want you
running software on your PSP from which they get no royalities). Hackers got around this limitation
with a few “exploits” that let you run the homebrew software on the U.S. PSPs, which
shipped with only firmware 1.5.

With a firmware update feature built into the PSP, Sony quickly released a “System Software
Update” (version 1.51) that was supposed to “increase the security of the PSP operating system.”
This was code for “we’re gonna stop the hackers with this update.” The update appeared
to have foiled anybody’s attempt to launch homebrew applications from then on until some
genius hackers were able to take advantage of an exploit in Sony’s PSP operating system and
downgrade a version 2.0 PSP to version 1.5. Other attempts have been made to re-enable
homebrew applications to run on firmware versions 2.01 and beyond, but as of the writing of
this book that had not been completed successfully.
It’s always a good idea to update your PSP manually instead of using the built-in update feature.
This way, you get to keep the EBOOT.PBP, which is the application that updates your PSP. Should
you need that EBOOT again, you will have access to it—otherwise you can’t “roll back” should
you need to. This is a good practice to get into for any hardware platform you are hacking: only
update when you need to, and always have a backup!
Of course, over one million PSPs have been sold with the 1.5 firmware, so chances are your
PSP came with that version. (You learn how to check your firmware version in Chapter 19,
“Running Homebrew Applications.) You can also find version 1.5 PSPs in stores that sell used
equipment, such as GameStop, EB Games, eBay, and many others. If your PSP came with or
you have upgraded to firmware 2.0, which includes a host of new features as well as an official
Sony Web browser, you can still downgrade that device to 1.5 using the hack in Chapter 16,
“Reverting from a 2.0 PSP to a 1.5 PSP.”
Either way, you can enjoy all of the hacks in this book, except the programming hacks, with
any version of a PSP. Of course, if you want to program the PSP, I recommend getting a version
that can run the hacks, because it’s a lot of fun (then again, I’m a software developer).
Another item you should have handy is a USB cable to connect your PSP to your computer
(these are usually mini-USB to full-size USB cables, available from any computer or electronics
store). The only way to get data on your PSP effectively is through the USB port on the top of
the device. Of course, you could use a Memory Stick reader connected to your computer, but
the USB cable is much, much easier.

Increase your ipod/iphone battery life

2008-09-04T04:33:00.000-07:00

Here's some tips to get the most out of your battery. That's assuming that you have a good battery. I

Turn It Off: Hold down the Play button for a few seconds until the iPod turns off. Then use the lock button to keep it off until you want to use it again.

Kill the Clock: Prevent the clock from running by never setting it. This is tricky because when the clock is connected to your computer it automatically sets itself. So reset the iPod just before you disconnect it from your computer. To reset, press and hold "Menu" and "Play" until the Apple logo appears (5-10 sec.).

General Battery Tips: Charging your iPod more frequently is NOT bad. The type of batteries used in the iPod, Lithium-Ion Polyme, do NOT develop what is known as "memory effect". According to Sony, the manufacturer, this battery should be charged to its fullest when new, and should be charged as often as possible during the lifetime of the battery. The problem with this new battery starts when you let its charge drain to less than half. The specs for this battery describe a guaranteed battery life of 500 cycles, but each cycle equals a 50% drain from full charge. Sony does not recommend letting this battery completely drain before recharging it.

How to rename your iPod

2008-09-04T04:08:00.001-07:00

Want to change the name of your iPod? The first time you ran the iPod Setup Assistant, you were asked to name your iPod. But many people are so excited to use their new iPod that they blow right past this step. So what should you do if you want to change the name of your iPod?

Renaming your iPod is actually a very simple procedure (we get tons of emails every month asking us how to do this). Here's a list of step-by-step instructions on how to rename your iPod:

HOW TO RENAME YOUR iPOD

Turn on your computer and open the iTunes application
Connect your iPod to your computer. Wait until you see your iPod appear in the iTunes Source list. In this example, my 60GB Video iPod is just called "iPod". That's boring. Let's change it.

3. Double click on your iPod's name. The iPod's name should now be highlighted and editable

4. Type a new name. Press Enter. This name is still boring, but at least you get the idea right?

Skipping Music on iPod

2008-09-04T04:00:00.000-07:00

When your music sounds bad or skips during playback, here's what to look for:

1) You may have a bad pair of headphones. I ruined a pair last year when I accidentally left my iPod on while inside my backpack. I think the volume was turned on full blast and blew out the headphones after playing until the iPod's battery ran out. After that, all my music sounded like crap. But when I hooked up a new pair of headphones, everything on my iPod sounded fine.

2) Also check under SETTINGS for the EQ function. You may have a weird setting like TREBBLE BOOST on. This would make all your music sound like AM radio. Change it here on your iPod: Settings > EQ (adjust to your liking)

3) Music glitches, pauses and skips on your iPod probably mean one thing: a fragmented hard drive. Do you have a disk utility program? Try a program like Norton Systemworks (PC) or Disk Warrior (Mac) and run it on your iPod, as if it were an external drive. You may also need to erase the music on your iPod and start fresh.

4) If you have problems with music skipping on your computer, you should run the same defrag programs mentioned above on the hard drive that contains all your iTunes music. If you are still getting music glitches in iTunes, the file may have gotten messed up during import.

When you import CDs into iTunes make sure:

You have enough hard drive space on your computer.
If you have a slow computer and/or not a lot or RAM, quit all other programs (besides iTunes) during the import process.

When I imported a few CDs on an old slow computer, I got lots of bad quality audio files. The skips and glitches in your songs may be your computer choking during the import.

The other reason for skipping tracks could be some form of copy protection. Read the fine print on the back of the CD cover and on the disc itself. Some additional information about copy protection issues may be provided.

5) If you defragmented your iPod and are still having issues with the audio, you can try to restore the iPod to the factory settings or erase it.

6) The iPod's skip protection works best with compressed audio files. This allows multiple songs to fit into iPod's 32 MB memory cache. If your audio files are large, or are uncompressed (such as songs in AIFF or WAV format), you may want to compress them, and use the MP3 or AAC compressors when importing new songs. Just put the original CD back in your computer and change your import settings in iTunes. Import the music. Then delete the bad music off your iPod and copy the newly imported music onto it. Also, if you are having problems with high bitrate MP3s, convert the files to AAC files at either 160 or 128.

7) Your iPod may be suffering from a bad sector issue. You can try putting your iPod into diagnostic mode and scan the hard drive for bad blocks. If you find some bad blocks, try running a a full read/write test. This will remap what bad sectors it can and erase all the data on your iPod.

8) If nothing listed here works, you may also hear a loud irregular clicking or spinning noise. That's the sad song of a bad hard drive. Your only real option now is to send it out to get fixed or replaced. Try our VIP Repair Service. Well if you do have to send it in to get fixed, you might want to upgrade the hard drive size while you are at it

Undelete 2009

2008-09-04T03:14:00.000-07:00

Diskeeper Corporation’s Undelete 2009 replaces a computer’s recycle bin with a “Recovery Bin” that captures all data including digital photos and files commonly missed by the Windows recycle bin. It even recovers earlier “saved over” versions of Microsoft files. You can “View Versions” and preview files before recovery to help find the right one. It’s far easier and faster than going to back up. All of your data is protected in real time.
InvisiTasking processing technology performs Undelete’s operations with zero overhead to ensure no performance hit. SecureDelete 2.0 an electronic data shredder, does ensure that selected confidential files and file remnants are permanently erased and unrecoverable. Emergency Undelete recovers files deleted before installing Undelete 2009.

Download Link : http://consumer.diskeeper.com/downloads/Downloads.aspx?RId=&SId=2&CId=&Aeid=&Apid

Replacing Your Battery and Other Power Concern

2008-09-03T08:55:00.000-07:00

With a little luck, your most pressing power concerns these
days are reducing your carbon shoe size and hoping that they
don’t re-form Power Station. If you’re experiencing additional
power troubles—for example, with regards to your iPod—
perhaps this chapter can be of service.
Whenever the words iPod and power come up in the
same sentence, Brandon immediately thinks of the battery.
Replacing iPod batteries is one of the most common repairs
that his company Synctogo.com makes, because, over time,
the battery is the component most likely to fail.
As far as repairs go, replacing the battery isn’t especially
technical. In fact, for most iPods, it’s probably the easiest,
Occasionally, the battery isn’t the source of your power
trouble. We conclude this chapter with suggestions and
advice for dealing wi
Check the Signs of a Bad Battery
What makes a battery go bad? A troubled home environment? Actually, it’s
not so sad a story. Your battery goes bad naturally just from regular use. It has
a lifetime of about a year to a year and a half, or about 500 full-charge cycles.
After that, it starts to show its age.
The most common sign that your battery is ready to be replaced is that it
doesn’t hold a charge for as long as it once did. You find yourself plugging in
your iPod more regularly, and the battery seems to get depleted more quickly.
Another sure sign is that the low-battery warning appears constantly on your
iPod’s liquid crystal display (LCD). Whether you get an icon or a warning
screen depends on your model of iPod..
You might also find that your iPod works fine when you plug it into a charger,
but that it dies immediately when you attempt to run it from the battery. In this
case, your battery isn’t just dying; it’s dead. Time for a replacement.th non-battery power concerns.

Open Your-Generation iPod Nano

2008-09-03T08:40:00.000-07:00

Open a Second-Generation iPod Nano
To open a second-generation iPod nano:
1. This step is optional, so feel free to skip it. With your hair dryer or heat gun, heat the
top and bottom pieces of the iPod nano until they are fairly warm to the touch. As with
the iPod mini, you want to soften up the adhesive that holds the plastic, not deform the
plastic or melt it.
2. Carefully pry off the plastic pieces on the top and bottom of the iPod nano by wedging
your plastic tool or flat-headed screwdriver between the metal shell and the plastic pieces.
3. At the top of the iPod nano, you see two small screws, one on each side .
With your Phillips-head screwdriver, remove both screws.

4. At the bottom of the iPod nano, you see two more small screws . With
your Phillips-head screwdriver, remove those as well.

5. Pull out the audio jack, but don’t pull it all the way out, because it is attached by a
ribbon cable . Handle both the jack and the cable carefully.

6. Under the audio jack, you find another screw that was previously hidden. Take out this
screw as well
7. Take out the small metal bracket that surrounds the docking port by prying it gently
with your plastic tool or flat-headed screwdriver

8. Disconnect the audio jack from the logic board. (This step can be a little sketchy,
because you can’t completely see what you’re doing.) To do this, take your plastic
tool or flat-headed screwdriver, and carefully pull the audio-jack connector toward
the front of the iPod until the connector comes unplugged .
However, do not remove the audio jack from the iPod, as it is still connected to
the Click Wheel.

9. Very carefully take your plastic tool or flat-headed screwdriver, and push the logic
board through the casing . Note that the Click Wheel and audio jack
remain inside the casing.

open your iPod Mini

2008-09-03T08:28:00.000-07:00

Open Your iPod Mini
To open a first- or second-generation iPod mini:
1. This step is optional, so feel free to skip it. With your hair dryer or heat gun, heat the
top and bottom pieces of the iPod mini until they are fairly warm to the touch. Your goal
here is to soften up the adhesive behind the plastic. You do not want to deform the
plastic or melt it.
2. Carefully pry off the white plastic pieces on the top and bottom of the iPod mini. To do
this, wedge your plastic tool or flat-headed screwdriver between the metal shell and
the white plastic pieces.
3. At the top of the iPod mini, you see two small screws: one on each side.
With your Phillips-head screwdriver, remove both screws.

4. At the bottom of the iPod mini, you see a small piece of metal. You need to remove
it, but don’t worry. It should come out easily enough. The piece of metal is springclipped
in place. Dislodge the two clips; a screwdriver works better here than your

plastic tool. Then pry out the piece of metal with your plastic tool or flat-headed
screwdriver

5. Behind the piece of metal, you see the button of the Click Wheel.
Gently—for the love of Janis, gently—unplug the Click Wheel
connector .
6. Carefully push from the bottom, and slide the insides of the iPod
mini out through the top as you hum “Within
You Without You” from Sgt. Pepper.

Open Your Third or Fourth Generation iPod

2008-09-03T07:42:00.000-07:00

Open Your Third- or Fourth-Generation
iPod or Your iPod Photo
To open a third- or fourth-generation iPod or an iPod photo:
1. Turn the iPod on its side, and measure about two inches from the bottom.
2. Take your plastic tool or flat-headed screwdriver, and carefully but firmly
wedge it between the plastic front and the metal back at the position you
located in step 1.
3. Use the plastic tool or the flat-headed screwdriver as a lever to crack open
the case.
4. Carefully slide the plastic tool or the flat-headed screwdriver down the side of the
iPod to release all the clips that hold it together.
5. Begin to remove the back from the iPod, but don’t take it all the way off just yet. As
soon as you can, unplug the audio jack (see Figure 3-4). Do this before completely
taking off the back. If you don’t, you can damage your iPod. To unplug the audio jack,
try using your fingers, or pry the audio jack with your opening tool if the jack won’t
budge. The audio cable attached to the jack is delicate, so easy does it.

7. With the audio jack unplugged, take the back the rest of the way off.
Open Your iPod Video
To open your fifth-generation iPod:
1. Turn the iPod on its side, and measure about two inches from the bottom of the unit.
2. Take your plastic tool or flat-headed screwdriver, and carefully but firmly
wedge it between the plastic front and the metal back at the position you
located in step 1.
3. Use the plastic tool or the flat-headed screwdriver as a lever to crack open
the case.
4. Carefully slide the plastic tool or the flat-headed screwdriver down the side of the
iPod to release all the clips that hold it together.
5. Gently pick up the back, but don’t take it all the way off just yet. Notice that
there are two ribbon cables connecting the back to the logic board of the iPod
6. Unplug the cables from the logic
board one at a time .
The connectors are held with a clip.
Release the clip, and pull the cables
out. Be very gentle with the cables;
they can tear rather easily.
7. With the cables unplugged, take
the back the rest of the way off

Open Your iPod First Generation

2008-09-03T07:35:00.000-07:00

Open Your iPod
Some iPods love to pop right open, while some just want to stay closed, but
patience rewards all practitioners. Keep at it, and don’t get too frustrated;
anyone can open any iPod. (The same holds true as dating advice.) We talk
about the iPod mini and the iPod nano later in this chapter.
Open Your First- or Second-Generation iPod
To open a first- or second-generation iPod:
1. Turn the iPod on its side, and measure about two inches from the bottom.
2. Take your plastic tool or flat-headed screwdriver, and carefully but firmly wedge it
between the plastic front and the metal back at the position you located in step 1.
If you have problems, you might try running your tool along the crack and gradually
working it in.
3. Use the plastic tool or the flat-headed screwdriver as a lever to crack open the case

4. Carefully slide the plastic tool or the flat-headed screwdriver down the side of the iPod
to release all the clips that hold it together

5. Carefully remove the back from the
iPod

Handle a Frozen Apple Logo

2008-09-03T07:26:00.000-07:00

Normally, when you turn on your iPod, the Apple logo appears for a couple
of seconds before the iPod loads to the main menu. Occasionally, the iPod gets
stuck on this logo.
If this happens to you, put the iPod into Disk Mode through the diagnostic
menu. Then connect the iPod to your computer and update or restore the iPod.
Sometimes you can get away with just updating the iPod, so try that first, but
usually you have to restore the iPod, too. As before, make backups of your
music files, because the restore procedure will obliterate them.

Low Battery and Use iTunes to restore Screen

2008-09-03T07:22:00.000-07:00

Check the Signs of a Low Battery
When John Lennon’s energy was on the wane, he wrote tunes like “I’m So
Tired” for the Beatles. Your iPod shows icons, screens, and symbols instead.
Nine times out of ten, you can solve all battery issues simply by plugging in,
just like Dylan did at the Newport Folk Festival. Occasionally, the battery itself
is bad, but now we’re getting ahead of ourselves. If your iPod is experiencing
power issues, this section gives you a place to start.

Interpret the Low-Battery
Warning Screen
The low-battery warning screen is
the new version of the low-battery icon. It displays
on all the newer iPods—the ones with a color
display, that is—when the iPod’s charge is low.

Interpret the Use iTunes To Restore Screen
“Connect to your computer. Use iTunes to restore.” Ever come across this
screen? It appears when your iPod is experiencing certain kinds of software
issues. Not all iPods show this warning. You see it on fifth-generation iPods
with software version 1.1.2 or later, first-generation iPod nanos with software
version 1.2 or later, and all second-generation iPod nanos.
At the risk of stating the obvious, when you see this screen, you need to restore
your iPod. Restoring the iPod means wiping the disk drive completely clean and
reloading the original factory settings. It’s the iPod equivalent of a total system
restore on your computer. You complete this procedure through the iTunes
software, not through your iPod’s diagnostic menu.
To start, simply connect your iPod to your computer and follow the prompts.
On a Mac, you see a message in iTunes that says, “The software on the iPod ‘My
iPod’ is damaged and needs to be repaired before it can be used with iTunes.
Would you like to repair your iPod software now?” Click OK to proceed.
On a Windows PC, a message pops up that says, “iPod Not Readable. This iPod
needs to be reformatted for use on your PC. Click on the Update button below
to run the application that
will allow you to reformat or restore your iPod.” Just click update proceed.

Decipher the Diagnostic Menu

2008-09-03T06:35:00.000-07:00

The diagnostic menu is all about choices, choices,
choices, and when you see them, you might feel like
you’re looking at hieroglyphics. Not all iPods offer the exact
same diagnostic options, so if you don’t see some of
these in the menu, don’t sweat it too much.
To use the diagnostic menu, navigate the options
with the Forward and Back buttons, and press the
Select button to select an option.

OPTION FUNCTION
5 In 1 - Performs multiple tests, including memory, backlight, and the Universal
Serial Bus (USB) ports

Reset - Resets the iPod
Key - Checks the keys on the Click Wheel; press a key, and the iPod tells you
whether your keypress registered

Chgr Curr - Uncertain, but it appears to turn the charging methods on and off
Remote - Tests the functionality of the remote control; be sure to plug in the remote
before running this test
Hp Status - Checks the state of the hold switch and tells you if there is anything
plugged into the audio jack
Sleep - Puts the iPod to sleep
Batt A2D - Checks the iPod’s power supply
Firewire - Checks the FireWire chip
HDD R/W - Checks that the hard drive can read and write; returns HDD Pass if it can
Smrt Dat - Performs another hard drive test
HDD Scan - Scans the hard drive; returns HDD Pass or HDD Fail, depending on the
results of the scan
Read SN - Reads the iPod’s serial number
Diskmode - Puts the iPod into Disk Mode
Wheel - Returns different values when you run your thumb around the Click
Wheel
Contrast - Checks the contrast of the LCD
Audio - Displays the audio gain
Status - Tells you if you have anything plugged into your iPod
Drv Temp - Displays the temperature of the hard drive
Iram Test - Test the iPod’s flash memory

Interpret the Sad Face
When you’re in a bad mood, you probably flash a
sad face. Your iPod does the same.
Its sad face usually appears when there is some
sort of hardware issue. For instance, you might
see the sad face after you drop your iPod, throw it
at someone, or handle it too roughly.
If you’re getting the sad face, check your warranty before you do anything else.
You should try to get your iPod serviced or replaced under warranty whenever
possible. Keep in mind that your warranty won’t cover you if Apple determines
that you abused your iPod, which is as good a reason as any to treat your
property with care.
If your iPod is still under warranty, go with that option. If your warranty has
expired, or if you voided the warranty yourself by abusing your iPod, read on.
First, bring up the diagnostic menu as described in “Use the Diagnostic Menu”
earlier in this chapter. Scroll down to the HDD Scan option and press the Select
button to select it. The iPod scans the hard drive, which can take a while to finish.
When the scan is complete, your iPod returns either HDD Scan Pass or HDD
Scan Fail. A failing grade here means that the hard drive is most likely the
source of the problem. The good news is that this is something you can fix
yourself. We talk about replacing your iPod’s hard drive in Chapter 6. The bad
news is that you might lose some data, especially if you don’t have backup
copies of your music files somewhere, like on your computer. You do keep
backup copies, right?

Interpret the Folder Icon
Occasionally, the iPod’s folder icon means the same thing as
the sad face—namely, a hardware issue—but more often it means that your
iPod is having a software issue. Perhaps your iPod’s operating system is not
functioning fully or your hard drive is not completely connecting. The chances
are pretty good that you can fix your iPod with a minimum of fuss, although
you might end up having to replace some parts.
When you see the folder icon, try resetting the iPod. Hold down the Menu and
Play buttons (first-, second-, and third-generation iPods) or the Menu and Select
buttons (fourth- and fifth-generation iPods, the iPod photo, iPod mini, and iPod
nano), and wait about eight seconds. If the folder icon goes away after the iPod
restarts, consider the problem solved.
If you’re still getting the folder icon, connect the iPod to your computer and try
to restore the iPod using iTunes. (See “Troubleshoot Other Problems” later in
this chapter for valuable tips about restoring.)
If that doesn’t clear up the problem, you might want to check the hard drive
connection. To do this, you need to crack open the iPod’s case (see Chapter 3 for
details). Once you’ve opened your iPod, disconnect the hard drive connector
from the logic board and then plug it back in. Normally, this fix resets the hard
drive. It can get the iPod working again—sometimes temporarily, sometimes for
the long haul—but you shouldn’t attempt it until you’re more familiar with the
procedures.

Diagnosing your Ipod

2008-09-03T05:48:00.000-07:00

Technology breaks, and humans get frustrated. Sometimes
you don’t know where to start. Sometimes you don’t want to
know. You just want your stuff to work like it ought to.
Diagnosing your iPod can be a pain, because it isn’t always
an easy or straightforward task. The meanings of the warning
icons and screens might not make a whole lot of sense when
they appear and interrupt your tunes. Plus, depending on the
circumstances, the same icon might mean different things,
from hardware issues to software issues. Who wouldn’t get
frustrated?

The diagnostic menu presents a battery of technical tests to run when your
iPod is on the fritz. It’s invaluable in helping you figure out what’s wrong with
your iPod, and it’s often the first stop on the road to recovery. In this section, we
show you how to access the diagnostic menu and navigate its options.

Access the Diagnostic Menu on an Older iPod
To access the diagnostic menu on a first-generation, second-generation, or thirdgeneration
iPod:
1. Reset your iPod by holding down the Menu and Play buttons simultaneously ( see 2 in red color)
. Don’t be too impatient! You need to hold the buttons
for five to eight seconds.
2. After the iPod shuts down, it should turn back on almost immediately. Once you see
the Apple logo appear on the liquid crystal display (LCD), hold down the Forward,
Back, and Select buttons simultaneously (see 3 in red color ) until the backwards Apple
logo appears. The third-generation iPod makes an audible chirp when you access the
diagnostic menu.
3. The next screen asks you to press Play to continue. Press the Play button. You can
now select options from the diagnostic menu.

Access the Diagnostic Menu on a Newer iPod
To access the diagnostic menu on a fourth- or fifth-generation iPod, an iPod
photo, an iPod mini, or an iPod nano:
1. Reset your iPod by holding down the Menu and Select buttons simultaneously
(see 4 in red color). You need to hold down the buttons for about eight seconds.

2. After the iPod shuts down, it should turn back on almost immediately. Once you see
the Apple logo on the LCD, hold down the Back and Select buttons simultaneously
(see 5 in red color) until the backwards Apple logo appears. You should also hear an
audible chirp.
3. The next screen asks you to press Play to continue. Press the Play button. You can
now select options from the diagnostic menu. If you have an iPod video, press the
Menu button to run the tests manually, or press the Previous button to auto-test the
iPod. To see the diagnostic menu, press Menu.

First and Second Generation iPod Nano

2008-09-03T05:39:00.000-07:00

The first-generation iPod nano came in three models—1 GB, 2 GB, and 4 GB—
and two colors: white with a grey Click Wheel and black.
The first-generation iPod nano incorporates the same style Click Wheel as the
previous iPod mini models. On the bottom of the unit, you find the docking
port plus the audio jack . Not everyone is happy with Apple
for putting the audio jack on the bottom, because it isn’t the most convenient
place for a headphone connection, although it makes better sense for certain
kinds of carrying cases and accessories.
The first-generation iPod nano discontinued iPod’s four-year tradition of
FireWire support. USB is now the sole method of connecting the iPod nano to
other devices. You can charge your nano’s battery via FireWire, but you get a
pop-up window that informs you that you can’t make a data connection.

The second generation iPod Nano

The second-generation iPod nano appeared in September 2006 in a spectrum of
colors and storage capacities. The 2-GB model came in silver; the 4-GB model
came in silver, green, blue, pink, and red; and the 8-GB model came in black and
red.
Like the first-generation iPod nano, the docking port and audio jack are both
on the bottom of the unit , and USB 2.0 is the sole method
of connection.

Identify Your iPod Mini

2008-09-03T05:17:00.000-07:00

Identify Your iPod Mini
“From a marketing point of view, you don’t introduce new products in August.”
That’s what Andrew Card, the first Chief of Staff of President George W. Bush,
said to the New York Times when asked why the Bush administration waited
until September 2002 to sound the alarm against a grave and gathering threat.
True to Mr. Card’s insight, Apple brought out the iPod mini not in August, but in
February 2004.
The iPod mini is smaller, thinner, and lighter than the already small, thin,
and light iPod. Its storage capacity rivals that of first-generation iPods,
although the iPod mini uses a Microdrive for its internal hard drive.

The marketplace saw two generations of iPod minis before the iPod nano
knocked it into obsolescence.

First Generation iPod Mini
The first-generation iPod mini with its 4-GB Microdrive came in five different
colors: pink, green, gold, silver, and blue (see Figure 1-11). On the bottom of
the iPod mini, you’ll find a docking port, which works just like the one on the
iPod proper.
Unlike all the other previously released iPods, the storage capacity of the iPod
mini is not stamped on the back of the unit .
The LCD of the iPod mini is in monochrome and is backlit. The iPod mini can
connect and charge through FireWire and USB.

Sencon Generation iPod Mini

The iPod mini entered the second generation in February 2005 with 4-GB and
6-GB models. These look almost identical to the first generation, but there are a
few tell-tale differences. First, the storage capacity of a second-generation iPod
mini appears on the back of the unit . Second, the markings on
the second-generation iPod mini’s Click Wheel match the color of the casing

The docking port is on the bottom of the unit, and the monochrome LCD
is backlit. You connect the iPod mini to other devices through FireWire
or USB 2.0.

Fifth Generation iPod

2008-09-03T05:15:00.000-07:00

The fifth-generation iPod, also known as the iPod video, the iPod with video,
and the iPod 5G, appeared in October 2005 in 30-GB and 60-GB models. It’s the
first iPod to support digital video as well as digital photos and digital audio.
Identifying a fifth-generation iPod is pretty easy. Perhaps most notably, the big,
2.5-inch display on this generation of iPod is a dead giveaway .
It comes in either a black or white case with a grey Click Wheel. Just like previous
generations, there is a docking port on the bottom.

Fourth Generation iPOD (ipod photo and color)

2008-09-03T05:11:00.000-07:00

The iPod photo with its full-color LCD and capacity for storing and displaying
digital photos first appeared in October 2004 as a separate product alongside
the standard fourth-generation monochrome iPod. Eventually—in June 2005,
to be exact—Apple stopped making the iPod monochrome and dropped photo
from the name of the newer product. From that point on, what had once been
the iPod photo was now simply the iPod.
With the notable exception of the color LCD, the iPod photo looks identical
to the fourth-generation monochrome iPod, right down to the docking port
. Despite appearances, though, the internal parts of the iPod
photo are not compatible with those of a fourth-generation monochrome iPod.
The storage capacities of the internal hard drive were different, too, with 20-GB,
30-GB, 40-GB, and 60-GB models. On a performance note, audiophiles tend to
point to the iPod photo as being the best sounding of all the iPods.

Fourth Generation iPOD (monochrome)

2008-09-03T05:05:00.000-07:00

July 2004 saw the release of the fourthgeneration
iPod in 20-GB and 40-GB models.
This iPod sported a Click Wheel instead of
buttons , which it borrowed
from the iPod mini, as you’ll see a bit later
in this chapter. The Play/Pause, Menu, Forward, and Reverse functions all
appear on the grey-colored disc that sits atop mechanical buttons.
The fourth-generation iPod includes the docking port from the third generation,
and it expands its support of USB beyond syncing. You can fully connect a
fourth-generation iPod to another device for recharge as well as data transfer by
FireWire or USB. The fourth generation also saw the release of the Apple iPod
from HP, or iPod + hp, as it’s sometimes called, which lasted about a year in the
marketplace.
The LCD of a fourth-generation iPod displays in monochrome and is
backlit. The issue gets a little stickier, however, with the introduction of the
iPod photo, as you’ll see momentarily. To distinguish the original fourthgeneration
iPod from the iPod photo, you sometimes hear the unofficial
name “iPod monochrome” to refer specifically to the fourth-generation
monochrome model.

Third Generation iPOD

2008-09-03T04:59:00.000-07:00

The third-generation iPod came out in
April 2003 and eventually appeared in five
different versions: 10 GB, 15 GB, 20 GB,
30 GB, and 40 GB.
The four buttons, as well as the scroll pad,
are completely touch-sensitive on this
iPod—no more mechanical controls. The
configuration of the buttons is different
here, too. They appear in a row in the
middle of the iPod between the LCD
and the scroll pad, and they light up
The third-generation iPod is the first to have a docking port on the bottom
. This port enables you to connect the iPod to a docking station
for charging or for hooking up to a sound system.

The LCD of the third-generation iPod is in monochrome, but it is backlit, which
makes the display easier to read in the dark or under bright light.
This iPod is also FireWire-based, and you need
to charge its battery through a FireWire cable,
but you can sync (as in synchronize) the iPod
to a computer through Universal Serial Bus
(USB). Syncing means updating your iPod
to match your iTunes playlists or your entire
library. It’s basically about connecting your
iPod to your computer and loading music.

Second generation iPOD

2008-09-03T04:46:00.000-07:00

The second-generation iPod came
out in July 2002 in 10-GB and 20-GB
models. This iPod looks very much
like the first-generation model, but
it has some key differences. Perhaps
most importantly, the scroll wheel on
the second-generation iPod does not
physically move; rather, it is touchsensitive.
(All subsequent generations
of iPods include this feature.) The
control buttons, however, are still
mechanical. Play/Pause, Menu,
Forward, and Reverse appear
around the touch wheel in a similar
configuration to the first-generation
iPod .
Like the first-generation iPod, the
second-generation iPod connects to
other devices exclusively through
its FireWire port, which you find on

the top of the unit. Unlike the first-generation iPod, the FireWire port here sports
a protective cover

As for the LCD of the second-generation
iPod, it’s in monochrome and is
not backlit.

First Generation Ipod

2008-09-03T04:06:00.000-07:00

As we already mentioned, the firstgeneration
iPod appeared in October
2001. It came in 5-gigabyte (GB) and
10-GB models.
One of the quickest and easiest ways to
tell if you have a first-generation iPod
is to look at the scroll wheel. On the
first-generation iPod, the scroll wheel
is mechanical—it physically moves
. No other iPod has this
feature. The control buttons—Play/
Pause, Menu, Forward, and Reverse—
are also mechanical, and they all appear
around the scroll wheel.
The first-generation iPod connects to
computers and other devices through a
FireWire port, which you find at the top
of the unit. Unlike later
models, the first-generation iPod connects
exclusively through FireWire. It does not
support any other type of data connection.

Identify Your iPod

2008-09-03T03:58:00.000-07:00

October 23, 2001, is one for the history books. It was a Tuesday. On that day,
after decades of armed resistance, the Provisional Irish Republican Army of
Northern Ireland—the PIRA—announced that its members would put their
guns to the ground, that they could not shoot them anymore, as Bob Dylan
might have described it. (Perhaps it was getting too dark to see.) On One Life
to Live, Nora further alienated Sam when he overheard her tell Troy that she
wanted him; she meant as a doctor, but Sam assumed otherwise. And Apple
released its very first iPod.
The PIRA has since ended its armed campaign. Troy was marked for murder,
but Sam was accidentally killed in his place, and Nora was able to get on
with her life, while the iPod has become one of the most successful consumer
electronic devices ever manufactured.
The iPod has been through four or five generations, depending on how you
count them (not unlike a soap opera, come to thik of it)

What Kind of iPOD Do I have

2008-09-03T03:54:00.000-07:00

The red one? The silver one? Does it really matter?
Actually, yes. Not so much because of the color, but because
of what’s inside. The iPod has been around since 2001, and
already there have been multiple generations of products
leveraging the power of all kinds of different (and sometimes
competing) technologies. Today’s iPod might work more or
less the same as the classic original did, but what makes
each individual generation of iPod work is surprisingly
different when you get down to it.
As with anything high-tech, the closer you look, the more
complicated it gets. Before you can attempt to fix your iPod,
you need to know exactly what you’re fixing. The parts and
even the techniques that you use often change depending
upon the model.

Chikka Messanger

2008-09-02T11:57:00.000-07:00

Chikka Asia, Inc. is a wireless application service provider, better known for creating the world’s first instant messenger to fully integrate mobile features via SMS, the “Chikka Messenger.” The Chikka Messenger has 38 million registered users, including mobile subscribers from network operators worldwide. It is interoperable with Google Talk

to Download and register :

www.chikka.com

Y ! Multi Messanger

2008-09-02T11:38:00.000-07:00

Y! Multi Messenger is an ideal "invention" for people who have multiple Yahoo pseudo names that they use to interact with different sets of people. As the usual Yahoo Messenger does not allow more than one log-in at a time, Y! Multi Messenger has been specifically devised to enable users to run multiple instances of Yahoo Messenger on their computer, and to be simultaneously logged in on all of them. Installation of Y! Multi Messenger is easy and snappy. You just have to double-click the desktop icon to load any number of Yahoo! Messengers … as many as you want!
ProsBesides a variety of innovative fun features, like every new Instant Messaging service that comes out, Y! Multi Messenger can be used very efficiently as a web conferencing tool to engage in fruitful e-conversations with multiple contacts; a convenient business device, indeed. This innovative free utility also allows users to accommodate many Instant Messenger windows onto one single computer screen. Those of you who have multiple Instant Messenger identities would very well understand the dilemma of being logged in on either one or the other. Y! Multi Messenger provides an effective solution for you to merge work and pleasure, to be part of a professional network while being around for nears-and-dears.
ConsY! Multi Messenger versions coincide with the Yahoo Messenger versions and are build-specific. This means that you must be using the same version of each to make the utility work properly. Also, as Y! Multi Messenger is intended for the newest versions of Yahoo Messenger, it may not work properly on lower builds. Moreover, you should remember to uncheck the "Automatically Sign In" option on your login screens, otherwise you will be getting the famous message saying, "You have been logged out as you were logged in on a different machine".
ConclusionY! Multi Messenger is a smart utility that easily installs and acts as a communication force-multiplier. In our present times, Instant Messaging is becoming more and more of a critical communication tool for both professional and intimate interactions. Y! Multi Messenger is, hence, a must-have for people who, due to time constraints, need to multi-task.

download link : http://files3.download3000.com/download/88113705180042a139488d9c208b5dc4/137/21461/Y!MultiMessengerv8.zip

iTunes 7.6.0.29

2008-09-02T11:29:00.000-07:00

"The best digital music jukebox. Download music, TV shows, movies, and more."Brothersoft Editor/ iTunes JukeboxTurn your CDs into digital files by importing them into iTunes. Then organize your collection including iTunes Store purchases into playlists. Since all your music and video lives on your Mac or PC, you can browse and play with a click even flip through your album art.iTunes StoreImagine an entertainment superstore open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. One that delivers anything you want, instantly. Shop the iTunes Store for music, movies, TV shows, iPod games, audiobooks, free podcasts, and more. And you can give as good as you get with iTunes gifts.also itune 7.4.12 freewareiTunes SyncingThe moment you connect to your Mac or PC, iTunes syncs music and more. You can even sync iTunes Store purchases from your iPhone or iPod back to your computer. And thanks to wireless syncing with Apple TV, your iTunes library plays on your widescreen TV, too.

Download Link : http://www.brothersoft.com/d.php?soft_id=66443&url=http%3A%2F%2Fappldnld.apple.com.edgesuite.net%2Fcontent.info.apple.com%2FiTunes7%2FWin%2F061-3986.20080115.mBvyG%2FiTunesSetup.exe

PC Over Clocking Part 5. Step by Step

2008-09-02T07:21:00.000-07:00

1.Turn off the computer, remove the case from the system unit, and open the manual supplied with your motherboard.
2.Make sure that you follow all safety rules, which need to be observed when performing any tasks with the case open. There is a danger of static electricity. Therefore, it is wise to touch the case before you begin. Better yet, keep one hand on the case at all times while working. Try not to allow any foreign items, especially metallic ones, to touch the adapters. If anything does get inside, remove it immediately. Be sure of everything you are doing, but be careful and accurate.
3.Carefully read all of the basic characteristics of the processor from what is labeled on it. It makes sense to record this data.
4.Consult your motherboard manual to find out which jumpers control the multiplier, the bus frequency and the core voltage supplied to the processor.
5.Check to see if the jumpers are set according to the motherboard manual. Figure out the exact values of the multiplier, the host bus speed and the core voltage. Record this information as well.
6.Now consider how you are going to intensify the cooling of your processor. This is extremely important.
7.Consider how you are going to overclock the processor, what settings you are going to change, and by how much, etc.
8.Follow the instructions provided in the documentation to change the bus speed and/or the multiplier.
9.Check to see if all the jumpers are set correctly according to the instructions provided in the manual.
10.Turn the computer on.
11.If POST completes successfully and you see the boot-up screen with the BIOS information, skip steps 12 and 13, and go on to step 14.
12.If the computer doesn't boot, your CPU doesn't seem to be able to be overclocked to the speed that you are trying to set. Turn it off and try to increase the voltage supplied to the processor (if possible). Before tweaking the voltage, consult your motherboard manual.
13.Turn the computer on. If BIOS doesn't boot, you should abandon attempts to overclock your CPU to the frequency you are trying to set. Try more conservative settings for the multiplier and host bus frequency.
14.Go to BIOS Setup and, if necessary, change the appropriate settings.
15.Reboot the computer and allow the operating system to complete the boot process. If your operating system starts successfully, start testing your system's reliability at the increased frequency. It is recommended that you use various tests, such as WinStone, WinBench, BAPCo Suite, and any other tests available to you. The more tests you run the better.
16.If the system doesn't crash and everything runs normally, you have successfully overclocked your system.
17.If your system crashes, return to 12-16 steps.
18.General recommendations: Don't raise the voltage supplied to the processor except for the cases when it is absolutely necessary, since this increases CPU temperature. Cooling is the most important thing, one that you should never forget about, especially when overclocking.
19.To conclude this chapter, it should be mentioned that Windows 9x may become unstable after overclocking, while DOS and Windows 3.x may remain reliable. This is due to the more stringent hardware requirements imposed by Windows 9x. Thus, Windows 9x can itself be considered as a kind of test. If the computer doesn't pass this test, this means the system is unstable.

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